Headset Bearing issue - Canyon Ultimate 2013 CF SLX Pro

kierenmckenna
kierenmckenna Posts: 4
edited March 2017 in Workshop
Sadly I have damaged my seat stay on my Canyon (only bought 2 weeks ago) by the rear derailleur bolt snapping and the derailleur hitting the frame.
Spoke with carbon bike repair in leatherhead who can fix it for £190 + Vat which includes just a basic paint job
Any opinions on these guys - they seemed very reasonable.
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/ were much cheaper but I would have to post the frame and I thought support the local tradesmen
They said just to drop off the frame so asked my local bike expert if he would strip and rebuild for me. As he was taking the forks apart he rang me to say I had a problem with the bearings.

The top bearing is stuck inside the frame and bottom race stuck on the forks.

Covered in gunk
169q049.jpg

Cleaned
2n24ocj.jpg

Top bearing
67pr9s.jpg

Anyone had this and any advice on how to remove them without damaging the frame?

Comments

  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    I assume you bought it 2nd hand? You may have just discovered why the previous owner sold it on......
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • look565wong
    look565wong Posts: 301
    Hi Kieren,

    Looking at the pictures (limited details :-/) I assume this is the "older" style of the Canyon CF frames rather than the current design?

    I had a 2013 Canyon CF SLX Ultimate, it had a taper fork (1.1/2 - 1.1/4), your fork seems to have a straight steerer tube 1.1/4 inch?
    Anyway, it doesn't really matter.

    In image 2, your alloy bearing race sits nicely on the steerer tube, if you want to take it off, you'll need a "race extracting tool" to get it out properly, you can't just "pop" it out just like that. It's meant to be tight & secure on the tube.

    In image 3, you said the "bearing is stuck", as far as I can see, it's seems only the "bearing sleeve or cup" thats there, am I missing something?
    If as you say, the bearing is stuck inside, then again you'll need a proper bearing tapping tool (or some home brew ones) to tap out the bearing.

    It's strange, you local bike expert (I assume you talking about a LBS with proper mechanics & tools) would be able to sort theses issues out with-out much drama??????

    Hope you get your issues sorted & get the bike back on the road ASAP.

    Cheers
  • bbrap
    bbrap Posts: 610
    If the proper removal tools are not available you could try the following.

    The crown race which is stuck on the steerer can be sliced very carefully with a dremel with a small cutting disc. Do not cut all the way through, just put a slot across the width of the race. This will weaken it enough so that a flat bladed screwdriver can be inserted and twisted to break it away.
    Similarly the top race in the head tube can be cut into (very carefully) but not directly across (no clearance), cut obliquely at a 45 degree angle until the race has been sufficiently weakened to prise it out.

    This is not something to be undertaken if you are at all doubtful in your engineering skills, i.e. most bike shops won't even attempt it.
    Good luck.
    Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
    Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
    Van Raam 'O' Pair
    Land Rover (really nasty weather :lol: )
  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484
    What the pictures show is the headset bearing has split apart. The part on the steerer (pic 2) isn't a crown race, it's half of the bearing. Both halves should be easy to removed as they'll only be held in by corrosion. Wd-40, a screw driver or long punch and a light hammer should sort it. If you have a vice, I'd try using that (gently) on the bearing that's stuck on the steerer and give it a twist/pull.