1x10 chainline crank help

oldieoldie

Hey guys

I converted my 2009 rockhopper to 1x10. I put the nw ring where the middle one was previously. The crank was a triple.

Chainline is 50mm. I did loads of research before going ahead with this. Anyway the parts I used are as follows.

Slx shadow medium cage derailleur
XT shifter
Kmc 93 chain
Slx cassette
38t superstar nw ring.


When in the lowest four gears the noise is pretty bad. On the higher gears it's perfect. Shifts ok in all gears just a bit rough in the big four sprockets.

I thought shifting/noise problems were common when using a 42t sprocket.

The only thing I think it could be is me using the 38t chainring.

Anyway attached are some pictures showing bad chainline.

I can't space the chainring because of how close it is to the frame. See picture. 2-3mm gap.

Do I need a new single specific crank or a smaller chainring? Would a one up radr cure my problems?



Chainline pretty good here.


Notice the bad chainline in top sprocket.

supersonic

Mine is the same - noisy in the lower gears, albeit I am only running a 34t ring and 11-32 cassette. Wasn't noisy with a non NW ring, so concluded it is the ring with the taller, profiled teeth. Others have reported similar, I think it is just one of those things with this type of ring.

cycleclinic

Can you move the crank in by removing a bb spacer.

kirby700

Mine did at first too. Fairly quiet now. You could always pack the chain ring using washers. I converted a double sram gxp chainset and had to use washers to pack it inboard as the chain line was horrific.

oldieoldie

The crank is a basic octalink Shimano alivio with a sealed bb 118mm. No spacers.

Can't move the chainring because of the gap between the frame and chainring. Look at the picture. Only way I see it is if get a smaller 32t chainring and I should have a few extra mm. The trouble is I use this for commuting only and need the higher gears.

oldieoldie

I think I may have to accept that this is part and parcel of 1x10. . The picture shows the kink in the chain where the chain leaves the largest sprocket. I think it will definitely wear out components quick like this. I do use the lower gear as I have a massive Hill on my commute.

Others I have asked said with a standard 11-36 cassette it shouldn't be as bad as I have it.

FishFish

If it is only for commuting then do you need an nw chainring? I don't know if the derailleur is type 2 - with a clutch - but if it is then this would / might give you sufficient chain security to overcome the need for an nw ring. Worth a go maybe.

...on the other hand the obvious tautology is - well then why did they invent nw ring profiles!

My experience is same as supersonics but did find that as things settled down after a 100 miles or so that the noise / friction reduced. I had similar chain line issues as you did albeit with the option of moving bb spacers but I never bothered and am ok.

The Rookie

Once the chain wears just a little and is more flexible it will quieten down, I have 3 bikes running 1x and all are a little noisier on a new chain, NW rings do make it a little bit (not much) worse.

oldieoldie

Shimano RD-M670 SLX 10-Speed Shadow Rear Derailleur. That is the derailleur I have.

I could possibly try my standard ring I took off.

I will probably try the above. Only.concern for me is premature wear as per the photos the chain takes a weird angle/kink when it's in the upper most sprocket.

ade555

I had 11-34 and now 11-42 cassette and you can notice noise from NW chainring, if you look closely when you spin your crank the wider teeths making that noise, as you can't move that chainring any closer you have 2 choice's, put up with it or get smaller NW and actually use the middle of cassette.

oldieoldie

Cheers for the help guys. May just let it be for a while and see how it goes.