Exactly how "careful" do I need to be with a road bike; ie how "fragile" are the
bungle73
Posts: 758
If you've seen my other threads you'll know that I'm thinking of getting my first road bike.
Today I went on one of the routes that I might like to ride it on; NCN 1 from where I live to the next town. The thing is that while most of this on paved country roads, there is a shortish section which is off-road along some gravelly farm tracks. These are quite rough and has some seriously large depressions. Now on the hardtail MTB (but slicked up on skinnies) I road today I didn't really think twice about just riding straight over them, but I'm guessing on a road bike that I'd have to proceed with extreme caution, or even avoid that route altogether? That's possible, it would just mean taking a diversion along some other roads.
Today I went on one of the routes that I might like to ride it on; NCN 1 from where I live to the next town. The thing is that while most of this on paved country roads, there is a shortish section which is off-road along some gravelly farm tracks. These are quite rough and has some seriously large depressions. Now on the hardtail MTB (but slicked up on skinnies) I road today I didn't really think twice about just riding straight over them, but I'm guessing on a road bike that I'd have to proceed with extreme caution, or even avoid that route altogether? That's possible, it would just mean taking a diversion along some other roads.
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oxoman wrote:You may be better with a cx bike if it's to rough, like a road bike but bigger tyres more clearance etc.
The one I'm looking at does have clearance for up to 32mm tyres.
Being part of the National Cycle Network it is supposed to be a cycle route.0 -
I wouldn't worry about the bike (have you seen the conditions they race on for the French/Belgium classics?) but you would have to be careful with tyre choice as you might end up cutting your tyres up if they're not designed for gravel, or puncturing them. If you were to hit a stone or a hole at high speed you could end up damaging a rim/wheel which would be problematic.0
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I'd go for the road bike with the detour. It's like a different sport riding a road bike, if you are like me your mountain bike will be consigned to proper mountain biking.
As for being careful, I think road bikes are sturdier than they look (they have to be with our roads)...thou I'd still take the detour!0 -
If the bike will take 32mm tyres you should be able to ride that short section with care.0
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I was going to mention that video, very impressive.
Personally my old Dawes "sports bike" as they were called in my youth went over most of a bridleway over the forest of Bowland. Hardtop fell path or something like that. A mix of gravel, hard pack, potholes, concrete track with lots of large holes, etc. It coped well as did my dad's ancient Italian steed dating from possibly the 60s. His bike was on 23 clinchers, mine was on 23 or 25 I think. This was about 30 years ago when people didn't have as much hangups over what road bikes could do.0 -
jrich wrote:I wouldn't worry about the bike (have you seen the conditions they race on for the French/Belgium classics?) but you would have to be careful with tyre choice as you might end up cutting your tyres up if they're not designed for gravel, or puncturing them. If you were to hit a stone or a hole at high speed you could end up damaging a rim/wheel which would be problematic.
They've got a few videos about taking a road bike off-road. And one where one of the guys does a long gravel ride on one (the others are on gravel bikes). It looked like a bone shaking ride, but the bike didn't fall apart.Bluemoon17 wrote:0 -
Your road bike will take it, more about the rider suffering or getting punctures - skinny tyres and big stones are probably the biggest risk as they'll likely throw your steering off. I've ridden the full-length Paris Roubaix a few times, ridden down some local farm tracks composed entirely of fist-sized, flint lumps or practised for L'Eroica by riding forestry trails.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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You,'ll be fine with a road bike as long as you don't get it wet, or feed it after midnight.0
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Have a look at this LVRC race - off-road starts at about 3 min Omloop Van Der Drie Dorpen. Good idea to get a frame that will take 28mm tyres. A cyclocross bike could be a good idea.0
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Bikes & wheels incredibly robust. Done lots of off road stuff as you describe with 23mm Conti Grand Prix on Ksyrium and Shamal wheels. No probs. Simply keep you eyes open, adjust speed for the conditions and be prepared to get your bum off the saddle0
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Garry H wrote:You,'ll be fine with a road bike as long as you don't get it wet, or feed it after midnight.
LOL!Barbarossa wrote:Have a look at this LVRC race - off-road starts at about 3 min Omloop Van Der Drie Dorpen. Good idea to get a frame that will take 28mm tyres. A cyclocross bike could be a good idea.
Looks pretty rough, and some of it is quite similar to what I was riding on the other day.Hdow wrote:and be prepared to get your bum off the saddle
Already used to that with having no rear suspension on my MTB.0 -
I was out today on my diverge on a three hour on and off road loop. It handles the byways and bridleways fine but not as well as a proper mountain bike. The upside is the road bits are fast and smooth compared to a mountain bike. Did a quick lap of a forestry area as well.
The bike is great for longer distances and exploring new trails but not so good for the really rough stuff. My mountain bike is an xc hardtail.0 -
Road bike on a short section of farm track will be fine. Just don't hammer through it - the bike will take it.
Everyone and his dog are using wiser tyres. I've done trails on my 23mm tyres - no prob in the dry - just didn't go fast.
Unless you're intending on lots of trails You don't need a cx or any other type of bike - just a road bike.0 -
I actually took the new road bike along the tracks I was talking about today. It wasn't too bad actually. A bit shaky but nothing major.
I might stick with the detour for one of the sections though, as it ends (or starts depending on which way I'm travelling) in a not particular pleasant way near a traveller site, with the usual detritus strewn about. The road route might be quicker anyway, despite being longer, because I can travel faster.0 -
Just look at the pave sections in northern european road racing and you'll see how strong road bikes are, even light ones.2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)0 -
I have found that my arse and writs are more fragile than any road bike I have ridden, if your body can handle the terrain so can the bike.
the tires however are a world unto there own 25mm rubber no likey jagged rocks
this is all assuming you have a sub £2k bike ..... from what I have read on here, if you spend more than £2k on a bike it only gets ridden on the most perfect of days, so I guess they are really fragile as rain and dust renders them useless0 -
My first road bike was a Carlton ProAm with 531 tubing. At the end of my first season racing I rode it in the Three Peaks Cyclo cross, it stood up well. It went on to be my winter bike for several years after that before I gave it away.0
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I grew up on a farm and had a succession of road bikes (racing bikes, or 10-speed racers as we called them then) and never had any bother. Only the first ¼ of a mile of any ride was over a bumpy path, the rest was roads. I still ride a decent road bike the 50 miles there occasionally and then do the last bit up the path, with no issues. Like others say, watch out for punctures, but you should be okay with it.0
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It in part depends how heavy you are.
If you're as big as me, you'll kill a fair few no matter how you ride them....0