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1x10 conversion

LowebeeLowebee Posts: 15
edited April 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Morning everyone!
Im looking to convert my 2x10 to a 1x10. The cassette is 11-36T with a shadow plus rear mech, with 38-26T upfront. My question is what size N/W chainring should i change to? I never change out of my 26T upfront as ive been trying to ride as though as i was riding a 1x before making the change and i was thinkin of getting a 30T N/W from superstar components. How much would this change the ratios? (Ratios confuse the balls off me)




  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,904
    Ratio calculator.

    If you never get out of granny ring I suggest the smallest ring you can get away with.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    30-34 I would say try in between this range.

    I converted my bike to 1x10 back in march and ended up with a 34 up front and 11-36 cassette as I was using the middle chain ring all the time as the front mech decided to not work anymore.

    If you never change from the 26t you must live in a hilly area?
  • LowebeeLowebee Posts: 15
    Yea tbh its kinda hilly where i live and i probably dont ride as fast as some people :) im tempted to get a 30T and give it a go but just keep the front derailleur on the bike and move it up and out the way. That way if i dont get on with it there wont b much sodding around to get the setup bk to wat it was originally
  • i made the change recently

    I went from 3 x 8 to 1 x 10

    I went for a 32t at the front

    11 - 36 at the back with a shimano zee shadow with clutch

    what a difference, the first time I went out, I struggled since I had only ever used my granny ring being a a total unfit moron.
  • mark~pmark~p Posts: 52
    Having been through 3 x 10, 2 x 10, 1 x 10 and now 1 x 11, all I can say is that they all have some form of compromise.
    3 x 10 gives you the low and high ends so the steep climbs are fine as are the roads. The downside is all the changing around to maintain chain line and not busting it, particularly on the change from middle to low at the front. This always seems to be the point at which the chain jumps and you end up with it jammed behind the chainring and frame. The next step is 2 x 10 initially with a 40/28 at the front and an 11 to 26 at the back. Changing was much better but there was too much compromise at the low end. I then tried a 40/24 at the front. I got the range back but was finicky on changes so a abandoned it and was fed up with all the problems with front changes so enter the 1 x 10. This was began life as a 32 narrow-wide at the front with an 11-36 at the back, but then with an e-thirteen expander. This was OK but never really slick so I added the 16t in the middle of the cassette. This helped a bit but the the lack of top end was really noticeable. When that cassette wore out I put on a Praxis 11-40. This improved the changing not end but was in reality still far to much of a comprise at at either end. Recently I then replaced this all for the XT M8000 11 speed, adding the One-Up 50 tooth ring. This allowed me to fit a 36 narrow-wide at the front giving a gear range that is only missing the two highest ratios compared to the 3 x 10. This, in my opinion is the first proper single ring setup that is a replacement for the triple front rings. There is a lot of baloney about single rings and how you just need to get fitter. I cycle a lot and with the riding I do, it is simply not enjoyable having a 36 or 38 front ring and then finding the climbs impossible. Many times you will come across riders, completely whacked, either stopped or pushing their bike because they simply do not have a low enough gear.
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