Upgrading Forks - compatibility issues

randy_baton
randy_baton Posts: 18
edited April 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

I've started upgrading the front end of my bike. Its a hard tail Rockhopper sl2010 comp,I can't find an official spec but theres one on gumtree here (http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/mountain-bike-specialized-rockhopper-comp-2010-white-19-frame-for-sale-450).

I'm going fully rigid, but had hopped to be able to quickly swap in my old suspension forks should the need arise and I was planning to continue use my old disc brakes (Avid Juicy 3 SL).

My new forks are kinesis maxlight xlt (http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Forks/Mountain-Bike/XLT

I've run into a few issues though.

Headset compatibility

This is the headset I'm currently running (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-wcs-drop-in-headset-2014/rp-prod112210). I think the upper part looks like it will fit okay but the bottom bearing has a tapered inner race and my new fork doesn't.

Old fork tapered bearing race run
IMG_3066_zpskmomci5a.jpg

Headset bottom bearing
IMG_3072_zpstq4y1ac3.jpg
IMG_3073_zpsb4lr6hrn.jpg

New fork (nothing for the inner race to run against)
IMG_3069_zpsbqxukxi5.jpg

It looks like I need a something to go onto of my new forks but I'm not sure what its called. The tapered race on my old forks has a little gap at the back that looks like it could be used to leaver it off the forks. Its stuck pretty hard if that's the case.

Do I need anythingto go top of my new fork, presume I don't just drop the bottom headset bearing on it?

Break compatibility

I think there is no hope with this one....

My current brakes attach to the fork with bolts that run parallel to the wheel. My new fork only has fixings that would screw in perpendicular to the wheel. I thought that maybe I could get away with running longer reservoir bolts but the alignment looks off. Is there any way around this?

IMG_3070_zpsp6shfslo.jpg

The breaks are end of life so needed upgrading at some point, but it means my old forks will be useless to me (unless I fancy changing the breaks every time I want to swap forks!

Thanks for any advice!

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Forks - you need the crown race from the headset on the new forks - the bit that looks tight.

    Brakes - you need an IS to post mount adapter.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    As Cooldad says you need to remove the crown race from the old forks.

    Gently loosen it up with a thin screwdriver, to fit on the new forks I've used a piece of plastic pipe to seat the race before 22mm I think for straight 1 1/8 inch steerer tube.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Or you can tap it down with a hammer and screwdriver, work round so it doesn't tilt and work it down progressively.

    You can see the mark on the new fork where the previous owner removed the crown race!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I would just see if crown races are available separately for the headset - they are for most common ones.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Something like
    http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Ritchey-Crown-R ... _69860.htm

    Disclaimer - I have no idea if that is the actual right one, others may be available/more suitable/cheaper. Purchase at your own risk, no correspondence will be entered into if you c0ck it up.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    He appears to still have the old forks to remove the crown race from......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The Rookie wrote:
    He appears to still have the old forks to remove the crown race from......

    Are you getting senile in your dotage? Swapping crown races is a PITA.
    I'm going fully rigid, but had hopped to be able to quickly swap in my old suspension forks should the need arise
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I don't call it a PITA, maybe with your old fingers it is, but for most people it takes about 2 minutes.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Just admit your error and accept your failings.

    A split race maybe, otherwise it can be. Easier to spend a few £ IMHO.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Both split and non split if you use a smear of lube....

    If he can be sure it's compatible then yes, otherwise it's just a waste of money.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.