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DI2 on a Scott Foil 40

joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
edited October 2017 in Workshop
Hi,

I have picked up a second hand Scott Foil 40 and am wanting to put DI2 on it but need a little help.

First off, does anyone know what sort of bottom bracket the Scott Foil has? I figure it might be worth investing in the tools to look after the bike.

Secondly, the 40 uses a standard shimano crank so has some sort of adapter in the bottom bracket, does anyone know how to take this bit out?

and lastly, will the the di2 cabling around the bottom bracket go around the 'sleeve' that most bottom brackets have?

Thanks all!

Posts

  • They were two types of di2. Internal fit and external fit.

    If you can pick up the the older external groupset, it should be straight forward to put on any frame. Both hoods go to one junction box on the stem then one cable goes down the downtube to another junction box underneath the bottom bracket, from here one cable to goes along the chain stay to the rear derailleur, one cable to the front derailleur and one to the external battery thats mounted just below the bottle cage. You can get Shimano sticky pads that keeps the cable neat.
    "The Prince of Wales is now the King of France" - Calton Kirby
  • DKayDKay Posts: 1,652
    The Foil uses a BB86 press-fit bottom bracket and removing it without damaging it, will require the right tool. Superstar Components sell one for £20, but I don't know how effective it is.

    Also, I think the Foil frames are either mechnical or Di2 specific and you're not able to easily swap between the two. As already said, you could use Di2 with the e-tube cables taped to the outside of the frame, but it won't be very neat. For what it's worth, the cables in my Di2 Foil are able to clear the BB sleeve no problem.
  • joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Thanks for the response guys (particularly confirming the BB size, strange how it takes word of mouth to find out! There was an article on BikeRadar that had it as a BB30 so wasn't sure).


    Having done some research and read thread from other people converting Foil's to Di2 it looks like the main problem is the wire hole to front mech needs to be made slightly bigger, and the cable guide on the underside of the bottom bracket needs to be drilled out to allow the wire to exit there are run along the underside of the chainstay (both of which sounds fairly doable). From these guides it looks like all the tubes round the BB area do have openings to thread the wires through and, as said, the BB area is pretty big so should allow plenty of space for the cables to go around.

    I have bought the internal di2 groupset so ready to get started (when it arrives)! Wish my luck!
  • DKayDKay Posts: 1,652
    Assuming your 40 frame is the same as my Team Issue frame at the BB junction, then yes, all of the tube ends should be open. The second junction box and excess cables can just be stuffed-up into the downtube, leaving just the cables to route over the BB sleeve. I'd advise you to wrap the junction box in some cable-tied sponge or bubble wrap to stop it from knocking around inside the downtube over bumps.
  • joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Did you tape the junction box down at all?

    How did you keep the downtube cables from rattling? I have heard a lot of people using cable ties? Is there access via the headtube once the cable has entered the frame to attach a cable tie or would I have to try and thread the cable + cable tie through the cable entry guide?

    Thanks!
  • schlepcyclingschlepcycling Posts: 1,578
    edited October 2015
    Did you tape the junction box down at all?

    How did you keep the downtube cables from rattling? I have heard a lot of people using cable ties? Is there access via the headtube once the cable has entered the frame to attach a cable tie or would I have to try and thread the cable + cable tie through the cable entry guide?

    Thanks!

    When I cabled mine up the groupset came with some very thin zip tie like things that you attached to the cable so when it was inside the downtube the ends of the cable ties sort of 'gripped' the inside of the downtube and stopped it rattling.

    The trick I used to attach them was to thread the cable through small hole in the downtube near the headtube but before it when all the way in tie a pie of string around the end so that the string is poking out of the hole once you threaded the cable into the down tube. Now you can pull the cable pretty much all the way out via the BB shell and attach a few cable ties then you just use the string to pull the cable back up the downtube and through the hole ready for you to attach it to the junction box under the stem.

    As for getting the bottom bracket out, I had a similar problem as when my frame was delivered the BB was already fitted but I needed to get it out to fit the internal Di2 cables. I used a wide flat bladed screwdriver and very gently tapped out the BB (you only need to do the driveside to do all the cabling) with a mallet. To reinsert the BB just press it in as far as you can and then place something wide and flat against it and again very gently tap it back into place. This worked a treat for me and nearly 2 years down the line my BB is still going strong.
    'Hello to Jason Isaacs'
  • joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Even easier as I don't care about the bb...I need to change it to gxp anyway (Quarq) so will try the screwdriver + hammer technique tonight.

    Thanks for all the help so far.
  • joey54321joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Just a quick update to let you guys know how I am getting on. I received the groupset last night so set to work.

    I have a mix of internal and external wiring with the battery and downtube parts internal. Then I have drilled out the plastic cable guide that goes around the bottom bracket area. Both wires leave the BB here and follow either along the rear stay or round the BB and up the backside of the seat tube to the rear and front mech respectively.

    There is some more work to do, I have ordered a longer cable for the front mech as this route is longer then expected so the cable that come with the kit is unfortunately too short. I've also order some sheaths to keep the cables nice and tidy along the outside of the frame.

    I have to say, so far its been very easy, everything just goes together and works! Love it when that happens.
  • amt27amt27 Posts: 320
    I am about to convert a foil 20 first generation.

    Did you manage to complete this project and how did you get on drilling the frame at the derailleur points?
  • As an Di2 specific Addict Team Issue and Foil Team Issue owner (the first gen Foil), I'm baffled as to why Scott made the hole in the bottom of the seat tube junction so bloody small!

    Trying to wire internal Di2 and pass the etube end thru that tiny blasted hole :twisted:
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