Dead Di2?
I've bought a bunch of Di2 stuff for my TT bike - basically 6770 derailleurs and 9071 shifters plus all the corresponding cables.
I hooked it up on the floor of my living room (i.e. not on the bike) and absolutely nothing happens - no lights, no nothing. I've double checked all connections and ensure that the battery is showing a voltage.
a) should I be able to test it like this?
b) is it dead?
c) what should I do next?
Thanks
Nic
I hooked it up on the floor of my living room (i.e. not on the bike) and absolutely nothing happens - no lights, no nothing. I've double checked all connections and ensure that the battery is showing a voltage.
a) should I be able to test it like this?
b) is it dead?
c) what should I do next?
Thanks
Nic
0
Comments
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saw this on the ww forum...Here is the quote from the dealers manual, page 14:
< About system power reset >
• When the system fails to operate, the system may be recovered by resetting the system power.
• After the battery is removed, about one minute is usually required for the system power to reset.
< SM-BTR1 >
• Remove the battery from the battery mount. After about one minute, install the battery.
< SM-BTR2 >
• Disconnect the plug from SM-BTR2. After about one minute, insert the plug.my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0 -
You might have different versions of the OS on the different components, if you have bought them all separately.
I think you need to plug it into an eTube laptop.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
Probably an obvious answer, but have you made doubly certain the connections into the shifters have made a very positive 'click' sound? It's easy to think you've connected them, but they're not a friction fit, more of a snap fit, you have to give them a bit of a push.0
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Bar Shaker wrote:You might have different versions of the OS on the different components, if you have bought them all separately.
I think you need to plug it into an eTube laptop.
This is the most likley cause as there are differing models of kit.0 -
I think I'm going to need the PC diagnostics kit... I'll try and get to one and report back.
Thanks for suggestions.
Nic0 -
styxd wrote:
I'd suggest send it back and purchase a mechanical groupset instead.
Yup - when the lighting tripped at home, I ripped it out and bought candles and oil lamps instead.....ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
meanredspider wrote:styxd wrote:
I'd suggest send it back and purchase a mechanical groupset instead.
Yup - when the lighting tripped at home, I ripped it out and bought candles and oil lamps instead.....
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styxd wrote:I'd suggest send it back and purchase a mechanical groupset instead.
I love it when the luddites feel the need to comment on a Di2 thread. You get back to your downtube shifters, sunshine and leave us to get on with our kit.
Nic if you get stuck and are near SE Essex, I have a diagnostic unit and can help out in exchange for beer.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
My Di2 diagnostic kit arrived yesterday - took a few minutes to install the software and drivers on the PC.
Updated the battery firmware first, then the rest of the components (just derailleurs needed doing, although I also amended the shift button configuration too). Once I connected it all back up everything worked perfectly, including my remote TT shifters! It's a really nice interface and utterly painless (except perhaps buying the thing!). Now I need to install it all on the bike over the weekend.
<aside>One thing I read about updating firmware - which might be relevant to someone else reading this (it wasn't for me) - is that the battery firmware v2.6.0 shouldn't be used if you have a 6770 (10-speed) front derailleur and a 6870 (11-speed) rear derailleur. More and other info here in this excellent guide: http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-ever ... d-to-know/ </aside>
So thanks for the advice and offers of help all!0 -
nic_77 wrote:My Di2 diagnostic kit arrived yesterday - took a few minutes to install the software and drivers on the PC.
Updated the battery firmware first, then the rest of the components (just derailleurs needed doing, although I also amended the shift button configuration too). Once I connected it all back up everything worked perfectly, including my remote TT shifters! It's a really nice interface and utterly painless (except perhaps buying the thing!). Now I need to install it all on the bike over the weekend.
<aside>One thing I read about updating firmware - which might be relevant to someone else reading this (it wasn't for me) - is that the battery firmware v2.6.0 shouldn't be used if you have a 6770 (10-speed) front derailleur and a 6870 (11-speed) rear derailleur. More and other info here in this excellent guide: http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-ever ... d-to-know/ </aside>
So thanks for the advice and offers of help all!
Glad thats sorted for you, i did my system for the first time just this weekend. Had the Di2 for well over a year and never had it updated. But now its all up to date and reconfigured the buttons (best bit in my opinion) always thought it was a pain the way the shifter were configured, especially the hill climbing satellite shifter, it was all backwards but not now.
Did you use both connector cables at the same time when configuring? I found i was taking them in and out as when needed (didnt always seem clear to me).0 -
So mine was all laid out on the floor which probably made it much easier. That said, I did the battery+mount first by hooking it up alone to the diagnostic device. Then I did the rest all in one go - I had everything else connected up to the loom minus the battery - then I connected the diagnostic box where the battery would have gone. That seemed to do the job for me.0
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I swim with dopings wrote:[Glad thats sorted for you, i did my system for the first time just this weekend. Had the Di2 for well over a year and never had it updated. But now its all up to date and reconfigured the buttons (best bit in my opinion) always thought it was a pain the way the shifter were configured, especially the hill climbing satellite shifter, it was all backwards but not now.
Did you use both connector cables at the same time when configuring? I found i was taking them in and out as when needed (didnt always seem clear to me).
I have set my shifters up in paddle shift mode and really like it. Left is easier, right is harder, paddles are DR and buttons are FR. Probably the same orientation as your climbing buttons.
When upgrading I only use one lead. Battery housing first, on it's own, then everything else through a spare shifter port.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0