Di2 Upgrade
WarlKicken
Posts: 224
Hi all,
I have a ROKH I'm using and looking to upgrade my groupset to Di2 Ultegra. I have the 2013 edition which, annoyingly, doesn't have internal routing.
Can this look good with external routing? Never seen it so I have no idea if it's any different. Does the seat battery mount work still?
Looking to grab it on Ribble but concerned I'll get the wrong bits
Does anyone know anywhere in South West London that would do a good job?
I have a ROKH I'm using and looking to upgrade my groupset to Di2 Ultegra. I have the 2013 edition which, annoyingly, doesn't have internal routing.
Can this look good with external routing? Never seen it so I have no idea if it's any different. Does the seat battery mount work still?
Looking to grab it on Ribble but concerned I'll get the wrong bits
Does anyone know anywhere in South West London that would do a good job?
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Comments
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You can fit Di2 with external cabling to any frame. The adhesive cable covers that stick the cabling to the frame are available in black, white and grey (technically, the grey is a DA-7970 part, but it works fine with the new e-tube cabling). You won't be able to use the internal battery or the short battery mount on frames not designed for Di2, so get the external long mount which attaches to your downtube bottle cage mounts (you can still use a cage there as well). Make sure you get enough cables (6 in all - shifters x 2, downtube, battery, front mech, rear mech) and that the downtube cable is long enough for your frame. Do it yourself, it's absurdly straightforward - there's a training video on the Shimano website which will tell you everything you need to know.0
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964Cup wrote:You can fit Di2 with external cabling to any frame. The adhesive cable covers that stick the cabling to the frame are available in black, white and grey (technically, the grey is a DA-7970 part, but it works fine with the new e-tube cabling). You won't be able to use the internal battery or the short battery mount on frames not designed for Di2, so get the external long mount which attaches to your downtube bottle cage mounts (you can still use a cage there as well). Make sure you get enough cables (6 in all - shifters x 2, downtube, battery, front mech, rear mech) and that the downtube cable is long enough for your frame. Do it yourself, it's absurdly straightforward - there's a training video on the Shimano website which will tell you everything you need to know.
Ah thanks pal. One last thing, the front derailleur, the kits all say braze-on on Merlins site, but I think mine is clip-on0 -
WarlKicken wrote:964Cup wrote:You can fit Di2 with external cabling to any frame. The adhesive cable covers that stick the cabling to the frame are available in black, white and grey (technically, the grey is a DA-7970 part, but it works fine with the new e-tube cabling). You won't be able to use the internal battery or the short battery mount on frames not designed for Di2, so get the external long mount which attaches to your downtube bottle cage mounts (you can still use a cage there as well). Make sure you get enough cables (6 in all - shifters x 2, downtube, battery, front mech, rear mech) and that the downtube cable is long enough for your frame. Do it yourself, it's absurdly straightforward - there's a training video on the Shimano website which will tell you everything you need to know.
Ah thanks pal. One last thing, the front derailleur, the kits all say braze-on on Merlins site, but I think mine is clip-on
Adapters are available. For example (and I have no idea if this is the one you need):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... lsrc=aw.dsRed bikes are the fastest.0 -
To hide the wiring trace out the "Pinarello" on the downtube.0
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The sheaths that run the length of the downtube and the chainstay section to hold the wiring are an ugly bit of kit, and start to peel quite soon. I use 3 small bits of neatly cut black electrical tape to hold them in place instead.
One thing to be wary of is making sure that the rear mech indexing doesn't try to override the limit screw restriction - i.e. can it change fully into the lowest & highest gears without fighting the limit screw. If it's wrong it runs the battery down quite quickly as it's still buzzing away trying to finish the gear change.0 -
CiB wrote:The sheaths that run the length of the downtube and the chainstay section to hold the wiring are an ugly bit of kit, and start to peel quite soon. I use 3 small bits of neatly cut black electrical tape to hold them in place instead.
I've got to mostly disagree - mine have been on the Volagi around 3 years and haven't peeled at all despite using the bike for Scottish Highland commuting. Where I can agree is that electrical tape can be used tactically to blend over colours (like red) where the sheath might look obvious. I was complemented at the Bike Whisperer on the neatness of the job (asked me where I had it done). Clearly it's vital that the frame is spotlessly clean and grease free before you apply the sheath. Alcohol wipes are ideal. For added protection you can add insulating tape at either end of the sheathROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
You can also use a bit of double-sided tape cut to size to beef-up the adhesive on the sheath.0