Replacing old brake callipers on a Raleigh Sun Solo

S0rin

I want to replace the brake callipers on a Raleigh Sun Solo. I think they are the original ones. They say `Raleigh Foreign’ on them, but they also might be Weinmann brakes. I have attached images below.

I was looking at buying 2X Shimano Tiagra 4600 Brake Caliper, but in the description it says “Must be used in conjunction with ST-4600, ST-4603, ST-5700, ST-5703, ST-6700 or ST-7900 STIs for correct leverage ratio”

Is this brake calliper compatible?

pinno

Sounds like marketing bullsh1t from Shimano.

Most, if not all brake calipers will fit. The only consideration is the length of the mounting bolt as many modern cf frames require quite long bolts (and extended nuts) which may be too long for the frame.

Matthewfalle

Agree with Mr P above. He can be wise sometimes.

Bear in mind that if bolts are too long you can always cut them down.

Re the actual brakes - myriad of options around - if you're worried about pull ratios then you can always go for a set of Miche or Tektro - generic, work well, shouldn't have any issues.

And remember that pad changes that cost next to nothing also improve a brakes' performance immeasurably.

Obviously you'll be fitting new cable inners and outers - this will work wonders as well.

Are you going to be replacing the brake levers as well? More modern ones will just be nicer all round and work better - don't have to be STI either - keep the trad look with some of these (or equivalents): http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod13672

rolf_f

Matthewfalle wrote:

Are you going to be replacing the brake levers as well? More modern ones will just be nicer all round and work better - don't have to be STI either - keep the trad look with some of these (or equivalents): http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod13672

This isn't really so. The only real difference is that between traditional levers (those with the cables sprouting out of the hood tops) and 'aero' brake levers where the cables run under the tape. In the case of the latter, the pivot is higher up meaning that you can get much more leverage on the brake lever from the hoods. With the non aero type, really you need to be on the drops to get any serious deceleration.

Infact, the levers you link to are basically the same as those Shimano were making 25 years ago - so not really 'modern' as such - and why not; there was nothing wrong with them then and there isn't anything wrong with them now. But cheap as chips so unless you want a particular finish, trim level (and you can certainly get old ones that look a bit more classy than these) etc for your levers, they are going to be as good as anything you'll likely find second hand and no more pricey.

Monty Dog

Any modern caliper will be a massive improvement. You'll likely need a 57mm 'long drop' caliper and more likely 'nutted' not allen key:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektr ... prod29405/

keef66

I'm not so sure about the long drop. Those calipers have the blocks right at the top of the slots. You need to measure the distance from the mounting hole in the fork crown / rear brake bridge to the brake track to determine whether or not a standard brake caliper will fit.

S0rin

I ordered two Campagnolo Veloce Dual Pivot Brake Calipers which, as the last two comments suggest, are not long enough. I will now order longer ones.

rolf_f

S0rin wrote:

I ordered two Campagnolo Veloce Dual Pivot Brake Calipers which, as the last two comments suggest, are not long enough. I will now order longer ones.

No, keefs comment suggests that they might be fine and I'd tend to agree with that. I'd suggest you stick with the original order and compare them with the originals carefully before fitting. Have you confirmed that the bolt lengths of the new calipers are long enough for your frame?

S0rin

I tried them on the frame, but the brake pads fall short of the rim. In addition, the bolt on the front caliper is too short. I was considering these, but I cannot find the length of the bolt for the front caliper: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-performan ... liper-set/

Monty Dog

I suspect your brakes were held-on with hexagonal nuts (Sun Solo is pretty low rent) that fitted behind the fork rather than a top-hat shaped retainer with internal allen-key fitting as fitted on modern brakes. You can either drill-out the forks and seatstay bridge to accept the allen-key retainer or simply go for the nutted brakes.

defycomp2

Monty Dog wrote:

I suspect your brakes were held-on with hexagonal nuts (Sun Solo is pretty low rent)

I'm now distraught. I loved my Sun Solo (Powder Blue 21 1/2"" frame) 52/42 14-24 5 spd back in 1981! It was such a step up from a 5 spd Raleigh Arena and was the best I could afford with a Sunday paper round. It wasn't replaced until I got a Raleigh Rapide (531 frame 52/42 with a special 13-21 rear block). How I got up hills with a low gear of 42-21 I don't know.

rolf_f

Monty Dog wrote:

I suspect your brakes were held-on with hexagonal nuts (Sun Solo is pretty low rent) that fitted behind the fork rather than a top-hat shaped retainer with internal allen-key fitting as fitted on modern brakes. You can either drill-out the forks and seatstay bridge to accept the allen-key retainer or simply go for the nutted brakes.

Hexagonal nuts never had anything to do with a bike being low rent or not (except during the transition to allen bolts) - I think until the late 80s pretty much all bikes used hexagonal nut fittings (my older bikes are utterly devoid of anything allen bolt related!). And then the allen bolts came along which I think offer no improvement other than looking mildy neater.

The front brake of an allen bolt fitted caliper should fit onto the rear of a bike designed for an allen bolt but you'd still need a longer bolt for the front. Of course, in the old days you could just buy replacement bolts as this sort of thing was pretty much standard fitting but now things have improved to the extent that everything is bespoke.

I suspect Tektro might make new brakes with bolts long enough for hexagonal nuts. But as Monty says, drilling out the forks and bridge is an option and seems to be often taken.

secretsam

My 2p worth: Sun Solo was nothing special, re-badged Raleigh IIRC. Anyway, I dug out some cheap DP brakes with MASSIVE drops on them from Condor - this was a while back, but since they are totally up with the cool retro kids then no doubt they still sell them.

Alternatively, try Spa cycles or the mob in Bath who make Thorns. IIRC Alhonga are a brand for cheap, nutted DP long drop brakes - or you could try some Tektros or maybe Dia-compes.