chain repair

crannman

looking at a recent post on what people carry whwn out on a ride i noticed alot carry spare link and chain splitter can you good folk lead me in the right direction of the use of said tool

chris_bass

I have one on my multi tool, it was just a cheapish one from a household things store (can't remember which, like a low budget B&Q!) whole thing only cost about a tenner and has been great.

drlodge

Don't carry a spare link, carry a "quick link" for which you won't need a chain tool to replace.

arthur_scrimshaw

drlodge wrote:

Don't carry a spare link, carry a "quick link" for which you won't need a chain tool to replace.

That kind of depends how the chain fails. You may need a chain tool to tidy things up before using the quick link.

crannman

just had a look on evans web at quick link and chain tools thanks for swift replies

drlodge

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Don't carry a spare link, carry a "quick link" for which you won't need a chain tool to replace.

That kind of depends how the chain fails. You may need a chain tool to tidy things up before using the quick link.

That is indeed the case, and I do wonder if my Topeak multitool is man enough to push out a pin on an 11 speed chain.

arthur_scrimshaw

crannman wrote:

just had a look on evans web at quick link and chain tools thanks for swift replies

Be aware that some quick links are not reusable if that's important to you. I'm only familiar with 10 speed and only KMC 10 speed quicklinks fall into this category. The SRAM 10 spd quicklinks are power lock and not intended to be reused although I understand some people do!
I always use reusable quick links when fitting a new chain, much easier when it comes to maintenance/cleaning.

slowbike

drlodge wrote:

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Don't carry a spare link, carry a "quick link" for which you won't need a chain tool to replace.

That kind of depends how the chain fails. You may need a chain tool to tidy things up before using the quick link.

That is indeed the case, and I do wonder if my Topeak multitool is man enough to push out a pin on an 11 speed chain.

Mine is on a 10 speed - wouldn't think 11 was that much tougher ...

mulletmaster

The non reusable quicklinks work grand more than once. That's just the manufacturers wanting to sell you a load more of them. I've opened and closed a SRAM 10 speed one a dozen times without issues.

cougie

I'd also test your chain tools before you need them. A couple of the multi tool ones are a bugger to use in real life.
A seperate one is so much easier.

Initialised

crannman wrote:

looking at a recent post on what people carry whwn out on a ride i noticed alot carry spare link and chain splitter can you good folk lead me in the right direction of the use of said tool

This one's never let me down in five years.



To use it: http://www.parktool.com/documents/cec23 ... 86823f.pdf

Hook it onto the chain on the first pair of teeth and turn the handle clockwise to push the pin out, not all the way, just enough that you can disconnect the next link.

To fit do pretty much the same from the other side, then use the second set of teeth from the other side to loosen up the link.

KMC quick links are great if you like waxing your chain as it makes removal really easy, they are reusable but you need pliers to get them off so I take a chain tool when I'm riding.

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

keef66

Good point; I've never had to use my Crank Bros multi tool one in anger. I bent a cheapo Halfords chain tool like a banana when I first tried to split a 10 speed 105 chain. (I now notice they describe it as 7/8/9 speed chain tool!)

drlodge

Initialised wrote:

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

Using the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring for the same gear ratio...I would keep the chain off the small ring unless you need the small ring for the hills.

rolf_f

drlodge wrote:

Initialised wrote:

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

Using the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring for the same gear ratio...I would keep the chain off the small ring unless you need the small ring for the hills.

It's still got to go round the cassette sprockets though and they are generally much smaller than the chainrings so I suspect this isn't going to make any difference whereas Initialiseds suggestion could save you a lot of money and a long walk! Besides, once you've shortened the chain you shouldn't need to worry about it being any weaker than it was originally unless you suspect it has multiple dodgy links. And if that was the case, I'd be going for the low gears all the way to spin my way home.

Bozman

Initialised wrote:

crannman wrote:

looking at a recent post on what people carry whwn out on a ride i noticed alot carry spare link and chain splitter can you good folk lead me in the right direction of the use of said tool

This one's never let me down in five years.



To use it: http://www.parktool.com/documents/cec23 ... 86823f.pdf

Hook it onto the chain on the first pair of teeth and turn the handle clockwise to push the pin out, not all the way, just enough that you can disconnect the next link.

To fit do pretty much the same from the other side, then use the second set of teeth from the other side to loosen up the link.

KMC quick links are great if you like waxing your chain as it makes removal really easy, they are reusable but you need pliers to get them off so I take a chain tool when I'm riding.

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

+1
I was advised by a bike mechanic not to rely on a multitool and to buy the Parktool CT-5.

crannman

thanks for all replies great stuff it all makes sence now

Initialised

drlodge wrote:

Initialised wrote:

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

Using the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring for the same gear ratio...I would keep the chain off the small ring unless you need the small ring for the hills.

[/misinterpretation]

Nothing to do with a weak chain after a repair, if your chain snaps you may need to remove a link or two as they often get twisted so you may end up with too short a chain for big ring, big sprocket.

sungod

couple of kmc missing links + lezyne multitool with a built-in chain tool

never needed to use it 'live' for myself, but i once rescued a stranded triathlope with it

if you use the chain tool to cut new chains to size, you'll know if/how it will work on the road (and as a new chain usually will be a few links too long, you can practice on several pins)

alex222

Have the Parktool CT 5 too. Have only used it at home, but certainly works well and it is small.

adr82

Another vote for the CT5. Haven't had to use it myself yet but worked perfectly when I came across someone who'd snapped their own chain a couple of weeks ago.

Lookyhere

drlodge wrote:

Initialised wrote:

If you have to shorten your chain in an emergency try and stay off the big ring or you might end up cross chaining and snapping it again and possible damaging your derailleurs.

Using the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring for the same gear ratio...I would keep the chain off the small ring unless you need the small ring for the hills.

why is that?

drlodge

Lookyhere wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Using the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring for the same gear ratio...I would keep the chain off the small ring unless you need the small ring for the hills.

why is that?

You mean why is it that the big ring will put less strain on the chain than the small ring?

Its all about torque. Think of it this way - if you had really long cranks, you'd need less force on the pedals but you'd have to move them over a greater distance. Same with the chain - the bigger the chainring the less force is applied but the greater the amount of chain that passes for a single revolution (e.g. 50 links compared to 34 links).

it goes back to the equation: work done = force x distance. More distance (of the chain) implies less force.

I would bet 99.99% of all chain breakages occur when the chain is on the small chainring, since more force can be applied (more leverage).