Aching Wrists

drewesq

Hi all

I am pretty new to road work and, to get started, I bought a second hand Carrera Virtuoso for the princely sum of £120! I am aware this is very much an entry level bike but I wasn't sure if I would enjoy riding a roadie so thought it better to go cheap!

Now, I have been to my local bike shop (not Halfords) and asked them to fit it to me, they flipped the stem and raised the saddle which helped a bit. I have centred the handle bars as they were a bit longer on the right than on the left. The bike shop said I defo didn't need a stem raiser.

Now I have plenty of energy in the tank to go more than 20 miles (and have done) but both my wrists really ache after about 10 miles. I change my hand position regularly and make an effort to use my core to hold the weight of my body but I still get sore wrists

It is a real bummer because I really enjoy the road work but feel like I'll probably not go as often as I would want to because of this problem

I am a shade under 6' and the bike is 54cm

Please help!

Initialised

At 6' a 56cm would likely be a better fit but a 54cm should be adequate.

It's probably a case of getting used to it.

You could try doing wrist curls and rotations so strengthen your wrists and speed up the process.

Dandelionclock30

It sounds to me that theres too much weight on your hands which is to do with the set up.
I'd sell it as I think it doesnt fit you and I'd buy a bike from a shop that has a good reputation with bike fitting. Then you will get somthing comfortable that fits.

sungod

are you leaning on the bars? (don't)

are you wearing padded mitts? (do)

are your wrists straight-ish and relaxed? (typically should be)

drewesq

I didn't say before that I tried to make riding on the hoods more comfortable by angling the bar upwards, but this meant my wrists were no longer straight, this has been rectified, but I'll need to test it out...

I try not to lean on the bars but if I forget I then have to remind myself to sit up a little more! I do wear get padded gloves.

When I say I could buy a new bike it would need to be on finance - I couldn't walk into a shop and put £600 odd quid on my card without a little consideration!

The guy in the shop showed me a Cube bike which was last year's model and it was reduced down to £625 from £700 ish - he said that would be perfect for me, but I can't find that bike online

Sorry - I don't know which model!

JayKosta

The position of the hoods on the bar can make a big difference, but might require re-wrap of the bar tape (a fairly easy DIY job). In addition to moving the hoods forward/backwards, also consider the amount of inward tilt of the hoods. Adjust the tilt so they fit your natural hand/wrist position.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Slo Mo Jones

sungod wrote:

are you leaning on the bars? (don't)

?

If I didn't lean on the bars my head would fall into the steerer.

Try removing both hand from the bars yet keeping your torso in the same position.

mattsccm

I would suggest that a few rides of a couple of hours may help establish if its just not being used to it or size. Stick with it a bit. Having said that a 54cm bike may be a touch small.
Having said that its hard to generalise. Each manufacture is different.
that isn't much of a discount at this time of year. You can do better.

ai_1

Unless you've some existing issue with your wrists I would like think wrist pain is almost certainly due to an uncomfortable hand and forearm position on the bike.

Your wrists should be straight or very close to it whether on the hoods, tops or drops. Since You'll spend most time on the hoods I'd focus on them and initially. The hoods can be moved on the bar ane the bar can be rotated in the stem clamp. Typically you'll want the flat part at the back of the hoods about level and the hoods will be pointing pretty much straight forward but it might be worthplaying around with it a little to see what position gives you a comfortable grip with a straight wrist. Also try not to grip the bars/hoods to tightly.

macp

Ive had this with shoulder pain too.What seems to have solved it is checking seat height and moving the seat forward a few mm also rotating the bars up a few mm too.

arran77

Get yourself a Powerball, I used to do lots of rock climbing and they were great for strengthening the wrist

Slo Mo Jones

cyd190468 wrote:

Move your saddle back. When coasting without pedalling you should be able to let go of the bars without your body position changing. If you need to have weight on your hands your CG is too far forward so move your saddle back. If you CG is behind the BB your weight settles back into the saddle rather than forward onto your hands.

Your centre of gravity is forward of the saddle.

If you move the saddle back, your center of gravity will be further forward relative to the saddle.

This would increase the force through the hands and wrists.

ai_1

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

cyd190468 wrote:

Move your saddle back. When coasting without pedalling you should be able to let go of the bars without your body position changing. If you need to have weight on your hands your CG is too far forward so move your saddle back. If you CG is behind the BB your weight settles back into the saddle rather than forward onto your hands.

Your centre of gravity is forward of the saddle.

If you move the saddle back, your center of gravity will be further forward relative to the saddle.

This would increase the force through the hands and wrists.

The CG will remain forward of the saddle but further aft of the bottom bracket. You'll therefore support more of the rotational moment via the pedals rather than on the bars. However, having said that, I doubt bike fit alone is the issue here. Even with a very forward position with lots of weight on the bars your hands, back and shoulders would likely cause trouble before your wrists. I'd be fairly sure there's something else wrong here. Sit on the bike in normal riding position and have a look at the position of your hands and wrists. If your wrists are angled then that's the root of the problem. Your wrist should be straight so that force is directed straight up your arm. If there is a force that causing your wrist to flex back or forth then you've a setup problem. On the hoods your hands and wrists should be in pretty much the position they would be if you were holding a gun.

Slo Mo Jones

Ai_1 wrote:

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

cyd190468 wrote:

Move your saddle back. When coasting without pedalling you should be able to let go of the bars without your body position changing. If you need to have weight on your hands your CG is too far forward so move your saddle back. If you CG is behind the BB your weight settles back into the saddle rather than forward onto your hands.

Your centre of gravity is forward of the saddle.

If you move the saddle back, your center of gravity will be further forward relative to the saddle.

This would increase the force through the hands and wrists.

The CG will remain forward of the saddle but further aft of the bottom bracket.

Minimally, if at all given that your torso and arms will be angled further forward. And any increase in weight taken by the pedals from the bars will be offset or more than offset by weight taken from the saddle as the centre of gravity moves further forward realtive to the saddle.

ai_1

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

Ai_1 wrote:

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

cyd190468 wrote:

Move your saddle back. When coasting without pedalling you should be able to let go of the bars without your body position changing. If you need to have weight on your hands your CG is too far forward so move your saddle back. If you CG is behind the BB your weight settles back into the saddle rather than forward onto your hands.

Your centre of gravity is forward of the saddle.

If you move the saddle back, your center of gravity will be further forward relative to the saddle.

This would increase the force through the hands and wrists.

The CG will remain forward of the saddle but further aft of the bottom bracket.

Minimally, if at all given that your torso and arms will be angled further forward. And any increase in weight taken by the pedals from the bars will be offset or more than offset by weight taken from the saddle as the centre of gravity moves further forward realtive to the saddle.

I disagree but since it wasn't really the point I was looking to make in the first place, I won't try and convince you.

Slo Mo Jones

cyd190468 wrote:

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

Ai_1 wrote:

Slo Mo Jones wrote:

Your centre of gravity is forward of the saddle.

If you move the saddle back, your center of gravity will be further forward relative to the saddle.

This would increase the force through the hands and wrists.

The CG will remain forward of the saddle but further aft of the bottom bracket.

Minimally, if at all given that your torso and arms will be angled further forward. And any increase in weight taken by the pedals from the bars will be offset or more than offset by weight taken from the saddle as the centre of gravity moves further forward realtive to the saddle.

Try it.

No. It's guff.

simonhead

arran77 wrote:

Get yourself a Powerball, I used to do lots of rock climbing and they were great for strengthening the wrist

This, great things

arran77

steerpike wrote:

Masturbate more frequently, using both hands. Great for keeping wrists toned.

Can't believe it took 4 days for this to be suggested.

Perhaps the fear of the BikeRadar 'Final Solution' is working :shock:

drewesq

Wrists feeling better after adjusting hdles a little, now foot gets pins and needles after an hour!

Thinking about a new bike, this one has good reviews and available near me on 0% interest:

http://www.bikesheduk.com/specialized-allez-2014

Opinions?

Initialised

Stick with what you have for now while your body gets used to regular cycling, the Allez may cost almost twice as much as a Carrera Virtuoso but it's not twice the bike. Save up for something in the £1200-1500 bracket (like the Roubaix SL4 or Tarmac).

drewesq

It seems I got it a bit wrong, my bike is 50cm from crank to seat post :oops:

I have been able to do 40 miles on it now but do feel this is much too small.....!

Now waiting for my 'Dale CAADX Tiagra to be delivered, only I bought a 56cm and worried it might be too big

Do you think I'll get away with it?

Thanks

Mikey23

Back to topic... There are so many posts from new cyclists about wrist/arm/ neck/shoulder/knee/ leg / bottom pains that perhaps there ought to be a sticky. It seems to be a rite of passage that we all have to cope with and deal with

1) body is in a postion that it isnt used to for a fairly long time and it needs to adapt
2) core strength may not be what it needs to be for you to rest lightly on the bars. This will come with experience
3) position of hands on the bike might be wrong. Try different things till it works for you
4) you are out on the roads and you are nervous about being on the bike and in traffic and dealing with potholes. You may be gripping too tight and too tense. You will learn to relax
5) you think you can ride a bike cos you did when you were a kid. You have skills and techniques to learn. Your shiny carbon roady aint like what you rode as a kid
6) you bought it off the internet and its the wrong size for you and set up wrong. You saw a video on the internet about bike fit and now you are an expert. Make contact with your LBS get them to set up your bike for you or recommend a proper bike fit

Any combination of the above and probably quite a few that i havent thought of. OP, i hope that helps...