Downside to removing the GSC10 speed/cadence sensor?
drlodge
Posts: 4,826
I notice I no longer look at my cadence or speed for that matter on my Garmin 800, mainly have it on the map page to navigate the route. Hence I'm thinking of declutering my bike by removing the GSC10 sensor but am wondering if there are downsides to this? Obviously I won't get a cadence readout anymore; I assume all the Strava distance/speed calculations are taken from the GPS signal rather than then speed sensor?
Is there any other downside to not having this sensor?
Is there any other downside to not having this sensor?
WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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Comments
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I think the speed sensor 'fills in the gaps' in areas with poor gps coverage/reception so it doesn't jump about all over the place.0
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Tunnels.....
But I only have the speed sensor on one of my bikes and I never really notice I'm missing anything. The only tunnel I have to worry about anyway is that under the airport runway.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Speed sensor does smooth the gaps on the display but I don't think it affects the data stored - ie I don't believe it corrects incorrect position data from the GPS. It's not in the list of fields in the GPX file downloadable from Garmin or Strava - although I don't know if it is in the FIT file that is uploaded.
If you're not watching your speed whilst riding then it is of no use to you.
If you're not interested in analysing your cadence data during or after the event then you may as well not have the device on there.
My commuting bike doesn't have this sensor on - I sort of miss it, but not enough to worry about spending £25 to fit it. I do like to have the data to hand on both the road bike and the TT bike - TT bike is more important to me as I use the data to feedback to me on how I'm doing (or not!). I could easily do without it on the roadbike but the annoyance factor when you're riding under trees to see your "speed" about 1/2 of what it actually is means I'm keeping it ... for now0 -
Thanks..sums up my thoughts. I don't look at cadence info at all, the only analysis I might do is look at average speed and HR. Think its gonna go from both bikes and put for sale on here.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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i've done exactly the same thing, and don't really need to know my cadence on any rides.0
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I've unpaired my sensor, because it kept messing up recordings e.g. said I was doing 4mph downhill when I was clearly doing somewhat more or kept autopausing when I was doing 20mph.
(I have a separate bike computer that I could compare it with).0 -
For the amount the sensor weighs I can't see the point of removing it.
If you're worried about weight get a better pair of swekers or pedals.
As others have said tunnels could affect speed and distance if they are read for GPS.
I also believe (but am not 100% sure) GPS distance works on the assumption that you are riding on the flat and that is can't take into account hills and descents.0 -
elbowloh wrote:I've unpaired my sensor, because it kept messing up recordings e.g. said I was doing 4mph downhill when I was clearly doing somewhat more or kept autopausing when I was doing 20mph.
(I have a separate bike computer that I could compare it with).
Have you contacted Garmin support about that? I've had two sensors do that and they sent out a warranty replacement both times, free of charge.
To the OP. Another issue is the garmin auto-pausing if climbing under tree cover and the GPS signal is lost. The speed sensor will keep the auto pause from triggering but sometimes without the sensor or magnet on it will pause and un-pause when it finds the signal again. Doesn't really mess the data up but the bleeping can be annoying!0 -
If you're not that fussed about the speed or cadence readings from it, the only downside I can see is not being able to record on the turbo (although speed is fairly meaningless on the turb anyway)0
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I don't have a turbo :-)
And regarding losing some weight off the bike, its not weight I'm looking to lose, just the clutter of this big sensor on my chainstay which hides some of the bare 953 tubing, and magnet on the carbon Super Record crank. Kind of spoils the lines if you know what I mean.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:I don't have a turbo :-)
And regarding losing some weight off the bike, its not weight I'm looking to lose, just the clutter of this big sensor on my chainstay which hides some of the bare 953 tubing, and magnet on the carbon Super Record crank. Kind of spoils the lines if you know what I mean.
you can get some nice magnets from ebay that are slimline - Just replaced those on my TT bike - the crank magnet just sits on the pedal spindle and is pretty much flush. The spoke magnet is flat (for flat spokes) and just glues on - again, barely visable ...
Doesn't get rid of the lump of plastic off the stay though.0 -
Slowbike wrote:Speed sensor does smooth the gaps on the display but I don't think it affects the data stored - ie I don't believe it corrects incorrect position data from the GPS. It's not in the list of fields in the GPX file downloadable from Garmin or Strava - although I don't know if it is in the FIT file that is uploaded.
On the edge the Edge the speed appears to drop and remain at a constant level until GPS fix is reacquired. On the phone (taken with the strava android app) the speed graph draws a straight line starting from the speed at the point the fix was lost which ends at the speed it first computes when coverage is restored. Segment speeds are always computed from GPS data though if thats all you care about.
Like you I don't pay much attention to the cadence data when I'm riding but I do look at it a little more post ride to see how much I've been taking it easy and freewheeling.
Of course if you rarely deal with tunnels its probably not worth worrying about.
Mike0 -
The new sensors from gsrmin are much smaller. No magnets involved. I have two on order for cadence.
I took my magnets off ages ago. The speed data from the gps is more than accurate enough.0 -
Slowbike wrote:you can get some nice magnets from ebay that are slimline - Just replaced those on my TT bike - the crank magnet just sits on the pedal spindle and is pretty much flush. The spoke magnet is flat (for flat spokes) and just glues on - again, barely visable ...
Doesn't get rid of the lump of plastic off the stay though.
I tried the crank magent - however, given my bike is made of steel and the crank goes quite close to the chainstay, the magnet gets pulled off by its own magnetism! I did then get some putty stuff to fix the magnet to the pedal spindle but never did it as I would then struggle to get the pedals off.
Nah, the sensor is going. I have 3 of them, will sell two and probably keep 1 for a bit in case I find problems and want to put it back on the Rourke (which I doubt).WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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mudcovered wrote:Slowbike wrote:Speed sensor does smooth the gaps on the display but I don't think it affects the data stored - ie I don't believe it corrects incorrect position data from the GPS. It's not in the list of fields in the GPX file downloadable from Garmin or Strava - although I don't know if it is in the FIT file that is uploaded.
thanks for that
I don't suppose your tunnels go around corners so you can see if it's just speed it uploads or corrections to the position data ... ?0 -
drlodge wrote:Slowbike wrote:you can get some nice magnets from ebay that are slimline - Just replaced those on my TT bike - the crank magnet just sits on the pedal spindle and is pretty much flush. The spoke magnet is flat (for flat spokes) and just glues on - again, barely visable ...
Doesn't get rid of the lump of plastic off the stay though.
I tried the crank magent - however, given my bike is made of steel and the crank goes quite close to the chainstay, the magnet gets pulled off by its own magnetism! I did then get some putty stuff to fix the magnet to the pedal spindle but never did it as I would then struggle to get the pedals off.
Nah, the sensor is going. I have 3 of them, will sell two and probably keep 1 for a bit in case I find problems and want to put it back on the Rourke (which I doubt).
Don't bother keeping it then - get a power meter for cadence (if you're ever interested in that again) or get the new garmin sensors - the speed one clips around the hub and neither rely on magnets anymore. Apparently it's no good if you're getting "air" though.. ...0 -
£60?!?!?!?!?!
And the blurb says to connect to your Garmin 1000, so wonder if its compatible with the 800/810 series too.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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drlodge wrote:£60?!?!?!?!?!
And the blurb says to connect to your Garmin 1000, so wonder if its compatible with the 800/810 series too.
pah - that's nothing ... that's like a morning coffee for 2 weeks ...
according to DC Rainmaker it is compatible with the 800/810. It is compatible with units that can identify the individual cadence/speed sensors - iirc the Forerunner isn't compatible.
yer ... er ... £60!! but that's for the pack - you only need the speed and a PM system ...0 -
yeh I just found the DC Rainmaker review, interesting.
I did think...sell 3 sensors at £20 a pop which would buy me a new unit. But then why would I want a new unit!?WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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Slowbike wrote:I don't suppose your tunnels go around corners so you can see if it's just speed it uploads or corrections to the position data ... ?
Mike0 -
Thanks Mike. I was thinking about this on the way home - I was wrong - of course speed data is included in the fit file otherwise rollers and turbos wouldn't work ... Doh!0