Using cadence and a HRM

Moominman2

Hey,

I received a cadence sensor and HRM in the post today to use with my garmin edge 500.

I bought them as I was hoping it would help me learn to be consistent throughout my rides and try not to waste energy unnecessarily. .

I have a basic understanding of them both, but am still unsure of what numbers I should be looking at.

I'm 21, and basically looking to last longer on the bike, become stronger and faster.

Any advice would be great.

Thanks,
Luke

Jon_1976

I can't give much advice for the cadence as I stopped using mine a while ago. For the HRM, I like the Garmin to display Heart Rate Zones instead of actual BPM.

This will be useful to read http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/h ... sts-28838/

wavefront

Excellent!

You should first off read some of Joe Friels (or others) blogs about training with heart rate monitors, and start to understand the heart rate training zones that are described.

Understand what LTHR means and do a test to work out what it is. Your zones should be worked out from this threshold, not your max HR which isn't that important to know. From there once you've established your own zones for recovery, endurance, threshold you can adapt your rides to suit.

The one big caveat is the HRM's show your heart rate, which is not always reflective of how much effort you are putting down. Illness, fatigue, heat, etc can effect the numbers so use it sensibly in conjunction with your RPE. Also there is a delay in your heart rate following your exertion. For example, if you sprint for 10 seconds, I'll take a small time for your heart to catch up, by which time you'll be resting!

I found it useful for a general guide to help pace a ride, as well helping with fatigue and tracking fitness over time. I would certainly say I'm a lot more in tune with my body because of using a hrm. The hrm won't help you be consistent and efficient per se, but you'll be able to structure your rides/ training and through improved fitness your efficiency and consistency will improve.

As for cadence, I have some workouts/drills that utilise varying cadences so find it useful to know from time to time. Other times it's just another number on the screen.

Good luck, and have fun!

antsmithmk

If you have a turbo the cadence will be invaluable to ensure your riding on the turbo reflects that out on the road. Going on feel alone on the turbo setting a cadence I feel reflects my road pace, I actually am about 10rpm's slower.

Being able to measure cadence means you can carry out some decent training plans....

maltloaf_df

I have found my cadence sensor to be more valuable than my hrm in improving my cycling technique.

I stick rigidly between 85 and 95 cadence in the winter and tighten it 88 to 92 in the summer. It has made my own style much more efficient understanding the mechanics of my body, the bike and the gearing.

Bobbinogs

maltloaf_df wrote:

...I stick rigidly between 85 and 95 cadence in the winter and tighten it 88 to 92 in the summer...

Blimey, have you thought about looking up from your computer every now and then and enjoying the countryside?

maltloaf_df

It becomes second nature. After a while you know what speed your legs are doing. After a period of getting used to it it's just another bit of info on the screen. That said, I am an information junkie...

sloppyschleckonds

Bobbinogs wrote:

maltloaf_df wrote:

...I stick rigidly between 85 and 95 cadence in the winter and tighten it 88 to 92 in the summer...

Blimey, have you thought about looking up from your computer every now and then and enjoying the countryside?

Cycling is the new golf.

Moominman2

Thanks for the advice everyone and wavefront for that long reply!

I'll check out thst article, and I never realised how important cadence would be on the turbo, so that's great.

So how do I work out what my cadence should be at? And why is it so useful?

Thanks again,
Luke

imposter2.0

Moominman2 wrote:

Thanks for the advice everyone and wavefront for that long reply!

I'll check out thst article, and I never realised how important cadence would be on the turbo, so that's great.

So how do I work out what my cadence should be at? And why is it so useful?

Thanks again,
Luke

Hang on - who says cadence is important? Just pedal at a rate that is comfortable and sustainable.

Initialised

SloppySchleckonds wrote:

Bobbinogs wrote:

maltloaf_df wrote:

...I stick rigidly between 85 and 95 cadence in the winter and tighten it 88 to 92 in the summer...

Blimey, have you thought about looking up from your computer every now and then and enjoying the countryside?

Cycling is the new golf.

Some people just want to ride like Chris Froome http://chrisfroomelookingatstems.tumblr.com/

Seriously though, using a cadence sensor can improve your efficiency. On the flat holding a cadence of 90 RPM is ideal and will become second nature with a bit of practice and if you used to ride at a lower cadence you should find that you are going faster with less effort. For climbing or acceleration a cadence around 70 RPM is preferred.

imposter2.0

Jesus, I give up - cycling is the new golf.

LegendLust

Imposter wrote:

Jesus, I give up - cycling is the new golf.

It wasn't funny the first time

imposter2.0

LegendLust wrote:

Imposter wrote:

Jesus, I give up - cycling is the new golf.

It wasn't funny the first time

I was agreeing, not cracking a joke.

Initialised

Imposter wrote:

Moominman2 wrote:

Thanks for the advice everyone and wavefront for that long reply!

I'll check out thst article, and I never realised how important cadence would be on the turbo, so that's great.

So how do I work out what my cadence should be at? And why is it so useful?

Thanks again,
Luke

Hang on - who says cadence is important? Just pedal at a rate that is comfortable and sustainable.

Science:
http://www.setantacollege.com/wp-conten ... e%20in.pdf
http://run4fun.locaweb.com.br/artigos/C ... n%20in.pdf
https://www.thieme-connect.com/ejournal ... 007-972802
Bear in mind that these studies are published in peer reviewed journals so real science, as close to fact as you can get, not conjecture, fashion or entrenched opinion.

imposter2.0

Initialised wrote:

Imposter wrote:

Moominman2 wrote:

Thanks for the advice everyone and wavefront for that long reply!

I'll check out thst article, and I never realised how important cadence would be on the turbo, so that's great.

So how do I work out what my cadence should be at? And why is it so useful?

Thanks again,
Luke

Hang on - who says cadence is important? Just pedal at a rate that is comfortable and sustainable.

Science:
http://www.setantacollege.com/wp-conten ... e%20in.pdf
http://run4fun.locaweb.com.br/artigos/C ... n%20in.pdf
https://www.thieme-connect.com/ejournal ... 007-972802
Bear in mind that these studies are published in peer reviewed journals so real science, as close to fact as you can get, not conjecture, fashion or entrenched opinion.

Oh right. Have you actually read those studies?? A quick scan of the abstracts suggests they pretty much support the notion that cadence is down to individual preference and varies according to terrain. Anyway, I'm off to play golf....FORE!!!

Sprool

I think Imposter pretty much summed up the 3 reports posted above, inconclusive at the best. Trouble is, as a beginner, how do you know what your cadence is unless you have the right cycle computer fitted? I was new to road bikes 18 months ago and tried to keep a song in my head that I knew was about 80 bpm, then pedal in time to that. (Fat Bottom Girls by Queen, btw.) Not exactly accurate. I was told by a couple of the the elite and arrogant opinionated minority on Bike Radar that cadence wasn't important and why was I trying to measure it, I didn't need to. Well I did cos I wanted to, so eventually got round to buying a new cycle computer with cadence fitted so I could learn the feeling of how fast I was pedalling. This turned out to be a low slower than I thought. The strongest cyclist I rode with regularly always had a faster cadence than me. Over the next few months with training on rollers and rides out with friends, as the fitness rose, I worked on keeping cadence at 85-90, which seems to me to be the best balance of speed and effort for flats and gentle uphills. For steep uphills this drops to 70-75. I found I can cycle faster and further by working on cadence and keeping it within the ranges above. That suits my physique and fitness level but it may be different for you. Get a cycle computer to measure it then learn how different rates feel. After a few months you will know yourself what range works best for you.

ednino

I've found using a HRM has helped alot with sportives & races.
I know 170bpm is easy to keep up for hours and i know i can do a 2 hour race at 185bpm
I also know if i get into 190bpm or beyond that, it won't be long before i have to ease off the pace!

Nick_M

Sprool wrote:

...eventually got round to buying a new cycle computer with cadence fitted so I could learn the feeling of how fast I was pedalling. This turned out to be a low slower than I thought.

This was my experience as well, when I got a sensor I found I was spinning much slowly than I thought I was. Once I had the sensor on the bike I worked on raising my normal cadence to 90 - 95 RPM and find it makes a very useful difference in terms of endurance - I guess because it transfers more work from the leg muscles onto the cardio-vascular system (?). Some people seem to have a natural feel for cadence and are able to hold it accurately without out a sensor. I must have no natural sense of rhythm because I just can't gauge it by feel at all.

diy

I use the HR monitor to work out when I am slacking and when I am over loading. For me anything above 175bpm (resting HR is is high 30s/low 40s) is the point where I am spending more effort breathing than pushing. Normally I'm quicker even over short distances if I can keep it in the high 160s.

Cadence sensor is more use for comparing performance over a given course, where you can see for example that a lower cadence climbing a hill results in a HR drop and speed drop compared to a higher speed.

I wouldn't say I've changed gear as a result, but if I'm "working out" and my HR drops below 160 and my cadence is below 60, I will drop a cog.

What you need to avoid doing though is comparing your data with other peoples. There is so much more "science" to do before you can do that.

ednino

diy wrote:

What you need to avoid doing though is comparing your data with other peoples. There is so much more "science" to do before you can do that.

Agree with this, you can't really compare heart rate to other people. It doesn't work. But its a handy measure to use yourself

Power on the other hand... Watts are the same for everyone

Bar Shaker

Sprool wrote:

I was told by a couple of the the elite and arrogant opinionated minority on Bike Radar that cadence wasn't important and why was I trying to measure it, I didn't need to. Well I did cos I wanted to, so eventually got round to buying a new cycle computer with cadence fitted so I could learn the feeling of how fast I was pedalling. This turned out to be a low slower than I thought. The strongest cyclist I rode with regularly always had a faster cadence than me. Over the next few months with training on rollers and rides out with friends, as the fitness rose, I worked on keeping cadence at 85-90, which seems to me to be the best balance of speed and effort for flats and gentle uphills. For steep uphills this drops to 70-75. I found I can cycle faster and further by working on cadence and keeping it within the ranges above. That suits my physique and fitness level but it may be different for you. Get a cycle computer to measure it then learn how different rates feel. After a few months you will know yourself what range works best for you.

Same here.

Getting my cadence into the 90s made a big difference to my speed and endurance. If my cadence falls much below mid 70s on a climb, I know I will be paying for it later in the ride. It is much better to find that extra effort and keep at 80+ even on steep climbs. You are faster and you arrive at the top in good shape.

My GF also cycles and I have encouraged her to up her cadence. I set up her 800 to show cadence as the main output and really encouraged her to use it. She is also much faster now and has much better endurance.

Some of the benefits will always be down to simple time in the saddle but better cadence monitoring has trickled down from pro level racing and there is no reason why we cannot benefit from it.

High cadence puts the pressure onto your CV system, rather than on your legs. Your heart will recover very quickly from hard exertion, your legs will not.

All of the information is 'just numbers' but it can all be used to good effect.

iPete

Bar Shaker wrote:

Sprool wrote:

I was told by a couple of the the elite and arrogant opinionated minority on Bike Radar that cadence wasn't important and why was I trying to measure it, I didn't need to. Well I did cos I wanted to, so eventually got round to buying a new cycle computer with cadence fitted so I could learn the feeling of how fast I was pedalling. This turned out to be a low slower than I thought. The strongest cyclist I rode with regularly always had a faster cadence than me. Over the next few months with training on rollers and rides out with friends, as the fitness rose, I worked on keeping cadence at 85-90, which seems to me to be the best balance of speed and effort for flats and gentle uphills. For steep uphills this drops to 70-75. I found I can cycle faster and further by working on cadence and keeping it within the ranges above. That suits my physique and fitness level but it may be different for you. Get a cycle computer to measure it then learn how different rates feel. After a few months you will know yourself what range works best for you.

Same here.

Getting my cadence into the 90s made a big difference to my speed and endurance. If my cadence falls much below mid 70s on a climb, I know I will be paying for it later in the ride. It is much better to find that extra effort and keep at 80+ even on steep climbs. You are faster and you arrive at the top in good shape.

My GF also cycles and I have encouraged her to up her cadence. I set up her 800 to show cadence as the main output and really encouraged her to use it. She is also much faster now and has much better endurance.

Some of the benefits will always be down to simple time in the saddle but better cadence monitoring has trickled down from pro level racing and there is no reason why we cannot benefit from it.

High cadence puts the pressure onto your CV system, rather than on your legs. Your heart will recover very quickly from hard exertion, your legs will not.

All of the information is 'just numbers' but it can all be used to good effect.

This again.

I got a meter and found I was riding a low cadence. I've been working on bringing this up and low and behold I can go faster and further now. Of course some people on here would have you believe it doesn't matter and that it's akin to having a handicap or some other poor golf comparison.

ednino

I've actually turned off the cadence display on my 500 because i naturally ride at 90rpm. Never found the need to see my cadence as its always pretty much the same!