Trek 5200 OCLV 120 rebuild/refurb
Just acquired a 2002 vintage Trek 5200 frame and fork in USPS livery (I know it's from the deep dark days of doping but I really don't care).
Planning to rebuild it over the next few months but there are some basic things that need attention and I'm a bit stuck. Looking for some guidance and advice from the combined wisdom of the BR community.
Firstly the headset is pretty well trashed and needs replacing. A bit of searching on Bikepedia has indicated that the original spec used a Cane Creek S2 1 1/8" threadless headset. A quick internet search shows that the S2 can still be found as can it's better quality equivalent , the S6.
However the Cane Creek website has no mention of these models and seems to focus on the newer "10 series" and "40 series" headsets.
Does anyone know if these newer models will be suitable or will I need more info such as the internal diameter of the headtube to be able to order an exact equivalent. Also any other suggestions rather than Cane Creek without spending silly money (£50 tops)
Second problem relates to the downtube cable stops/ adjusters. These are probably still functionally OK but for cosmetic reasons I would like to replace them. They appear to be made from some form of aluminium alloy and are attached to the frame by 3mm domed allen bolts. I have removed these but I cannot get the old stops to move. I am reluctant to get too physical with them bearing in mind the carbon frame.
It looks as though they might be a push fit onto a post which is integrated into the carbon weave of the downtube with the bolts there to hold them in place. Is my supposition correct and if so is it likely that the cable stops have corroded onto that post.
Real problem is - How do I remove them safely so that new ones can be fitted (WD40 soaking? heating? twisting with pliers? )
Planning to rebuild it over the next few months but there are some basic things that need attention and I'm a bit stuck. Looking for some guidance and advice from the combined wisdom of the BR community.
Firstly the headset is pretty well trashed and needs replacing. A bit of searching on Bikepedia has indicated that the original spec used a Cane Creek S2 1 1/8" threadless headset. A quick internet search shows that the S2 can still be found as can it's better quality equivalent , the S6.
However the Cane Creek website has no mention of these models and seems to focus on the newer "10 series" and "40 series" headsets.
Does anyone know if these newer models will be suitable or will I need more info such as the internal diameter of the headtube to be able to order an exact equivalent. Also any other suggestions rather than Cane Creek without spending silly money (£50 tops)
Second problem relates to the downtube cable stops/ adjusters. These are probably still functionally OK but for cosmetic reasons I would like to replace them. They appear to be made from some form of aluminium alloy and are attached to the frame by 3mm domed allen bolts. I have removed these but I cannot get the old stops to move. I am reluctant to get too physical with them bearing in mind the carbon frame.
It looks as though they might be a push fit onto a post which is integrated into the carbon weave of the downtube with the bolts there to hold them in place. Is my supposition correct and if so is it likely that the cable stops have corroded onto that post.
Real problem is - How do I remove them safely so that new ones can be fitted (WD40 soaking? heating? twisting with pliers? )
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Comments
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I don't have any suggestions for you, but I'd like to see what responses you get as I own a 1999 5200 with a trashed headset as well
Although this is probably a bit more extreme than your plans, you might want to have a look at this thread:
Trek 5200 refinish
The bike looks awesome when it's done, but I can't imagine putting that kind of time, effort, and $$$ into such an old bike.0 -
Googling reveals plenty of S6 headsets for sale - if replacing the whole thing, then no problems with interchangeability. Trek sometimes use a proprietary model though.
Try ACF50 if trying to remove corroded alloy - WD40 is simply a light oil and is pretty useless against alloy. You can easily get replacement Shimano downtube cable stops.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
All you need is a 1 1/8" external cup headset of the threadless kind. Yes the Cane Creek S2 will work but there many others. Token make a very good headset and that would be my choice.
Those cable stop will come of. Soak in some plus gas other other decent penetrating fluid. Get a fine blade behind them and lever them of. You will have to use a bit of effort.
Those bikes are lovely well worth sinking some money in to them. Just because it is old does not mean it is not worth it.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Resurrected this thread as I've now reached the next critical phase. Installing the new headset.
Managed to remove the old cups fairly easily with an Icetoolz cup removal tool. Sourced a Cane Creek S6 headset on Fleabay and am now preparing to install this.
The crown race was a straightforward job - just bought some 1 1/4" plastic drain pipe from B&Q and cut a piece to a suitable length then used this to tap home the crown race onto the steerer. Total cost £2.50
Now contemplating pressing home the new headset cups I've cobbled together a pressing device using a 16cm long threaded nut and bolt with two large rectangular heavy-duty plate washers. I've also sourced a blanking plug for some plastic plumbing pipe that is an exact fit for the internal diameter of the cups. I'm hoping that this will do the job of driving home the new cups.
I plan not to be too ambitious and just press one bearing cup at a time.
The main issue is to ensure that the cups are offered up and pressed home without being skewed in any way. I've tried just sitting a cup in place and can see already that there is plenty of scope for the cup to start off at a slight angle. This would be a disaster unless the insertion process was "self - truing" ie despite any errors at the initial set up the orientation of the cup would end up being corrected by the internal bore of the head tube.
Any experience out there on ensuring that the cups are pressed home correctly or will they true themselves as they are pressed fully home?0
