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Gears not right?

Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
edited December 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys,

I've just started riding my MTB again after 4 or 5 months of it being stood. As far as I can remember, when I last rode it in July all was well, but now the gears aren't right.... When I swap from going up the gears to going down again, the first 'click' on the lever does nothing. If I click again, it changes quickly and smoothly. It does eventually catch up again, usually when I get to the top or bottom of the cassette - I click the last click on the lever and it jumps two gears to get to the outer gear on the cassette. Occasionally it'll catch up with itself earlier than that though, if I pedal for a while without changing it'll suddenly jump into the right gear - but not always. This also tends to be worse when changing up the gears (ie, down the cassette), when changing down the gears it works fine about 75% of the time, whereas its always one gear behind when changing up.

Any ideas? (or is she just sulking with me because I've been seeing another bike over the summer?? :wink: )
"I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"

Posts

  • micedenmiceden Posts: 225
    The derailleur adjustment shouldn't have gone out of synch but that's where I'd look first... otherwise its possible your cable has stretched or maybe the spring is starting to go - how olds the derailleur and in what gear did you leave it?
  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    How would I check the derailleur adjustment? The derailleur is about 2 1/2 years old and has done just over 2,000 miles.

    I'm afraid I have no idea what gear I left it in now but my last ride ended with a fairly steep hill so I'd guess it was in a low gear, probably 3rd or 4th biggest gear on the cassette (11-34, 9 speed cassette).

    I did wonder if maybe the cable isn't moving freely, possibly rusted slightly having been stood? Could that cause this problem?
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • 97th choice97th choice Posts: 2,222
    Loads of info in the tech links above. try park tools as it is one of the best websites.

    You need to check and adjust your rear mech. a free running cable is obviously essential and cable issues are normally the cause of shifting problems
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
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  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    Cheers, will try those.

    One thing to add - when changing 'one click' and nothing happens, it isn't even trying to change gear - when I've had cable tension problems before it has made a sound as if the chain is almost moving over, but not quite making it - i'm not getting that - a click on the lever and literally nothing happens...
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,804
    If the problem is moving from largest rear cog to smallest, it could just be a sticky cable or joint on the rear mech.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    If it doesn't index easily, 99% of the time it's cables. Just replace them. Shimano SP41 outer and stainless inners are cheap and excellent.
    Parktools below for indexing.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    Thanks guys - this is the time I wish I had a bike stand.... Christmas can't come soon enough - lets just hope the guy in the big red suit is feeling generous!
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Turn it upside down. Simple.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    cooldad wrote:
    Turn it upside down. Simple.

    Well yeah... but then its not so easy to get to the gear levers...
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,804
    Or just lift the rear wheel off the ground by the saddle......
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • if yo have a garage you should be able to throw toegether a DIY stand.
  • Quite possibly the cable is frayed inside the shifter and getting caught up.
    If not, then it may be gummed up from sitting, or the casing/cables simply need replacing.
  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    desmorrow wrote:
    if yo have a garage you should be able to throw toegether a DIY stand.

    Unfortunately no garage.... :( Bike maintenance is strictly an outdoor activity (or the kitchen if the missus isn't in! :wink: )

    Will check the cables and see if there's anything obviously that can be fixed, failing that, I might replace them. Seems strange it was fine when I stopped riding it in July but after not having moved for a few months its developed a problem - to my logical mind that suggested something has ceased up/stuck having been stood still for a while.
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • Schoie81Schoie81 Posts: 749
    Right, finally think i've worked out where the problem is. The 'ferrule' on the end of the cable sheath where the cable goes into the barrell adjuster on the rear mech has a slight bend in it and seems to be stopping the cable running smoothly through. Can I just replace the ferrule? Or do I need to replace the sheath too? And are ferrules much the same thing, or are there different types?
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yes, and if you mean the cable outer, no, but it may be worthwhile, and yes, but yes as well.
    I would just replace the inners and outers - you normally get ferrules and cable ends included.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
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