Performance Difference in Winter and Summer Bike
Dizeee
Posts: 337
I want to talk about a taboo, the difference in ability between winter and summer bike.
I want to start by stating I agree it is all about the rider and the legs, not necessarily the machine etc. I am also concious of the rules and the need to MTFU e.t.c. However that doesn't change the same thing I find when riding each bike, and that is that the difference between them and how I perform is significant. Most of this comes from climbing ability - where I find the difference so immense it is like I am two totally different riders going uphill on each bike.
My summer bike is CF De Rosa, Campag Athena and Fulcrum Racing Quattros.
My winter bike is or was a Bianchi Ally frame, 105 and Mavik Aksiums.
My strava stats and how I fare in a group is always hampered on the Bianchi. I find the Bianchi "hard work" in general, and certainly when climbing, I find it very tiresome.
I never was even aware of any of this until I bought my De Rosa. Having spent most of the sumer on it, all of this has come out as a result. I can literally fly up little climbs on the De Rosa, or settle in for a long climb, it feels so responsive and like nothing is being lost in transmission. The Bianchi feels heavy and when I am ascending it feels like a fair bit of energy from my legs and feet is just soaked up somewhere and not transferred into movement.
Is this a normal phenomenon?
I want to start by stating I agree it is all about the rider and the legs, not necessarily the machine etc. I am also concious of the rules and the need to MTFU e.t.c. However that doesn't change the same thing I find when riding each bike, and that is that the difference between them and how I perform is significant. Most of this comes from climbing ability - where I find the difference so immense it is like I am two totally different riders going uphill on each bike.
My summer bike is CF De Rosa, Campag Athena and Fulcrum Racing Quattros.
My winter bike is or was a Bianchi Ally frame, 105 and Mavik Aksiums.
My strava stats and how I fare in a group is always hampered on the Bianchi. I find the Bianchi "hard work" in general, and certainly when climbing, I find it very tiresome.
I never was even aware of any of this until I bought my De Rosa. Having spent most of the sumer on it, all of this has come out as a result. I can literally fly up little climbs on the De Rosa, or settle in for a long climb, it feels so responsive and like nothing is being lost in transmission. The Bianchi feels heavy and when I am ascending it feels like a fair bit of energy from my legs and feet is just soaked up somewhere and not transferred into movement.
Is this a normal phenomenon?
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Comments
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In winter mode my bad weather bike weighs about 2.5kg more than my best bike, and if I'm honest I couldn't tell the difference speedwise. That is also true of the 105 and ultegra groupsets on those bikes-feel identical if I'm honest."It never gets easier, you just go faster"0
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Not sure about the bikes but I'd imagine in winter you'll have more layers on, more restrictive.Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/
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I guess it just comes down to how efficient the bike outputs whatever you input to iy if that makes sense, or at least that's how it feels. I am overbiked with my Merak, and when on it can achieve some quite impressive averages and times, and can do well in a group.
I am starting to think that rather than being a half decent rider, I am actually an average rider who is able to look a hell of a lot better on a bike that is just so good.0 -
I have the same problem, but magnified. Summer bike is a Cervelo R3 with di2 and DA C24s. Commuter (and terrible conditions Sunday) bike is a Genesis Croix de Fer with Ultegra and Kinesis CX disc wheels. Firstly, there's the weight difference (5kg in full riding trim) - with a chunk of that in the wheels. Then there's the steel frame - this isn't a whippy racer, it's a clunky tourer/crossbike and you feel it in acceleration. Finally, there's the mudguards (full length, and wide enough for knobblies), which act as an airbrake. It's solid, feels unstoppable, and keeps me dry and clean, but it's not much fun. I keep thinking I'll swap the frame out for a carbon disc frame, and get some carbon-rim disc wheels; then I have to remind myself it's a commuter, and new, and good enough, and so on...0
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I'd say that it's down to - weight, clothing, road conditions and weather, add that lot up and you will be slower.
You have to work a bit harder which isn't going to do you any harm, come spring time when you get back on the summer bike you'll feel like you've got a constant tailwind.0 -
My winter bike is about 2.5 kg heavier than my summer one and you can feel the difference when you ride. Strava tells me that on UK climbs the difference is seconds, it's negligible. Where the bike does seem faster is rolling along on the flat, my average speed is higher. But the perception difference certainly isn't backed up by the stop watch.0
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If you only ride the "winter bike" in winter, and the "summer bike" in summer, the simple difference in weather will make huge difference to performance, aerodynamic drag is highly influenced by air temperature.Jibbering Sports Stuff: http://jibbering.com/sports/0
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I was thinking - and feeling - this today when I was out. It felt like pedalling through treacle. Couldn't decide if it was the extra weight, the wind or the new bottom bracket in need of some miles to loosen up. Roll on the summer…0
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Yes it's a little harder work on the winter bike but I always thought that was part of the point (build up a good fitness base over winter and fly up hills in the summer). My summer bike is also way more expensive than my winter/bad weather bike, so I would expect it to be much lighter, which it is is. That said, I've just come back for a short blast on my single speed crosser and average speed was similar to my geared winter bike, and this with knobbly tyres and and 42 x 18 gearing, but then I do tend to go faster in the darkTitus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0
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Cold air is denser, impeding progress plus you'll consume extra energy overcoming extra layers of clothing plus simply keeping warm - it all conspires to slow you down. Combined with a heavy bike and thicker tyres with higher rolling resistance, best policy for winter is stick to steady miles to develop your CV fitness.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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It isn't cold yet. It's mucky, though, so I'm on my winter bike. I'm much, much slower as a result, but there's over 10lb difference between the two, never mind that one is built for speed and one is built for, well, loads of things, but certainly not speed.0
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My winter bike is 2kg heavier than my summer bike. Don't forget to add the extra weight of your winter gear (you'd be surprised if you weighed it especially when damp). The other slowing factor is restrictiveness of clothing - even good quality winter tights are no match for the freedom of leg movement bibshorts give. Also rolling resistance is higher in winter (wet dirty tyres) and maybe your tyres are a bit heavier duty. It also tends to be windier in winter, adding to ride times.
If you care to make such comparisons (I do) then making your position identical on the two bikes is important, as optimal power output is linked to optimal bike fit.
But in reality the difference in ride times is negligible, except on very hilly routes.0 -
My commuter serves me throughout the year - in the summer it's got 23mm slicks on & no mudguards - in the winter (ie now) I change the tyres & fit the full mudguards ...
perhaps it's also partly my cold - but it's been hard work this week - so much so that I'm having a day off today
It's a little slower than the summer set up, but not by much - and that's a little slower than the best bike - again, not by much, but it all adds up.0 -
As someone who only has one bike and uses it in all conditions/seasons I can say I'm generally slower in winter/autumn so it's not the bike. Wind strength, air density and well.... how you feel make the differences IMHO0
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the_Spooks wrote:As someone who only has one bike and uses it in all conditions/seasons I can say I'm generally slower in winter/autumn so it's not the bike. Wind strength, air density and well.... how you feel make the differences IMHO
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the_Spooks wrote:As someone who only has one bike and uses it in all conditions/seasons I can say I'm generally slower in winter/autumn so it's not just the bike. Wind strength, air density and well.... how you feel make the differences IMHO0
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I've been riding the winter bike for a while now, but the gear cable's snapped and I haven't yet had time to fix it. Last night cos it was dry I went out on the carbon summer bike. I'd forgotten just how light it is and how well it deals with the dodgy road surfaces. Came back with a big grin on my face! Statistics aside, the bike definitely makes a difference to the ride experience.0
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I'm certainly thinking how I can move some lights onto the carbon bike for the odd dry run during the winter commute ... it's just such a different ride.0
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964Cup wrote:I have the same problem, but magnified. Summer bike is a Cervelo R3 with di2 and DA C24s. Commuter (and terrible conditions Sunday) bike is a Genesis Croix de Fer with Ultegra and Kinesis CX disc wheels. Firstly, there's the weight difference (5kg in full riding trim) - with a chunk of that in the wheels. Then there's the steel frame - this isn't a whippy racer, it's a clunky tourer/crossbike and you feel it in acceleration. Finally, there's the mudguards (full length, and wide enough for knobblies), which act as an airbrake. It's solid, feels unstoppable, and keeps me dry and clean, but it's not much fun. I keep thinking I'll swap the frame out for a carbon disc frame, and get some carbon-rim disc wheels; then I have to remind myself it's a commuter, and new, and good enough, and so on...
This is pretty much the same as me with my good versus bad weather bike. my good weather bike is sub 7kg and my bad weather Genesis Vapour CX bike is about 12kg and is a real chore to ride around here, no fun at all. Still it is practical and keeps me clean due to the full guards.
I don't understand how people can ride heavy bikes like this and say that there's not much difference between them and a sub 7kg carbon machine. It's night and day.0 -
^^This.0
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Most of my riding is commuting, my winter bike is an old specialized allez albeit with 9 speed dura ace, mavic cosmic elite wheels old FSA carbon crankset and i use 23c tires all year, no mudgards etc it weighs 19.2Lb my summer bike a cannondale supersix with DA c24 wheels and pretty much carbon everything weighs 15.9Lbs
I use strava every ride so can quantify differences making allowances for weather traffic etc. the summer bike is definitely faster eg a hill segment where i would average 1.20 winter, summer would be 1.08, longer rolling segments the average difference is well over a minute.
And thats against a winter bike that is just an old summer bike abused!0 -
Re assuring replies, thanks0
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My summer bike definitely feels more agile and accelerates quicker, lower weight and softer tyres help too (especially uphill) but my average speed doesn't drop significantly in similar conditions. I think the major difference is a combination of weather, not feeling as 'up for it' and my winter shoes not being as stiff. I am also an absolute c0ck when it comes to overdressing in autumn/winter and getting too hot which really holds me back :roll:0
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Summer bike Giant Defy, winter bike Giant speeder from pre 1990, steel frame, heavy wheels, mudguards, 28mm tyres, more lights than Blackpool tower.
Plus wet and cold weather gear.
And guess what, I'm slower up the hills....................slower everywhere come to think of it.
But when you get back on the lightweight in the summer, what joy !!!!!
But the enjoyment of winter cycling is no longer about the speed for me. I enjoy the commute in the dark, wierd kind of solitude. Or is it just me?0 -
Too many kebabs between summer and winter.0
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Obviously it's all about weight, amongst other things. Go faster stripes on the summer bike too.
That said, if you used the summer bike in the winter you'd also see a decline in your strava times. Air density, layers, your fitness etc etc.The Human Cyclist - A blog, try it, you might like it...0 -
Human Cyclist wrote:Obviously it's all about weight, amongst other things. Go faster stripes on the summer bike too.
That said, if you used the summer bike in the winter you'd also see a decline in your strava times. Air density, layers, your fitness etc etc.0 -
When riding with the same people, I go from pushing the pace on my racing bike to just about hanging on with my winter bike. Unfortunately I don't have a powermeter on the winter bike so can't quantify the exact difference, but would guess it's around 5% more effort.0
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964Cup wrote:Human Cyclist wrote:Obviously it's all about weight, amongst other things. Go faster stripes on the summer bike too.
That said, if you used the summer bike in the winter you'd also see a decline in your strava times. Air density, layers, your fitness etc etc.
It all adds up - Marginal Gains - or losses - better tyres, wheels that roll better, aerodynamics of the bike and the rider plus the non-controllable aspects like air density & having to keep warm ...
I rode in today without my usual yellow waterproof jacket on and my speed returned to nearly what I'd expect from the same bike sans mudguards and winter tyres in the summer. With the yellowjacket on I'd get ~1mph less on the 11 mile ride.0