MTB to RB

Mick-H
Mick-H Posts: 7
edited October 2013 in Road beginners
Posted this in the MTB section, thought it wouldn't do any harm posting it here.
Decided to keep my current bike till at least after winter to make sure that what I'm experiencing is not just a fad.
What I hope to do though is upgrade some bits and bats, namely the gears, maybe the wheels but that would be much further down the line.

Rear Derailleur SRAM X5
Shifters SRAM X5
Front Derailleur SRAM X5
Chainset Truvativ Blaze powersplined
Wheels Yes Mavic XM-317

I'll be using the bike to and from work and rides out when not in work. I'm doing it to gain fitness and lose weight.
I have to admit that I'm a complete beginner where all of this is concerned so any help will be welcome.

I've currently got my eye on a Shimano Tiagra Rear Derailleur and a Shimano Tiagra Hyperglide HG 50 - 12 to 25 Cassette from what I can gather these are decent entry level road bike equipment but would they be ok on a mountain bike/commuter bike?

Comments

  • thejimmymethod
    thejimmymethod Posts: 458
    Don't bother, it's not worth it imo, and it's possibly not even compatible and for commuting through the winter, as long as it's in decent nick what you have is fine. Get some road tyres and you'll be sorted.
  • southdownswolf
    southdownswolf Posts: 1,525
    Really not worth the hassle putting road stuff onto a mtb, just stick to mtb components. However, as thejimmymethod says, put some slicks on.
    http://www.stuartmole.co.uk/
  • simon_masterson
    simon_masterson Posts: 2,740
    As above. You could get some bar ends for a better position, too.
    Retro(ish) TT 2017-
    Fixed TT 2015-2016
  • Mick-H
    Mick-H Posts: 7
    I've got Conti Travel Contact tyres and some bar ends, looks like I'm going in the right direction.
    Cheers
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    There are plenty of threads on hybridising MTBs in Commuting General.

    When I did it the biggest differences were 1.1 Schwalbe Durano tyres and a 48/36/26 triple crankset. Easily doable for under £100 then next year once you're committed and have upgraded to a road bike (like we all end up doing) you can drag it out when the snow, ice and salt comes next Winter.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,217
    My oldest MTB is a steel framed hard tail with rigid forks, bar ends, full mudguards and specialized nimbus 1.5" tyres. Been using it for commuting and as a winter training bike for years. Would not consider putting road bike components on it, having said that it does have a Shimano 105 short cage rear derailleur.
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    DJ58 wrote:
    My oldest MTB is a steel framed hard tail with rigid forks, bar ends, full mudguards and specialized nimbus 1.5" tyres. Been using it for commuting and as a winter training bike for years. Would not consider putting road bike components on it, having said that it does have a Shimano 105 short cage rear derailleur.

    You've got my bike! (give or take some mudguards...)

    Agreed, pointless changing cassette / mech to road stuff. What difference will it make? If / when you need a new cassette you could get something with closer ratios, but wouldn't have to be "road" specific. Getting a bigger chainring also might help, but you can manage fine with an MTB chainset and an 11T sprocket. Slick tyres (I have Nimbus at the moment and some WTB Slickasaurus as spares), lock out suspension if you can and a pair of bar ends all help.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/41991871@N ... otostream/
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    + 7. That's as far as I got with my light, rigid steel framed MTB for road use. 1.5 inch slicks and some bar ends, which were a massive improvement, but I still got overtaken by a pensioner on a road bike. Briefly contemplated adapting it further but decided a proper road bike was a more sensible use of the money. Now at least I'm overtaking the occasional pensioner.

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