Bike fit (cranks etc....)

cab7220 Posts: 8
edited September 2013 in Road general
Bike started off with 172.5's, mangled the crankset during the winter, picked up 170's for 'cheap' at the LBS. I began having knee pain a month ago after starting group rides in the spring and I was pushing it and making really good progress with strength and weight loss. Then boom...knee pain as soon as my ride ends at the begining of august.
Two weeks off the bike and when i returned i was taking it easy... really easy. Now the pain is back

From what I can remember, when i first got my road bike, the top of the pedal stroke felt like my knee was just floating until around 2-3 o'clock, and the 'power' part of the downstroke was effortless and had me going fast. Now with the shorter cranks and stronger legs I feel like my inner knee on both legs seems to be engaged through the whole pedal stroke. Ive tried up and down back and forth on the saddle and various cleat positions with no luck. Top speed sprint is down, and when i really really concentrate on letting the knee float(disengage at the top then let it fall into the power part of the stoke) the knee feels great... but i'm not going anywhere fast. My point is... I feel like 2-5:30 on the pedal stroke doesn't feel as strong or smooth as it did when i first started riding.

I'm 6' tall i'd say i have long legs and a shorter upper body with flippers for feet.
Inseam 33.5 inches 85cm (roughy)
Feet size 13. Using spd mountain shoes/ pedals.

Could it be the cranksize? Shoes? Overall bike fit?\

Anyone else had these issues with smaller cranks or odd body type (short upper body long legs or long upper body shorter legs)


  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    Did you raise your saddle the 2.5mm after replacing the crank?
    Although it shouldn't make *that* much difference...
    Insta: ATEnduranceCoaching
    ABCC Cycling Coach
  • thanks for the fast replies
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    TBH crank length isn't a big deal and is preference more than morphology. What NapD said is spot on, as you would need to raise your saddle height to compensate for the difference in crank length (same as if you bought shoes with a different stack height).
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