Upgrading wheels - what else do I need?

antsmithmk
antsmithmk Posts: 717
edited August 2013 in Road general
Hi,

I've ordered a pair of Fulcrum 5's from wiggle and a pair of conti GP4000s to shod them. I'm upgrading from DT axis 1.0 and Spesh Roubaix tires (big mistake purchase).

So I think I need a cassette tool, rim tape, tyre levers and 2 new tubes... Am I forgetting anything?!

Comments

  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Bike? Do you have a bike?
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • chrisaonabike
    chrisaonabike Posts: 1,914
    Grill wrote:
    Bike? Do you have a bike?
    :lol::lol:
    antsmithmk wrote:
    So I think I need a cassette tool, rim tape, tyre levers and 2 new tubes... Am I forgetting anything?!
    Chain whip?
    Is the gorilla tired yet?
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    You don't need rim tape - it should come already taped.

    You do need a big grin ... for when you've got it all on and go for a ride! :)
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    Grill wrote:
    Bike? Do you have a bike?


    A what? :shock:
  • edhornby
    edhornby Posts: 1,780
    a cassette tool and a chain whip

    you can reuse the tubes and fulcrums come with rim tape

    if you have tools that you take on a ride to fix a puncture then you should already have some tyre levers...
    "I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that"
    --Jens Voight
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    ChrisAOnABike wrote:
    Grill wrote:
    Bike? Do you have a bike?
    :lol::lol:
    antsmithmk wrote:
    So I think I need a cassette tool, rim tape, tyre levers and 2 new tubes... Am I forgetting anything?!
    Chain whip?

    Yep got a chain whip.... I was thinking that was a cassette tool
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    edhornby wrote:
    a cassette tool and a chain whip

    you can reuse the tubes and fulcrums come with rim tape

    if you have tools that you take on a ride to fix a puncture then you should already have some tyre levers...

    Yes got about 20 of the things kicking abou!
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    antsmithmk wrote:
    ChrisAOnABike wrote:
    Grill wrote:
    Bike? Do you have a bike?
    :lol::lol:
    antsmithmk wrote:
    So I think I need a cassette tool, rim tape, tyre levers and 2 new tubes... Am I forgetting anything?!
    Chain whip?

    Yep got a chain whip.... I was thinking that was a cassette tool

    No the cassette tool is the dohickey which slots into locking ring in the cassette which you turn with a spanner. You need the tool for both on and off, and the chainwhip only for off.

    I fitted the new cassette to my RS80's using a chain tool and a spanner in the works car park in the space of about 2 minutes, and I suck at bike maintenance ;)
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    OK thanks Mark, think I've got everything I need then! Is it worth putting extra rim tape on?
  • VeloPeo
    VeloPeo Posts: 23
    Make sure you take the cassette off and either
    1) Keep it together as a unit or
    2) Make sure you take each cog and spacer off and line them up in order.

    Nothing worse than missing out a spacer and have it rattling around or shifting incorrectly as the cogs aren;t where they should be
  • tilesey
    tilesey Posts: 14
    antsmithmk wrote:
    OK thanks Mark, think I've got everything I need then! Is it worth putting extra rim tape on?

    Not really!
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    VeloPeo wrote:
    Make sure you take the cassette off and either
    1) Keep it together as a unit or
    2) Make sure you take each cog and spacer off and line them up in order.

    Nothing worse than missing out a spacer and have it rattling around or shifting incorrectly as the cogs aren;t where they should be


    Thanks, that's a good tip. When I put on a new cassette last time I had cogs everywhere! Is it worth spraying each one with GT50 and they rubbing down so the cassette is shiny clean?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    If it's a new cassette then no, if it's an old dirty one then why not :)
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    An old towel and a work mate can make a good chain whip alternative if you are desperate. Just wrap the towel around the cassette and clamp it gently in the work mate. Then attach the cassette tool and release the lock ring.
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  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    diy wrote:
    An old towel and a work mate can make a good chain whip alternative if you are desperate. Just wrap the towel around the cassette and clamp it gently in the work mate. Then attach the cassette tool and release the lock ring.

    Daft q.... Bit the lock ring unlocks anti clockwise right?
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    Not entirely necessary, but with new rims I like to fit new brakes. Old pads from older rims can leave uneven wear on new rims. Also braking won't be as effective if they have taken on your old rims grooves and wear pattern.
  • chris_bass
    chris_bass Posts: 4,913
    SmoggySteve wrote:
    Not entirely necessary, but with new rims I like to fit new brakes. Old pads from older rims can leave uneven wear on new rims. Also braking won't be as effective if they have taken on your old rims grooves and wear pattern.

    +1
    www.conjunctivitis.com - a site for sore eyes
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    antsmithmk wrote:
    diy wrote:
    An old towel and a work mate can make a good chain whip alternative if you are desperate. Just wrap the towel around the cassette and clamp it gently in the work mate. Then attach the cassette tool and release the lock ring.

    Daft q.... Bit the lock ring unlocks anti clockwise right?
    yup
  • Mindermast
    Mindermast Posts: 124
    You should actually re-adjust your brakes, so you need the tools for that. It is a good opportunity to replace old wires and rubbers.

    Grease for the thread of the lockring is helpful too, protects it against corrosion and makes it much easier to remove it next year. I also put some grease onto the freewheel-body, but that might not be necessary.

    The lockring unlocks anti-clockwise, just like a normal screw. that is, why you need the chain whip for taking off the cassette.
  • Yossie
    Yossie Posts: 2,600
    Borrow a torque wrench so you do the lock nut back up at 40Nm and slap some grease in there at the same time.

    Clean the hub (WD will do it followed by a good clean with a clean rag). I always grease the hub as well in the vain hope that it'll make the next change that much easier but who knows whether it actually makes any difference.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    SmoggySteve wrote:
    Not entirely necessary, but with new rims I like to fit new brakes. Old pads from older rims can leave uneven wear on new rims. Also braking won't be as effective if they have taken on your old rims grooves and wear pattern.

    Hmm, couple of rides would sort that out. Pads are soft, rims relatively hard. If the old pads have plenty of miles in them there's no reason not to leave them in. I swap wheels around all the time and don't have any problems with uneven wear. All I'd do is check the old pads for debris, clean anything nasty out and leave it at that.
    Mindermast wrote:
    You should actually re-adjust your brakes, so you need the tools for that. It is a good opportunity to replace old wires and rubbers.

    No adjustment needed unless the rim widths are different. And no tools required as it should just be doable with the cable length adjuster on the caliper lever arm. This is just the normal level of adjustment you should routinely do as pads wear.

    It's all starting to sound very complicated on here. It's a wheel swap. I'm starting to expect that someone will come along and suggest a frame swap is needed! :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • VeloPeo
    VeloPeo Posts: 23
    antsmithmk wrote:
    diy wrote:
    An old towel and a work mate can make a good chain whip alternative if you are desperate. Just wrap the towel around the cassette and clamp it gently in the work mate. Then attach the cassette tool and release the lock ring.

    Daft q.... Bit the lock ring unlocks anti clockwise right?

    Righty tighty. lefty loosey :)
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Except with pedals on the other side ;)
  • VeloPeo
    VeloPeo Posts: 23
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    Except with pedals on the other side ;)

    Yeah yeah :D
  • paul_mck
    paul_mck Posts: 1,058
    check if you need a spacer for the cassette.
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    That should come with the wheels right? That's if the hub is 11spd and I am using 10spd...?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    antsmithmk wrote:
    That should come with the wheels right? That's if the hub is 11spd and I am using 10spd...?

    Many 11spd wheels will, but not all.
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    Rolf F wrote:
    SmoggySteve wrote:
    Not entirely necessary, but with new rims I like to fit new brakes. Old pads from older rims can leave uneven wear on new rims. Also braking won't be as effective if they have taken on your old rims grooves and wear pattern.

    Hmm, couple of rides would sort that out. Pads are soft, rims relatively hard. If the old pads have plenty of miles in them there's no reason not to leave them in. I swap wheels around all the time and don't have any problems with uneven wear. All I'd do is check the old pads for debris, clean anything nasty out and leave it at that.
    Mindermast wrote:
    You should actually re-adjust your brakes, so you need the tools for that. It is a good opportunity to replace old wires and rubbers.

    No adjustment needed unless the rim widths are different. And no tools required as it should just be doable with the cable length adjuster on the caliper lever arm. This is just the normal level of adjustment you should routinely do as pads wear.

    It's all starting to sound very complicated on here. It's a wheel swap. I'm starting to expect that someone will come along and suggest a frame swap is needed! :lol:

    I am sure your right. A few rides would sort them out. I just like to know I have good brakes every time I ride. As much as I like riding fast I like to know that when I pull my brake im going to stop. If you are happy riding on questionable brakes until they bed in crack on.
  • paul_mck
    paul_mck Posts: 1,058
    bed in lol, they will be grand.
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    antsmithmk wrote:
    That should come with the wheels right? That's if the hub is 11spd and I am using 10spd...?

    Many 11spd wheels will, but not all.

    Not the wheels I ordered. Quick trip to the local bike shop, they gave me 2mm and 1mm for free. Great service!

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