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New road stem to choose

hmichhmich Posts: 10
edited August 2013 in Road buying advice
Hi folks,

i have a Wilier Zero 7 and need to change my FSA stem for another one. I need a 90mm and FSA k-force begin with a 100mm.

For thoses who ever experienced theses stems...which one will be the stiffer ?

- 3T ARX LTD Stem
- Zipp 145 Carbon Stem
- Easton EC90 SL Stem

Thansks for your advice

Posts

  • Zipp 145
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • imposter2.0imposter2.0 Posts: 11,738
    hmich wrote:
    Hi folks,

    i have a Wilier Zero 7 and need to change my FSA stem for another one. I need a 90mm and FSA k-force begin with a 100mm.

    For thoses who ever experienced theses stems...which one will be the stiffer ?

    - 3T ARX LTD Stem
    - Zipp 145 Carbon Stem
    - Easton EC90 SL Stem

    Thansks for your advice

    At 90mm, stiffness is not really a consideration - in fact, unless you are a sprinter built like a gorilla you probably won't notice a difference anyway. There are lots of other FSA stems in 90mm if brand loyalty is an issue.
  • meesterbondmeesterbond Posts: 1,240
    I've been using 3T Team and Pro stems for ages and they've been great. No idea why you'd spend the extra on the Ltd though given it weighs all of 10g less and costs 3 times the price and I'm usually happy to waste money on all sorts of spurious 'marginal gains'.
  • arran77arran77 Posts: 9,260
    Imposter wrote:
    hmich wrote:
    Hi folks,

    i have a Wilier Zero 7 and need to change my FSA stem for another one. I need a 90mm and FSA k-force begin with a 100mm.

    For thoses who ever experienced theses stems...which one will be the stiffer ?

    - 3T ARX LTD Stem
    - Zipp 145 Carbon Stem
    - Easton EC90 SL Stem

    Thansks for your advice

    At 90mm, stiffness is not really a consideration - in fact, unless you are a sprinter built like a gorilla you probably won't notice a difference anyway. There are lots of other FSA stems in 90mm if brand loyalty is an issue.

    If you want to stick with FSA then how about the OS-99 CSI stem....

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-os-99-csi-stem/rp-prod34273?ModelID=34273
    "Arran, you are like the Tony Benn of smut. You have never diluted your depravity and always stand by your beliefs. You have my respect sir and your wife my pity" :lol:

    seanoconn
  • gloomyandygloomyandy Posts: 520
    Might be worth checking with your bar and fork suppliers doc. I seem to remember that there was an issue with some forks a while back which resulted in some manufacturers saying that you should not use certain stems with some carbon forks. I thing the problem was to do with the way the stem clamped the fork. Some stems had a larger amount of metal cut away (which made them lighter) but which resulted in the clamping force being applied to a smaller area of the fork.
  • springtide9springtide9 Posts: 1,731
    I needed a 90mm and got the FSA SL-K:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSA-SL-K-Carb ... 51aea65f77

    Looks nice (reasonably priced) and very happy with the stiffness (I guess flex is less of an issue at this length).
    Simon
  • I've got a 3T ARX Ltd which is nice, but it came on the frame. As above, it makes little differnce and its not a stem Id buy at full price.

    Thomson is the nicest stuff IMO. Strong, finish second-to-non, no nonsense lovelyness :D
  • WheelspinnerWheelspinner Posts: 5,867
    Of the three listed, the only one I would not consider is the 3T, because in my experience, as lovely as they look, the bolts are utter [email protected] I have used several of them, Team and Pro (not Ltd ones), and they are the *only* brand of stem I've used on which the bolts sheared. Won't buy any of them again.

    Yes, I use a calibrated torque wrench, carbon paste where applicable and set under the recommended limits and they still shear.

    Pity as they are otherwise nice.
    Open O-1.0 Open One+ BMC TE29 Titus Racer X Ti Seven 622SL Kestrel RT1000 On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • GrillGrill Posts: 5,610
    Ritchey C260 will put them all to shame in both stiffness and weight.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • hmichhmich Posts: 10
    Thanks everybody...my dealer order me a ZIPP...
  • giant_mangiant_man Posts: 6,878
    Of the three listed, the only one I would not consider is the 3T, because in my experience, as lovely as they look, the bolts are utter [email protected] I have used several of them, Team and Pro (not Ltd ones), and they are the *only* brand of stem I've used on which the bolts sheared. Won't buy any of them again.

    Yes, I use a calibrated torque wrench, carbon paste where applicable and set under the recommended limits and they still shear.

    Pity as they are otherwise nice.
    so just change the bolts for better ones, it's not the end of the world, christ!
  • asprillaasprilla Posts: 8,440
    It's annoying when you shear a steel bolt flush with the bolt hole. I've had to bin a 3T ARX Pro because of that.

    I've still got them on three bikes though.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • majormantramajormantra Posts: 2,094
    To be fair I've read a lot of reports of people breaking 3T's Ti bolts (on the Team/Ltd versions) but I'm surprised to hear of any issue with their steel bolts.

    Thomsons look nice but their design is inherently less durable as they use a machined (rather than forged) faceplate.
  • majormantramajormantra Posts: 2,094
    I've read a number of reports where people have broken them using torque wrenches. Of course I have no way of knowing if they were using them correctly.

    Personally I recommend getting one of those 5Nm torque keys from the likes of Bontrager. Gives a lot of peace of mind.
  • WheelspinnerWheelspinner Posts: 5,867

    As I work in a shop that sells them, I can safely say you're doing it wrong.

    The bolts are excellent, do not rust and are very light, and if you torque them correctly (5-6Nm) then they won't break. If you apply too much force, or force it in the wrong direction then yeah, they'll snap.

    Thanks for the laugh, but I recommend you keep your uninformed opinion about my mechanics abilities to yourself.

    I have an engineering degree. I am aware of what a torque wrench is for. I've used one to build actual engines too, so I am quite capable in using it. It is calibrated too.

    I've built, repaired and generally fettled a dozen of my own bikes in the last few years, plus several for friends. My LBS is confident enough in my workshop skills that he lends me tools when I need them rather than have me take stuff in to pay him to do. FWIW, he's generally regarded as one of the best mechanics around these parts, hired by Shimano to be their rep at pro races locally. He sold me the stems, and was not at all surprised about the bolt breakages, says lots of them do.

    For installing the stem bolts I set it at 4 Nm typically as that's all that's required. That setting has worked perfectly installing stems from Ritchey, Thomson, Syncros, Pro, Pinarello, Deda, ITM, Cannondale OEM, and a few other generic ones.

    The *only* manufacturer I've ever had problems with is 3T. Bolts have sheared on three of their "Team" stems.

    The good news is the bolts are so bad they are fairly simple to drill out. If they really are using titanium as bolt material, it's the cheapest, nastiest rubbish grade of it ever made I suspect.
    Giant Man wrote:
    so just change the bolts for better ones, it's not the end of the world, christ!

    No it isn't the end of the world, but they are still censored bolts. The OP asked for opinions on three stems - all I did was document my experience with the 3T ones. What was your useful contribution here? :)
    Open O-1.0 Open One+ BMC TE29 Titus Racer X Ti Seven 622SL Kestrel RT1000 On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • meesterbondmeesterbond Posts: 1,240
    For what it's worth I managed to sheer one of the Ti bolts using a torque wrench set well below the 5Nm limit.

    Have never had the problem with any of the Pro level ones with the steel bolts so I put up with the extra 30g.
  • WheelspinnerWheelspinner Posts: 5,867

    Congratulations on your degree, if only I'd known that you spent 3 years learning how to tighten up stem bolts I wouldn't have dreamed of questioning your ability to not break a good product from a good manufacturer.

    Thanks, and well done to you. Only 18 and already a Grade A know-all.
    For what it's worth I managed to sheer one of the Ti bolts using a torque wrench set well below the 5Nm limit.

    Have never had the problem with any of the Pro level ones with the steel bolts so I put up with the extra 30g.

    Oops, looks like you're doing it wrong too according to our resident child prodigy mechanic.
    Open O-1.0 Open One+ BMC TE29 Titus Racer X Ti Seven 622SL Kestrel RT1000 On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • I've read a number of reports where people have broken them using torque wrenches. Of course I have no way of knowing if they were using them correctly.

    Personally I recommend getting one of those 5Nm torque keys from the likes of Bontrager. Gives a lot of peace of mind.

    Have one, fantastic. Most adjustable torque wrenches are pretty inaccurate at low torque values.
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