Brake and gearing issues/questions

P34RC3
P34RC3 Posts: 37
edited July 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all

Im having trouble with my brakes there just shocking. i was told on here to bleed them which i will give a go in the near future but i also found this.
20130716_142417_zps00e8c693.jpg
20130716_142410_zps67e046ec.jpg
20130716_142356_zps8b18995e.jpg

Would you say they need changing because of how rusty looking they are?

My next question is gearing. after taking my rear wheel off to look at the pads and give all my cogs on the wheel a clean. I found when i put it into 1st it jumps off the top cog and comes off. What have i done to it and how can i fix this? Is it anything to do with the 2 screws with the + and - signs?

Thanks Arron

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    What issues (symptoms) do you have with the brakes?

    Rusty backplates cause no issue unless they are sticking in the caliper in which case they may cause rubbing but won't affect braking.

    Sounds like either the wheel didn't go in straight or the QR isn't tight enough, gears shouldn't need re-indexing (see parktools.com) for that, but it does help to know how to do it!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • P34RC3
    P34RC3 Posts: 37
    The breaks are really noisy and dont stop like hydraulic brakes usually do. I cant even my wheels up. Ill take the wheel back off and put it back on again and make sure the quick release is tight. Thanks
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    OK so what symptoms do you have? Long lever (to bars) or normal lever feel and no friction?

    Noisy could mean lots of things.

    What fluid (again)?

    Brakes, break is what YOU do when the brakes don't work and you crash!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • P34RC3
    P34RC3 Posts: 37
    Lol. Yh spelling mistake. I belive its mineral oil. Or at least thats whats wrote on the leavers. The brakes seem to pull back normal maybe abit more travel than usual but definitely not back to the bars.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    Mineral oil is on the lever and what you should put in, what the F did you actually put in it? If you put DOT in your brakes are now scrap.

    OK so don't need bleeding (or at least not badly!), suspect your pads are contaminated, given the state of them I'd fit some new.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • P34RC3
    P34RC3 Posts: 37
    I never out anything in them. Iv bought it 2nd hand and the brakes have supposed to of been bleed. Ok ill wack some new pads and go from there. Thanks for your help?
  • P34RC3
    P34RC3 Posts: 37
    Iv replaced the pads and the noise has gone. Brakes still arnt that efficient yet. I know they will need wearing in but might have to bleed them. As for the gears I watched a video on YouTube how to adjust the rear Derailleur and it seems to not drop off. The front derailleur needs a slight adjustment to be perfect.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    Don't bleed them unless they NEED bleeding.
    My photos
  • P34RC3
    P34RC3 Posts: 37
    Are you not supposed to replace the fluid or oil in this case after so long?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    No need, the system is sealed, no air or moisture can get in....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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