Garmin Cadence Sensor Placement

Bigbud

Just a note to anyone with a cadence sensor on there chain stay, make extra sure you don't knock it with your heel.

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight, the result was the sensor going through the wheel, bent a spoke and cracked the non drive side chain stay of my only done 600 miles Tarmac

Nick_M

Bummer

Fixable?

gloomyandy

Yep it is easy to do. Last winter I was just about to set off on my Sunday club ride when I found my back wheel locked up. didn't understand what was wrong at first as the rest of the group disappeared into the distance. Finally noticed that the sensor was jammed in the spokes and it was only a minutes job to free it. Luckily I did not do what was my first reaction and just press really hard on the pedals!

sungod

garmin's design is terrible, the standard position on top of the chainstay is an accident waiting to happen, it should've been designed to fit on the underside (you can do this if you fit it driveside, but on most bikes the rd cable will be in the way)

the arm that detects wheel revolutions is adjustable, there's a screw at the pivot point, best way to install it is on the drive side chainstay so that if it does get knocked inwards it's angled so that the spoke may still knock it outwards rather than inwards, *not* with the arm sticking up like this waiting to get dragged into the spokes...

supermurph09

You can mount it on the none drive side but push the arm all the way down so its not sticking in the air.

Gizmodo

As murph said, you can mount it below on the non drive side no problem. See my post
viewtopic.php?f=40020&t=12910875#p18201047

Gizmodo wrote:

Again as Dani said, it may not be a Garmin sensor, but either way personally I mount mine under the tube. 2 reasons, first I think it looks better, but second some people have reported the sensor working loose and falling down into the spokes, breaking some stuff as it goes. If it is already underneath hanging down, if it does come loose I am hoping it will do less damage. Saying that, I had it on top for 12 months and 5000 miles and I never had a problem.



When taking that photo I realised just how dirty my bike is :oops: I am suitably ashamed.

supermurph09

Not the greatest picture



But you get the picture.

redvee

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Bigbud

Nick_M wrote:

Bummer

Fixable?

hope so

Not sure what or how it actually went but to me it looks like the sensor took the top areas laminate then when it went through the wheel it did the side of the stay, not easy to see the crack but there's a lot of flex.

Waiting to hear about a crash replacement frame but my LBS said he's not hopeful and spesh took 8 weeks to reply to the email request, i'm now waiting again to see if they will offer me anything.

Most likely I will get it repaired if it possible.

nwallace

redvee wrote:

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Got a photo of that set up on your Kaff, I'm about to head into the garage to figure out how to do it on mine, so being able to compare...

smoggysteve

Just in case it helps other users.

Every pic I see on here have the zip tie touching the chainstay. When you buy a Garmin cadence sensor you get 2 rubber mounting plates of different thicknesses. I put one under the sensor and another under the chainstay so the zip tie grips the rubber and not slipping on smooth bodywork. Also, use the sticky pad to stick the rubber to the frame and it should stay perfectly still even with a slight knock.

nwallace

Thanks for reminding me what I forgot to remove... Doh!
Got mine on the non-Drive side pointing up the way, it's sharing the space with the Cateeye Strada sensors (there's reasons I want to run both) and the rear brake cable. Initially I had the magnets on separate spokes but discovered the Strada picked up the stronger Garmin magnet as well as its own so was reading double.

redvee

nwallace wrote:

redvee wrote:

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Got a photo of that set up on your Kaff, I'm about to head into the garage to figure out how to do it on mine, so being able to compare...

sloppyschleckonds

Bigbud wrote:

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight

Were you unclipping 'inwards', i.e heel towards the chainstay?

nwallace

redvee wrote:

nwallace wrote:

redvee wrote:

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Got a photo of that set up on your Kaff, I'm about to head into the garage to figure out how to do it on mine, so being able to compare...

Thanks,
Dead simple solution!
I'll try to remember to post how I've got mine mounted tonight
I did try something like what you've done position wise by wasn't convinced I was going to be able to get the magnets close enough to the sensors (this was before discovering they're pretty strong magnets)

IShotYou

redvee wrote:

nwallace wrote:

redvee wrote:

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Got a photo of that set up on your Kaff, I'm about to head into the garage to figure out how to do it on mine, so being able to compare...

Surely there is no Cadence being sensed here (unless you have one of those magnets in the crank thingies)?

rolf_f

SmoggySteve wrote:

Just in case it helps other users.

Every pic I see on here have the zip tie touching the chainstay. When you buy a Garmin cadence sensor you get 2 rubber mounting plates of different thicknesses. I put one under the sensor and another under the chainstay so the zip tie grips the rubber and not slipping on smooth bodywork. Also, use the sticky pad to stick the rubber to the frame and it should stay perfectly still even with a slight knock.

I just use frame protector tape. It is cut to the width of the sensor so is hardly visibly under the cable ties and everything seems pretty solid.

IShotYou wrote:

redvee wrote:

nwallace wrote:

redvee wrote:

On one bike it sits on top of the LH chainstay, on the other bike it sits under the LH chainstay cause I've got cable discs mounted inside the rear triangle on my Kaffenback.

Got a photo of that set up on your Kaff, I'm about to head into the garage to figure out how to do it on mine, so being able to compare...

Surely there is no Cadence being sensed here (unless you have one of those magnets in the crank thingies)?

Probably a rare earth (Neodymium) magnet on the end of the pedal spindle. Much neater than the messy cable tie on crank arm method and it also means the sensor is much less sensitive to its position relative to the magnet.

napoleond

I tend to place mine in my mate's bike as he rides faster than me.

NewTTer

Bigbud wrote:

Just a note to anyone with a cadence sensor on there chain stay, make extra sure you don't knock it with your heel.

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight, the result was the sensor going through the wheel, bent a spoke and cracked the non drive side chain stay of my only done 600 miles Tarmac

So why was you turning your foot into the wheel in an attempt to unclip? I doubt it was anything to do with the sensor positioning or indeed a cleat being to tight, more like simple user error and a poor technique being used, which has resulted in damage to your bike which has pissed you off and triggered the human need to find someone/something to blame reaction.
Guess you can consider yourself lucky it was just material damage, and not your hell getting shredded in the spokes as well. For future reference try rotating your foot away from the bike to unclip, so that's clockwise with the left foot and anti clock with the right foot.

Although some useful discussion on sensor placement has resulted.

Hope the damage to your frame is only cosmetic and not structural and you are back on the road ASAP

slowbike

NewTTer wrote:

Bigbud wrote:

Just a note to anyone with a cadence sensor on there chain stay, make extra sure you don't knock it with your heel.

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight, the result was the sensor going through the wheel, bent a spoke and cracked the non drive side chain stay of my only done 600 miles Tarmac

So why was you turning your foot into the wheel in an attempt to unclip? I doubt it was anything to do with the sensor positioning or indeed a cleat being to tight, more like simple user error and a poor technique being used, which has resulted in damage to your bike which has pissed you off and triggered the human need to find someone/something to blame reaction.
Guess you can consider yourself lucky it was just material damage, and not your hell getting shredded in the spokes as well. For future reference try rotating your foot away from the bike to unclip, so that's clockwise with the left foot and anti clock with the right foot.

Although some useful discussion on sensor placement has resulted.

Hope the damage to your frame is only cosmetic and not structural and you are back on the road ASAP

Eh? You were alright up to the point where you seem to be accusing the OP of blaming someone/something other than himself ... then you come back on track...
I can't see that he's done that - he's highlighted an issue that he had. Albeit through poor technique. It serves as a warning to the rest of us.

Questions it raises are:
Why are the pedals not made so they can only unclip outwards?
Why is the sensor placed above the stay?

It's through accidents and investigations that we continuously improve - the OP has unwittingly performed a useful but probably expensive experiment - the results of which we can all use to our benefit.

It might not be through unclipping that the sensor gets knocked inwards - it could be during transportation or a crash during a ride - that it causes potentially catastrophic damage to the frame is worth consideration.

NewTTer

Slowbike wrote:

NewTTer wrote:

Bigbud wrote:

Just a note to anyone with a cadence sensor on there chain stay, make extra sure you don't knock it with your heel.

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight, the result was the sensor going through the wheel, bent a spoke and cracked the non drive side chain stay of my only done 600 miles Tarmac

So why was you turning your foot into the wheel in an attempt to unclip? I doubt it was anything to do with the sensor positioning or indeed a cleat being to tight, more like simple user error and a poor technique being used, which has resulted in damage to your bike which has pissed you off and triggered the human need to find someone/something to blame reaction.
Guess you can consider yourself lucky it was just material damage, and not your hell getting shredded in the spokes as well. For future reference try rotating your foot away from the bike to unclip, so that's clockwise with the left foot and anti clock with the right foot.

Although some useful discussion on sensor placement has resulted.

Hope the damage to your frame is only cosmetic and not structural and you are back on the road ASAP

Eh? You were alright up to the point where you seem to be accusing the OP of blaming someone/something other than himself ... then you come back on track...
I can't see that he's done that - he's highlighted an issue that he had. Albeit through poor technique. It serves as a warning to the rest of us.

Questions it raises are:
Why are the pedals not made so they can only unclip outwards?
Why is the sensor placed above the stay?

It's through accidents and investigations that we continuously improve - the OP has unwittingly performed a useful but probably expensive experiment - the results of which we can all use to our benefit.

It might not be through unclipping that the sensor gets knocked inwards - it could be during transportation or a crash during a ride - that it causes potentially catastrophic damage to the frame is worth consideration.

Really, jeez you need some help what colour is the sky on your planet! You honestly believe that it isn't anything other than crass stupidity to rotate your foot towards a spinning wheel in an attempt to unclip LMFAO you couldn't make it up

slowbike

NewTTer wrote:

Slowbike wrote:

NewTTer wrote:

Bigbud wrote:

Just a note to anyone with a cadence sensor on there chain stay, make extra sure you don't knock it with your heel.

Stating the bloody obvious I know but I knocked my when trying to unclip with a new cleat that was too tight, the result was the sensor going through the wheel, bent a spoke and cracked the non drive side chain stay of my only done 600 miles Tarmac

So why was you turning your foot into the wheel in an attempt to unclip? I doubt it was anything to do with the sensor positioning or indeed a cleat being to tight, more like simple user error and a poor technique being used, which has resulted in damage to your bike which has pissed you off and triggered the human need to find someone/something to blame reaction.
Guess you can consider yourself lucky it was just material damage, and not your hell getting shredded in the spokes as well. For future reference try rotating your foot away from the bike to unclip, so that's clockwise with the left foot and anti clock with the right foot.

Although some useful discussion on sensor placement has resulted.

Hope the damage to your frame is only cosmetic and not structural and you are back on the road ASAP

Eh? You were alright up to the point where you seem to be accusing the OP of blaming someone/something other than himself ... then you come back on track...
I can't see that he's done that - he's highlighted an issue that he had. Albeit through poor technique. It serves as a warning to the rest of us.

Questions it raises are:
Why are the pedals not made so they can only unclip outwards?
Why is the sensor placed above the stay?

It's through accidents and investigations that we continuously improve - the OP has unwittingly performed a useful but probably expensive experiment - the results of which we can all use to our benefit.

It might not be through unclipping that the sensor gets knocked inwards - it could be during transportation or a crash during a ride - that it causes potentially catastrophic damage to the frame is worth consideration.

Really, jeez you need some help what colour is the sky on your planet! You honestly believe that it isn't anything other than crass stupidity to rotate your foot towards a spinning wheel in an attempt to unclip LMFAO you couldn't make it up

I know ppl that always unclipped towards the wheel .... now trying to "correct" it ...
Crass Stupidity? No - intelligent ppl - but not so mechanically minded ... and hadn't considered the possibilities of what could go wrong.
Did you think about it when you started? Or did you just follow everyone else ... I just followed everyone else ...

Try it (on a stationary bike) - unclipping inwards is physically easier - so I guess that's why they did it.

Depending on the geometry - you're quite likely to just scuff the shoe when unclipping inwards - it's only the act of knocking the sensor that caused the damage.

Now, if you could perhaps be a little more understanding and a little less "know it all" then perhaps you could have something meaningful to contribute.

NewTTer

I suggest you re read your nonsense above and maybe consider removing it before you get carted off for treatment somewhere, and you accuse me of not having anything meaningful to add LMFAO, since when did being mechanically minded have anything to do with wanting to put your foot into a moving wheel, but if they are associates of yours, and you have shown all and sundry your level then I guess its no surprise.
I guess your wit is like your bike, SLOW.
Unclipping inwards with restricted movement is not, and never will be easier, unless of course you are somewhat strange

Bigbud

NewTTer wrote:

Bigbud wrote:

So why was you turning your foot into the wheel in an attempt to unclip? I doubt it was anything to do with the sensor positioning or indeed a cleat being to tight, more like simple user error and a poor technique being used,

I know how to unclip from a pedal :roll: The cleat was too tight and when I rotated my foot the cleat did not release, I then had to "gasp" rotate my foot back toward the bike to take another go at unclipping but went to far and clipped the sensor. As pointed out above, if the sensor had been below the stay the wheel would have pushed the sensor back out instead of dragging it through the wheel and in my case cracking the frame.

Anyway had the frame repaired, can't see the actually carbon repair as its under paint but it's flush, smooth and feels stiff again. Out of interest I weighed the frame with only the BB30 bearings fitted and it was 1249g, after repair 1262g.
As far as I can tell the carbon repair was good.

The paint on the other hand IMO is poor, they have made a good match job but they got finger prints in black paint and the drive side stay (white) then obviously tried to rib it off and taken the lacker off. The finger prints are still visable the new area of white they have done has got black bits in it. Looks like grit ! There is also over spill and the lacker finish is poor, has gone everywhere.

You can't really see most of it unless you really look but It know its there

Rebuild in progress just in time for it to go into the garage for the winter