Newbie needs advice on fixed aero bars\stem length etc

daniel_b
daniel_b Posts: 12,140
edited July 2013 in Road buying advice
Hello all,

I have recently acquired some combined handlebars with integrated stem, and non adjustable aero bars included, I'm also awaiting some cane creek carbon levers on order from ribble, and some second hand dura ace 9sp shifters on order off of ebay - these are to go on my Felt.

36168.jpg

As a newbie time trialler I wonder if anyone can give me some advice on position.

I have ordered a 340mm long item - this includes what turns out to be a 90mm stem, so the bars are 250mm.

I have put the saddle on the bike, and slid it forwards, pretty much as far as it will so - due to the style of seatclamp, I would say the amount of movement I have available is only around 2cm front to rear.

I popped the bars onto the stem, and got down onto the arm rests to see what felt natural, and in doing so I discovered that the reach on these is possibly a little short, ie I feel like my hands want to be a few mm further forward.

I measured the distance to where my hands would ideally grip the ski style bars, and I estimated it at around 355mm, but that is with the saddle in the most forward position.
On the 340's my arms were resting on the pads, but a reasonable distance away from the elbow, and I imagine, as long as the stem does not get larger on the 360 ones, that the larger part of my arm, closer to the elbow would be sitting on the pads.

So my question is, would I be better to stick with the 340, and push my seat as far back as it can go, or would I be better to go for the 360 and have my saddle as far forward as it can go?

Additionally, I gather the brake levers will go on the side bars, and the gear levers will go on the end of the aero bars - is that correct?
Does the fact the gear levers go into the end of the aero bars increase the reach at all, ie even though I feel a bit cramped on the 340mm ones, would the need to use the levers effectively extend this to 350mm for example?

Am I also correct in assuming I would only apply tape around the ends of the ski bars, and the side bars where the brake levers will be?
And as I do not yet have the brakes or gears, can anyone tell me how they secure into the end of the bars, I assume they must have an allen key that expands them and locks them into the end of the tube?

Sorry for all the daft questions :oops:

Cheers

Dan
Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 18

Comments

  • Rod11
    Rod11 Posts: 293
    Here's a good bit on the forum where you can post pictures of your position, where some very knowledgeable people will be able to help you out - http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40011&t=12693869&start=420

    But going on what you're saying, I wouldn't move the saddle back (provided you're in a good position) to try and increase the reach. Ideally you want your arms in a roughly 90 degree bend or slightly greater, ie if your shoulders are in front of your elbows then yes you'll need more length. If you can sit on the bike in front of the mirror or get someone to take a picture then that's a good help. It does take a while getting used to the position, it can feel quite unnatural to begin with.

    You're right about the brake levers and shifters, brakes on the base bar and shifters on the extensions. Once the shifters are on it will help a bit with regard to the reach, but not a lot. With regard to the bar tape, you're spot on there as well. It's worth knowing some people (me included) prefer to use a bit of friction tape on the bars instead of bar tape, just personal preference though. And yeah they're an expanding plug type deal.

    Hope that's of some help!
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,140
    Hi Jack,

    thankyou for that really helpful and carefully crafted reply :-)

    I have decided to order an additional 360mm set of bars, and once I have the bike in a viable position to try the bars, I will try both the 340 and the 360, and with the seat forward and back, and take pictures of all 4 combinations and post on that thread - thanks for the heads up.
    I'll then send back which ever one is not the right fit.

    What I was not sure about was whether you want the saddle further forward or further back?

    I guess that is the downside with non adjustable aero bars, but then they are a stonking deal at the mo, and if it fits, I think it's a good buy.

    I have my 9spd shifters which arrived yesterday, but irritatingly Flubit provided the non carbon brake levers for about the twice the price I could have sourced them :?
    I now have to send them back before they will send me the correct ones.

    Thanks again

    Dan
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • meesterbond
    meesterbond Posts: 1,240
    Assuming the Felt you mention is a road bike, rather than a TT geometry, trying to get a good position with what look like reasonable inflexible, if pretty bling, bars might be a bit tricky.

    I'll try and be brief, but the primary aim of a TT bike is to put the rider in the more aero position that they can still push decent power through. All the aero stuff is secondary as the rider has the biggest frontal area.
    If you imagine a good road position and then keeping the rider's angles the same, rotate it forward around the heel so that the rider's back gets to a position more parallel with the ground.

    Road_vs_TT_position.png

    You'll see that the saddle is much further forward (or more accurately, the seattube angle is greater) in order to keep the hip angle sensible enough so that the rider can still pedal. By simply fitting aerobars to a road bike, you'll either have to have the bars so high as to be pointless from an aero perspective, or you'll be practically bent double.

    So, seat as far forward as possible (may even mean turning a layback post round 180 degrees) and bars as low as possible and then see if you can get comfortable. Personally, if you're intent on doing this, I'd look at sourcing a cheap TT frame (Planet X perhaps).
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,140
    Hi MB,

    thankyou for your very informative and useful post, that has taught me a lot of things I did not realise about the difference between TT frames and Road frames which I was not aware of - thanks for that.

    You are correct in that the Felt is a stock road frame, and I take your comment on board about looking for a TT frame.

    At the moment, and as i love my Felt to bits having had it for 7 years, I'll stick with it and see how I get on - I ran it as a road bike with spacers under the bars, so I could put those ontop, and at present I run the stem upwards tilted so on these bars it is downwards tilted, so that will drop me down a fair bit.
    I also have the saddle a fair whack above the height of the bars, even with inverted stem and 3 spacers, so I think at least in that respect it will not be a million miles out.

    I also bought some Deda clip on aero bars, so if I really do not get on with these I can swap back and sell them on, or of course see if they will fit on to a proper TT frame should I end up taking that route.

    Cheers

    Dan
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18