Absolute noob needs some advice/pointers

naike
naike Posts: 5
edited July 2013 in Road buying advice
Hi.
I have a pretty standard cheap bike, but in recent times I've started cycling almost every day, plus I cycle to work as well.
However, I have a few problems, let me start by saying that the derailleurs, gears and chain are the cheapest entry level MTB ones by shimano (Alivio rear, Acera front, hg30 gear thing).

Anyway, they are really worn out and shifting is really jerky and I can't put any significant force on the pedals while I shift gears, I always have to pause in between shifts, and the chain sometimes slides a little somehow (at least that's what it feels like).

Instead of buying buying a new bike which costs a lot of money, I thought about upgrading or at least buying new cheap parts to my bike. The shifters and brakes are fine in my opinion (probably entry level as well) and the frame is pretty light weight, everything is fine at least for my biking standards except the gears etc.

Now, I read somewhere that it's better to have a lower gear range so that you may use a short cage rear derailleur for better shifting, is this true? Also, I think I'm in the right forum section since I don't really do "real" MTBing, I just cycle around the city and some off road bits here and there, and the occasional wheelie or whatever, I do like to mess around and at least try to put the bike to its limits though!
Should I worry about getting MTB parts or is it okay to get stuff intended for road use?
Also what should I look for when buying all these things? I think there's a specific width for the bearing in the middle, chain length/gear range etc.
Edit: I really like my shifting range atm, (I do use them all tbh) which is 3x8, but I can still get a short cage right? I just have to think before shifting.

Thanks!

Comments

  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Well lifting of the the power when shiifting is standard practice abit like using the clutch when changing gear in a car.

    Short cage mech will improve shifting slighly but ensure the drive train is set up properly but a short cage will not work with a triple. Decide what gearing you want and further advise will follow.

    What to look for parts that are compatible which is why I say decide the gearing range you need first but if you are happy with the range yo have why change anything.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • naike
    naike Posts: 5
    Yeah well, I really do think something like a 3x8 is necessary for my use because I'm not really focused on one "style".
    How would the shifting of a 3x8 compare to something with a short cage using cheap parts?
    If there isn't much improvement then I think I'll stick with 3xSomething since I use all gears pretty much.
    Any ideas or recommendations?
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Are you sure you don't just need to perform some maintenance? I.e. replace cables, chain and cassette?
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • naike
    naike Posts: 5
    DesWeller wrote:
    Are you sure you don't just need to perform some maintenance? I.e. replace cables, chain and cassette?

    Yeah it definitely needs maintenance, but I need to replace everything except the derailleurs, but I thought maybe change from my long cage to a short cage for better shifting. So kind of upgrade everything.

    I thought about getting a better chain and cassette at least, but I don't know what is important for smooth shifting.
    ATM my chains skips like a 1/8 of 360deg of a pedal turn when I shift gears.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I'd just fit a new chain and cassette, then with some help from the Park tools website or Youtube, set about indexing your gears so they shift sweetly.

    You can't use a short cage road rear mech and expect it to cope with MTB triple gearing.
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    I find that low-end Shimano gears are very durable, lasting about 2 years of all-year, all-weather commuting of 2x5 miles + weekend rides.
    Rear derailleurs are compatible between road and MTB but front mechs are not. Most road rear mechs lack the capacity to operate MTB gears. There is nothing wrong with MTB rear mechs, even low-end Shimano ones.
    Relieving pressure on the pedals during shifting is good practice. The trick is to make it very subtle and quick. Newbie riders often try to shift at full pressure giving the characteristic loud click of a sprocket and chain being abused.
  • naike
    naike Posts: 5
    How much does the derailleurs affect the shifting?
    Or is the main part the cassette and chain?

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