Specialized Allez Sport to Rose Carbon Pro RS

mykaloon
Posts: 86
I'm about to place an order for a Rose Carbon Pro RS to replace my current bike which is a Specialized Allez Sport.
I'm getting a bit confused on what is the most important measurements when deciding which frame size to go for.
My sizes that I punched into the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator are;
Inseam - 85cm
Trunk- 62cm
Forearm - 33cm
Arm - 66cm
Thigh - 61cm
Lower Leg - 55cm
Sternal Notch - 145cm
Total Body Height - 176cm
My Specialized is a 56cm frame. According to the Rose website I need a 56.1cm frame - the choices from them are a 55 or 57cm frame. Is there more adjustment downsizing and then adding in spacers and longer stem. I've tried to get my head around this but am gradually having to admit defeat! I'm looking for a slightly more aggressive or racy position from what I have on my Specialized.
I've summarised the difference between my existing bike and the 2 Rose frames (1st figure is Specialized, then Rose 55 frame then Rose 57 frame);
Seat tube length - 530mm; 550mm; 570mm
Top tube length - 565mm; 545mm; 565mm
Head tube angle - 73.5; 73; 73.5
Seat tube angle - 73.25; 74; 73.5
Wheel base - 986mm; 985mm; 990mm
Forepart - 591mm; 589mm; 594mm
Chainstay - 405mm; 406mm; 406mm
Head tube length - 170mm; 148mm; 163mm
Stack - 574mm; 549mm; 565mm
Reach - 395mm; 393mm; 398mm
My current bike setup seems ok but it was based on sitting on 2 different sized Specialized frames in the LBS and going with the larger one as I could get the same height with a slightly higher front end. Nothing more technical than that!
I'm getting in a bit of a muddle now so if some of you can give me a few pointers or point me in the right direction it would save me a bit more grief. Just don't want to end up shelling out £1.6k on the wrong sized bike. (Can't stretch to a bike fit as my other half is having kittens already on what I'm spending).
I'm getting a bit confused on what is the most important measurements when deciding which frame size to go for.
My sizes that I punched into the Competitive Cyclist fit calculator are;
Inseam - 85cm
Trunk- 62cm
Forearm - 33cm
Arm - 66cm
Thigh - 61cm
Lower Leg - 55cm
Sternal Notch - 145cm
Total Body Height - 176cm
My Specialized is a 56cm frame. According to the Rose website I need a 56.1cm frame - the choices from them are a 55 or 57cm frame. Is there more adjustment downsizing and then adding in spacers and longer stem. I've tried to get my head around this but am gradually having to admit defeat! I'm looking for a slightly more aggressive or racy position from what I have on my Specialized.
I've summarised the difference between my existing bike and the 2 Rose frames (1st figure is Specialized, then Rose 55 frame then Rose 57 frame);
Seat tube length - 530mm; 550mm; 570mm
Top tube length - 565mm; 545mm; 565mm
Head tube angle - 73.5; 73; 73.5
Seat tube angle - 73.25; 74; 73.5
Wheel base - 986mm; 985mm; 990mm
Forepart - 591mm; 589mm; 594mm
Chainstay - 405mm; 406mm; 406mm
Head tube length - 170mm; 148mm; 163mm
Stack - 574mm; 549mm; 565mm
Reach - 395mm; 393mm; 398mm
My current bike setup seems ok but it was based on sitting on 2 different sized Specialized frames in the LBS and going with the larger one as I could get the same height with a slightly higher front end. Nothing more technical than that!
I'm getting in a bit of a muddle now so if some of you can give me a few pointers or point me in the right direction it would save me a bit more grief. Just don't want to end up shelling out £1.6k on the wrong sized bike. (Can't stretch to a bike fit as my other half is having kittens already on what I'm spending).
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Comments
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The 57 Rose is obviously closest, angles are negliable to your Spesh. Same TT length (important those are both effective toptube lengths) Rose then is 7mm less in the Headtube. (BB heights aren't there though, and if you found the Rose had 10mm less BB height then it would actually have 3mm more headtube).
In answer to Stems and lengthening out, what Stem length are you riding at the moment? If you're riding a short Stem like 100mm or less, at your size you could potentially go for a smaller frame and longer Stem, stem really doesn't want to go longer than 120mm for most people's tastes (at your height and frame size personally Id want the bike to have a 110mm or 120mm stem ideally).
If you consider the smaller Rose you have to consider that seat-tube angle, just in that if your knee over axle is currently correct, the saddle will have to be further back on its rails on the small Rose to achieve the same.
BUT... seeing as you say you don't even know if your current bike is the right size and you don't seem to have much opinion on whether its right or wrong, then there isn't a lot to go on here. So if you're not the kind of person who can do your own bike fit, find someone who can, or pay a shop. Remember everybody rides in different positions, some people sat up like they're starring in Mary Poppins, and some like they're riding a road bike.0 -
Thanks for the pointers mfin.
B-B drop - the stack measurement is the measurement from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube which I think is the reverse or offset of the BB height - ie less stack means more BB height??? In my current Specialized this is given as 574mm, 549mm for the 55 Rose frame and 565mm for the 57 Rose frame. So if I'm understanding this correctly the 25mm difference between my Spec and the 55 Rose frame would mean that this would reduce the effective or comparable headtube by a further 25mm and 9mm for the 57 Rose frame.
Stem - my current set up has a 100mm stem fitted. Rose offer stems in 10mm increments from 70mm through to 140mm so there's scope to go with the longer stem. Does that mean that the reach on the 55 frame would be 393 + 120mm stem = 513mm compared with my current reach of 395 + 100 = 495mm.
Seat tube angle - the rose seat post has a 25mm layback but are you saying that most of this can be resolved by moving the saddle forward or back on it's rails.
Deffo not looking for the Mary Poppins look! Thanks for the feedback so far - greatly appreciated. Will try and digest this...looks like another few late night on the internet tho!
Any other pointers would be welcomed0 -
The BB-Drop part you are talking about affecting headtubes is not what Im saying.
Think of it this way imagine drawing two circles for wheels with two dots for the axles on a piece of paper, and an X where the BB is.
Then on a piece of tracing paper draw 3 dots, one where your bum goes, one where your hands go, and one where the the centre of the BB is.
Now, those 3 points when fitted right will not move in relation to each other from bike to bike.
So, if you lined up the Tracing Paper's BB point with the X on for the BB on the Paper underneath you can see where you're fit is.
(remember, now the tubes of the bike can go anywhere as long as the points all stay put, ie the top tube could start 30mm under the front of the saddle and go all the way to the bottom of the head tube, and the bike would still actually fit you exactly the same!).
Now imagine the BB on a new bike is 10mm lower (it can happen), and you're piece of tracing paper also has to move down 10mm to line up, so, your ass and your hands also have come down 10mm... so you can now see if the lower down bike had the same headtube length you'd have 10mm less of spacers to run... or if you were already 'slammed' then you could do nothing about it but slam it again but you'd actually end up with your hands 10mm higher (unless you compensated with negative rise stem).
Hope that helps a bit.
I never work things out form Reach figures, Im never sure that brands don't calculate them differently.
The saddle rail thing from the 1/4 degree of angle change would mean the distance further back on the rails from where it is now would be about 5mm if that helps.
...from what you are saying though you aren't sure if your current fit is right anyway, so whay not go for a fit?!!!! it is £1600 you're spending, would you spend £50 on a pair of jeans if they didn't fit?
(from my gut reaction and working on the assumption your current bike is dead on, you need the larger 57 rose most likely, unless you are running it slammed with no spacers and want to go lower, in which case Id then start considering the smaller 55 and running it with a longer stem.... BUT... let me re-state this again, you don't sound sure about these things, if you aren't then go get a fit on your existing bike and when there, ask them to pick the right size Rose based on how they've fitted you. A lot of fits will send you away with all the measurements you need to know. Of course, use someone good for the bike fit).0