Bontrager Tubeless Tyres

Lifeboy123

I know the difference between Tubs and Clinchers but what is the difference between tubeless tyres and tubs ?

Has anyone tried the new Bontrager Tubeless Wheels ?

The LBS were demonstrating the puncture resistance of the new Bontrager Race wheels with tubeless tyres, sticking a drawing pin in the tyre to illustrate the puncture resistance provided by the self sealing latex.

They do a conversion kit for my 2012 Bontrager wheels , Ok i know they might not be the best hubs or lightest wheelset but as a quick cheap upgrade it would save 200g and am informed it would improve the quality if the ride. ( maybe a winter option)

Anybody got any experience or is it just a gluey mess I would be letting myself in for?

markhewitt1978

I'm just a bit confused about what happens if you get a puncture that the internal sealant can't seal. On an ordinary tyre this isn't a problem but these are sealed around the edges and hard to remove?

bigpikle

they are tyres WITHOUT any tubes at all, so different to normal clinchers and tubs. They use a special wheel rim or conversion kit (like the Stans No Tubes kit) that allows the tyre to form a complete or near complete air tight seal with the rim. They need a small amount of sealant to complete the air tight seal and also provide immediate puncture protection should you have an issue on the road.

Just like normal clinchers you can add an inner tube if you suffer a serious tyre failure out on the road, but it seems that the vast majority of puncture issues are solved with the sealant. The tyres are also significantly reinforced anyway compared to normal tubs and clinchers so are supposed to puncture less, so they also weigh more than a clincher or tub, although most seem to come in around the same weight of a clincher and tube combo. You can also use a tyre boot or even standard self adhesive patch on the inside of the tyre to plug a puncture and then re-inflate as normal - although this is harder if you have sealant in the tyre as this will affect the glue of the patch.

Many wheels are already tubeless ready - my Mavic Kysrium SLs need nothing and can be used tubeless immediately and the same with various other wheels includig Ultegra tubeless rims and some DT rims.

I dont think you do it for weight saving but the puncture protection is interesting and although the tyre wall reinforcement has an affect, many say they ride better than many clinchers. Speaking from experience the tubeless ready rims can be a total b*tch to get tyres on though and fitting the tubeless tyres with their reinforced beads can also be a challenge the first time they go on, often needing a compressor to get them seated correctly.

Pros and cons - I keep looking at it as I have 2 sets of tubeless ready wheels but limited choice of tyres puts me off slightly.

antonyfromoz

My brother, who commutes 40kms each day in all seasons, has been using tubeless tyres on his bikes for the past couple of years at least. He informs me that they ride really well - especially since he has started using the Schwalbe tubeless instead of the Hutchisons - and the fact that pretty much every puncture seals itself without needing any action from himself is, for him, the clincher (pardon the pun). He carries a tube in case there is a major cut that won't seal itself but to the best of my knowledge has not had to use it. I recall that he had one pretty major cut that needed a bit of the latex dabbed on the outside to finish the seal but otherwise you just continue riding and listen to the sound of the holes closing up as the wheel rotates.... Regarding the fitting of the tyres - I understand that he has sometimes used a compressor to get the initial fit but I think he usually uses a track pump when at home.

maddog 2

I run tubeless. Currently using the Bonty R3s, which are very good. Better+wider+lighter than the Hutchinsons by a bit.

You need a tubeless-compatible rim really (although you can get round this).

Benefits are that you can run 80-90psi safely, i.e. no pinch punctures but rolling resistance is still good. Upside of lower pressures is more grip, comfort and feel. Fitting is pretty easy, especially if you have experience of MTB tubeless.

Only had one tubeless puncture so far and the sealant sealed it. Needed a top up of air but that was it. Just stick a tube in if it needs it.

If you like 120psi then it's not for you.
If you want it superlight then it's not for you, as light clincher+tube is lighter
If you are a plonker in the workshop then it's probably not for you
If you want it cheap then it's not for you
If you want to swap tyres about a lot then it's not for you

but... if you ride on real roads and want to run lower pressures then it's an option.

ugo.santalucia

maddog 2 wrote:

I run tubeless. Currently using the Bonty R3s, which are very good. Better+wider+lighter than the Hutchinsons by a bit.

You need a tubeless-compatible rim really (although you can get round this).

Benefits are that you can run 80-90psi safely, i.e. no pinch punctures but rolling resistance is still good. Upside of lower pressures is more grip, comfort and feel. Fitting is pretty easy, especially if you have experience of MTB tubeless.

Only had one tubeless puncture so far and the sealant sealed it. Needed a top up of air but that was it. Just stick a tube in if it needs it.

If you like 120psi then it's not for you.
If you want it superlight then it's not for you, as light clincher+tube is lighter
If you are a plonker in the workshop then it's probably not for you
If you want it cheap then it's not for you
If you want to swap tyres about a lot then it's not for you

but... if you ride on real roads and want to run lower pressures then it's an option.

Finally a balanced view on the topic...

maddog 2

I do try.

rickwiggans

I moved to Bonty R3's on DA C24's a little while ago, with the help of somebody much younger and better looking than I. Worked out slightly lighter than existing Eastons with Durano tyres/Conti tubes, but the big benefit for me is the reduced running pressure, and consequent massive decrease in road clatter. In fact, I like them so much, my second bike now has R3's on new Ultegra wheels! As maddog says, it ain't cheap though. But, I'm worth it!

maddog 2

rickwiggans wrote:

with the help of somebody much younger and better looking than I.

Rick is correct, in this instance.

rickwiggans

I do try.

markhewitt1978

So; they basically eliminate 'ordinary' punctures so you're only left with major tyre ripping affairs?

lostboysaint

markhewitt1978 wrote:

So; they basically eliminate 'ordinary' punctures so you're only left with major tyre ripping affairs?

And how many of those do you get?

rich164h

Bigpikle wrote:

.... but limited choice of tyres puts me off slightly.

Are you saying that the current offers don't cover your needs? what sort of tyre is missing from the range that's currently available? In only ask as they seem to have options ranging from commuting tyres all the way through to tyres suitable for racing.

maddog 2

Currently there are (in UK):
Hutchinson Atom, Fusion3 and Intensive
Bonty R2 and R3
Schwalbe Ultremo

and elsewhere there are Maxxis, IRC, Spesh but not in the UK, last time I looked.

Small choice it's true. And no 28mm which would be the obvious choice for a commuter. None of the other manufacturers (Mich, Vittoria, Veloflex. Mavic, Conti, Vredestein) have got off their fat a***s and made anything.

markhewitt1978

lostboysaint wrote:

markhewitt1978 wrote:

So; they basically eliminate 'ordinary' punctures so you're only left with major tyre ripping affairs?

And how many of those do you get?

Rough calculations, for my cycling so far -- none

maddog 2

oh and Hutchinson has some 28mm Secteurs in the pipeline but I've not heard much about them.