New wheels, new cassette, new chain. What suprises..

paulmon
paulmon Posts: 315
edited May 2013 in Workshop
I'm going to pick up some new wheels tomorrow (Fulcrum Quattro) along with a new Ultegra 6700 (11-28) cassette and a Ultegra 6701 chain. These will be fitted to my CAAD10 which currently has 105 components and a 12-27 cassette.

What can I expect to have to do as far as tuning and adjustments go or will everything just work (wishful thinking).

Cheers
Paul

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    You fitting them yourself? Fit cassette with any required spacer(s), tighten lockring. Shorten the chain to the right length. Install it the right way round (think Ultegra's directional). Join it properly using either a proper Shimano snap-off joining pin, or a KMC Missing Link or similar. Might have to fine tune the indexing / limit screws but that's about it.
  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    keef66 wrote:
    You fitting them yourself? Fit cassette with any required spacer(s), tighten lockring. Shorten the chain to the right length. Install it the right way round (think Ultegra's directional). Join it properly using either a proper Shimano snap-off joining pin, or a KMC Missing Link or similar. Might have to fine tune the indexing / limit screws but that's about it.

    Yep, I'd like to fit it myself (I might see if the shop will fit the cassette). As for the chain, is there a specific method to determine the correct length for the chain?
  • gr1
    gr1 Posts: 25
    Pass it over the large chainring and large sprocket (i.e. the gear you should never use). Don't put it through the derailleur and then pull the 2 ends together. When you have the shortest length at which you can connect the links (remember that a you need to connect an outer to an inner) then add one complete length. This should leave you enough to be in the large/large combo by accident and not snap the derailleur. Make sure you thread it through the derailleur correctly before joining the chain.

    If you're using a missing link then I would play safe. Leave an extra link or 2 and then connect the chain through your derailleurs. If it is too slack you can always make it shorter and because you're using a missing link it is easy to remove the chain.

    If you're using a connecting pin and don't have a spare you need to get it right first time, or you'll need some more pins.
  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    gr1 wrote:
    Pass it over the large chainring and large sprocket (i.e. the gear you should never use). Don't put it through the derailleur and then pull the 2 ends together. When you have the shortest length at which you can connect the links (remember that a you need to connect an outer to an inner) then add one complete length. This should leave you enough to be in the large/large combo by accident and not snap the derailleur. Make sure you thread it through the derailleur correctly before joining the chain.

    If you're using a missing link then I would play safe. Leave an extra link or 2 and then connect the chain through your derailleurs. If it is too slack you can always make it shorter and because you're using a missing link it is easy to remove the chain.

    If you're using a connecting pin and don't have a spare you need to get it right first time, or you'll need some more pins.

    Thanks for the info. 8) It's appreciated.

    Paul.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I think the conventional advice is as above, big ring / big sprocket / not through the mech, but add two complete links (ie 2 inner and 2 outer links)

    Alternatively Shimano suggest Big ring / Small sprocket / chain through the mech, the 2 jockey wheels should be vertically aligned.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I do small chainring/small sprocket and have the chain as long as it will go. Then check carefully the RD has enough capacity when in big-big (which it should).
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  • t4tomo
    t4tomo Posts: 2,643
    if you are doing the cassette yourself make sure you have the right cassette tool. if you are just fitting it to a new wheel then you don't really need a chain whip - only need for removal.
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  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    Thanks for all the advice. In the end I decided to use the Shimano method as this is the one that made most sense to me. I also found a video on YouTube that explained it really well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ufm19cvrxGs.

    I also opted for a 105 12-25 cassette rather than the 11-28.

    Just in case anyone stumbles across this thread I needed the following additional items:

    Chain tool for splitting and joining
    Cassette lock ring tool
    Spare chain pins (you only get one with the chain)

    I'll also need to buy two new tubes with 80mm valves as the standard 45mm ones are way too small and the 60mm ones I have fit but you cant fit the screw on washer that stops the valve from rattling on the rim.

    Everything appears to work but the one issue I have is the bike is reluctant to move into the smallest cog on the back and when it does its makes quite a bit of noise. The other gears are OK. I've tried adjusting the wheel and I've also try to adjust cable tension but this doesn't work. Is there anything else I can try ?

    Cheers
    PAul
  • vanleapo
    vanleapo Posts: 150
    Sounds as though you need to move the limit screw on the derailleur if it won't go on to the smallest cog.
    Turn it by 1/8 of a turn and try the gears again. Repeat until it you can get on to the smallest cog.
    Then re-check the rest of the gear changes.
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  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    "you cant fit the screw on washer that stops the valve from rattling on the rim."

    Just wrap a bit of insulating tape round the valve stem. A lot lighter than those screw on things that I invariably throw away.
  • paulmon
    paulmon Posts: 315
    vanleapo wrote:
    Sounds as though you need to move the limit screw on the derailleur if it won't go on to the smallest cog.
    Turn it by 1/8 of a turn and try the gears again. Repeat until it you can get on to the smallest cog.
    Then re-check the rest of the gear changes.

    Yep, that was it. I went through the adjustment process detailed on park tools site and its OK now.

    Cheers
    Paul