Successful Time RXS bearing replacement

captain_tiara

If anyone is interested I managed a successful home replacement of sealed bearings in my 3 year old time RXS pedals.

Cost was £5 for new bearings, incl postage.

Presumably the fix will work on other time pedals.

Let me know if there's any interest.

[For a guide on how to, with photos, not offering a service!]

keithc440

I would be interested. Like my RXS pedals.

mitchgixer6

Yeah if you can please post up a guide. My bearings are pretty shot so would appreciate the help. Cheers m

hugo15

Yes, definitely interested.

captain_tiara

I did this, because as usual I did some spring servicing, headset, bottom bracket, new cables, second hand nicer seatpost, and of course the blinking thing developed a squeek I couldn't for the life of me pinpoint. :evil:

Over the winter the bearings half seized, managed to push some grease & WD in & loads of rust residue came out.

So with the squeek & i had a closer look & noticed the play on the bearings. So I thought new pedals probably needed [ I have actually got a new pair in a box as backups] so I've got nothing to lose if it goes horribly wrong.

The biggest problem is undoing them without the tool Time obviously have. Tried various mole grips & things, but there wasnt enough traction, & was starting to shred the plastic. So time to improvise.

A small slip of sandpaper, sanded side inward/on pedal, and a jubilee clip tightened up turned out to be the key. Equal grip all round & no slippage. NB the arrows on the pedals are the tightening direction. I have a vice which i used, grips should work. Be carefull, all threads are plastic & easy to damage.

Clean up the pedal axle & you will notice a small circlip in a groove. At this point the vice was usefull to hold the pedal still [old tip is to use a small piece of soft sheet lead to prevent damage], 2 small flat head screw divers and/or circlip piers if you have any should dothe job. You might have to tweak it back into shape on reassembly.

And then to knock the old bearing off the axle you need a suitable drift, on completion of a quick headscratch and garage rumble I worked out one of the sparkplug sockets out of a set fitted nicely, a 21mm, quick thwack with a hammer while resting on a SOFT piece of wood & as you can see it all came apart nicely. Whatever you use needs to fit near the axle so that the bearing is driven off rather than stressing the plastic housing. The rounded large edge of the socket seemed a good idea. Notice which way round the plastic dust seal is positioned. It has 2 different faces.

A quick interweb search on the bearing numbers came up with AK bearings, £5 delivered!

To press the lot back together you need to strike the internal bearing edge. 15 mm copper pipe was perfect. Use a square cut, new or hack sawed, rather than cut with a circular pipe cutter, because as I found the rounded edge will get caught as it is compressed when you hit it, & then you will panic until you eventually prise it apart. Use soft wood again. Do not over do it , or it will not spin freely & you will have to knock it apart again

Replace circlip. Use sandpaper and jubilee clip again & reassemble.

Voila, serviced pedals. Mine are absolutely fine, spin fine & rotate when you clip out. Have done a few hundred miles no issues at all.

http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Wills ... S%20pedals

PS, to finish the story, the squeek turned out to be the first thing I did, which I was discounting because I'd already replaced, the flipping bottom bracket/cranks. Quick disassembly, clean, reassemble, no squeek. :shock:

But at least the bike's completely serviced!

mitchgixer6

Thanks very much for the walk through. Will give that a bash once I pluck up the courage! Do you have a link for the correct bearings so as I can buy them first? Thanks.

kettrinboy

Worth mentioning especially if you have pedals that are over 3-4 yrs old that when you screw the pedal body back onto the axle put some threadlock on the threads or they could unscrew themselves as your riding, this was actually a mod by Time a few years back, as a few users including me had the pedals separate while riding which was a bit disconcerting while doing 30 mph, if Time have done this there should be a blob of gold paint near the bearing housing.

captain_tiara

I have thrown out the old bearings [and I'm not going to take them apart to have a look!] but the info from my order is;

2 x 6801-2RS 6801RS 61801-2RS Thin Section Rubber Sealed Bearing - 12x21x5mm
6801-2RS (82210)
GBP 1.40

---

Shipping
Standard Delivery - United Kingdom
GBP 1.99

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Total = GBP 4.79
(GBP = British Pounds)

So have a trawl through AK Bearings website, I think the numbers were 6801-2RS. But the dimensions are the final check.

I hear what you are saying about the threadlock. The trouble is getting them apart again if you haven't seated them properly! It did take a 50 mile ride to free them up. If they come apart I'll update the post but TBH the hardest bit is judging how tight to push them without wrecking the plastic threads.

rosiusyves

Thanks for the great dissambly guide. Only thing I did different was to take a inner tube instead of sandpaper and a jubilee clip. Then I mounted it in my bankvise. Great success !!!

You won't believe how much crap there was in the pedal after only 1 year of use (12k km).

willow15

Great post, I now have a pair of useable rsx's.

One thing to add to Captain Tiara's post is if you don't have a vice, put the pedals back on the cranks to get the circlips off.

Kotoshichin

Thank you very much for your manual. Very useful! The idea to use a jubilee clip is great. I replaced the old bearings with SKF bearings 61801-2RS1.