BB30 replacement/fitting

arthur_scrimshaw

My CX requires a new BB and rather than take it to the LBS I'd like to DIY it. As I see it I've got two options, do it the hammer and drift way, or invest in the tools like http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom- ... 0-bbt-30-3 for removal and http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=565 for fitting. This will cost the best part of £70 not including the BB (which I already have)
I always prefer having the right tools although respect anyone who can do the hammer job, I just don't feel happy doing this, also my road bike is also BB30 and so expect to get some use out of the tools, it's CF and the thought of taking a hammer to that fills me with dread.
So are there any other options or lower cost tools anyone would recommend?

TIA

sungod

you don't need to thump with a hammer, it's just gentle taps, use a rubber mallet

this will be fine for removal...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=36371

to fit, use a headset press, or chunky bolt+nut+washers and...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=36370

you may even find you can do it all with fingers, mine are just about doable that way, but if you've got alloy bearing seats probably better to use a tool as it'll be easier to keep things in line

arthur_scrimshaw

sungod wrote:

you don't need to thump with a hammer, it's just gentle taps, use a rubber mallet

this will be fine for removal...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=36371

to fit, use a headset press, or chunky bolt+nut+washers and...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=36370

you may even find you can do it all with fingers, mine are just about doable that way, but if you've got alloy bearing seats probably better to use a tool as it'll be easier to keep things in line

Cheers SG, with the removal tool, I take it this goes behind the bearing and you then drift it out from the back, the metal bar is for holding it in place while you do this? Sure I can rig up a piece of studding to press it all back in.

Jon_1976

The park tool solution wouldn't need to cost £70. You just need to buy the bb30.3 tool and that comes with the plates for refitting (pretty much the same thing sungod linked to). all you need to buy is a threaded rod, nut and washers.

But anyway, I'd get the tools sungod linked to and it's pretty much the same procedure (light hammering) minus a comfy handle and a typically park inflated price tag.

sungod

Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:

Cheers SG, with the removal tool, I take it this goes behind the bearing and you then drift it out from the back, the metal bar is for holding it in place while you do this? Sure I can rig up a piece of studding to press it all back in.

yep, use the bar to hold it while you poke the drift/whatever through from the the other side to hold it in place, on the face you can't see in the picture there's a dished recess to keep the drift centred

a couple of gentle taps is enough to extract a bearing (if it's been loctited may need a bit more)

if you wanted, you could even drill out the bar in the removal tool and use a nut+bolt plus a face plate to create a screw driven extractor

earthvspace4XTuUWcX

When fitting the new bearings, put them in the freezer for awhile first, they shrink a little and are not such a tight fit.

arthur_scrimshaw

Cheers for all the advice guys.

Jon_1976

What length allen key do you use to undo the self extracting crank bolt? I've got a normal length 10mm key and after a quarter turn, the bolt is impossible to turn anymore. I'm pretty strong but this takes the piss. Think I'm gonna need a breaker bar with a 10mm hex bit at this rate :x

arthur_scrimshaw

Jon_1976 wrote:

What length allen key do you use to undo the self extracting crank bolt? I've got a normal length 10mm key and after a quarter turn, the bolt is impossible to turn anymore. I'm pretty strong but this takes the wee-wee. Think I'm gonna need a breaker bar with a 10mm hex bit at this rate :x

The one I use is 170mm long overall. After loosening, the bolt turns about one revolution before it hits the back of the extractor plate. It takes a reasonable amount of force to shift it but not excessive? I use a hex bit with a torque wrench to tighten it, normally to about 55nm, so not a lot of force.

Jon_1976

Thanks Arthur, I've trying to use a normal one (which is about 4", if that). Think I'll have a look in the garage to see if I can find something to extend it.

Just remembered, I dont have a torque wrench anymore :roll: Something else to buy..doh