3 Rides and rear wheel needs tru`ing again

Raffles

Brought the wheel to LBS and had it tru`ed , 3 rides later and its out of shape again :x , one thing I noticed is that what looks to me like a little sleeve which attaches around the spoke nipple has come loose and is sliding up and down its spoke.I dont know if this is relevant or could that contribute to a wheel going quickly out of shape ? The wheels are hand built type, and they have about 8000 miles on them, front is spot on but the rear is causing issues by not staying true. Do you have to have a rebuild done to keep them true or after that mileage is a rear wheel only fit for skip in the council dump ?

jgsi

Do you have a spoke key?
If not go to Halfords now, you have until 8pm and then YouTube trueing and have a go yourself.
Not much to lose basically.

Raffles

my beef with that wheel is that ive had it trued 3 times in an absurdly short period of time, it has about 8000 miles on it and is it a shelf life that expired and the wheel beyond econimcal repair now ?

with the appalling state of uk roads a wee thought came to me to buy a decathlon £35 rear wheel as at least if it goes the same way then £35 aint as bad as trashing £150 for a better wheel :?

desweller

Maybe your LBS is just not very good at truing wheels.

Bike Radar

Raffles wrote:

a little sleeve which attaches around the spoke nipple has come loose and is sliding up and down its spoke.I dont know if this is relevant or could that contribute to a wheel going quickly out of shape ?

If the nipple is broken then it may well need renewing. That may be why it has gone so quickly.

me-109

A little thread lock on the offending nipples (never thought us use that phrase!) may also help prevent them undoing.

cycleclinic

The sleeve is it an eyelet if so it has cracked and cold be the reason why the wheel has gone out of true. A £35 wheel will not last 8000 miles, the hub will be shot in nder half that and the wheel will have bckled badly or a spoke snapped.

Your best option is get the wheel rebuilt with a new rim if the eyelet has cracked.

Threadlocker is not needed if the spokes are at a good tesnion. I have never used threadlocker in any build and I do not spokes nipples unwinding. If something is loose sliding up and down the nipple something is very wrong.

Raffles

the hub on the wheel is 105 and the rim is open pro, can you just replace the rim and keep the 105 hub ?

when i checked the spoke i was referring to, it didnt have the same tension as the others, could a single spoke with less tension result in a buckled wheel ?

on another note, i was going to go out for a blast with the club on mon morning and leave the wheel into LBS when i get back, am i taking any risk in doing this ?

cycleclinic

Yes that is how a wheel buckles -one spoke looses tension so the other pull too much. Yes the rim can be repaced. A OP rim in silver is £40. A wheel rebuild is £25 in most places in cluding mine. Your spokes if they have not snapped can be reused. That wold sort you wheel out. Given your wheel has done 8000 miles then you cold opt for changing all the spokes that would be safer in the long run. Insist double butted spokes like Sapim Race or DT Swiss Competition. Sapim Race are cheaper than DT Swiss Competition spokes. In fact when I build wheels with Open Pro rims I often se Sapim Laser spokes front and non drive side rear and Sapim Race spokes drive side rear. This costs a bit more but is lighter and still leaves the wheel with good stiffness. If you are light enough then you cold use Sapim Laser spokes all round.

If your wheel has been built with plain gauge spokes now is the time to change those. They are only sed to save money.

Ride the wheel buckled and a spoke could snap that is the risk.

racingcondor

I haven't heard of eyelets being replaced so I'm with CycleClinic. New rim time.

Rebuild with a new rim and unless you're tight on cash I'd add in new spokes too. With round spokes the lot should cost you around £100 (probably just under).