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Ksyrium Elite bearing problems?

muzzanmuzzan Posts: 203
edited April 2013 in Workshop
Hi,

So I've a new bike with Ksyrium Elite wheels (2013). Last couple of rides theres been a very noticeable hollow metallic squeak/creak when climbing out the saddle & I'm fairly sure its coming from the front axle. At a guess is this likely to be the bearing needing re-greased? Bikes only done around 300miles would this be normal? I've just been washing the bike with water/washing up liquid using a cloth, no jet washers or anything.

I'm loathe to send the wheel back to Canyon if possible as it will obviously mean the bikes off the road for a period, but if it has to be done fair enough.

Any thought/opinions appreciated.

Posts

  • ADIHEADADIHEAD Posts: 575
    Did you grease the QR's, fork dropouts? You can't grease Mavic bearings as they're sealed.
  • foggymikefoggymike Posts: 862
    It's very unlikely to be the bearing. If it is they are cartridge bearings so can't be serviced - it may well be cheaper to get your LBS to replace them than for you to pay the return postage to get that done under warranty.

    My guess is that maybe your quick releases are not tight enough, or that your bars/stem need tightening, greasing, or both! As it's new you might want to check the STI's are properly tight too. Also check you don't have a loose spoke - unlikely but worth a check. It could even be your bottom bracket rather than wheel as they can work a bit loose after a few rides and need snugging up a bit. It can be hard to locate noises so it's just a case of working through the options. New wheel bearings would be way down my list of suspects though for what you describe.

    Good luck with it! There are plenty of other possibilities so no doubt others will be along to suggest other things to check :)
  • majormantramajormantra Posts: 2,094
    Stems bolts would be the first thing I'd check (and grease) - they can creak horribly given the right conditions.
  • muzzanmuzzan Posts: 203
    Ok, good advice, thanks. I will grease everything I can lay my hands on & see what it does. Couple of other things spring to mind. I had found the stem bolts to be a bit loose & tightened them to the recommended torque. Think the noise started after that, but could just be co-incdence. Also, the noise happens when going over big bumps, not just when under load.
  • MattyDeezMattyDeez Posts: 54
    I had that noise, its somehow gone now.

    Is it like a metal scratching noise?

    Same wheels are you as well. 2011 versions though.
  • muzzanmuzzan Posts: 203
    MattyDeez wrote:
    I had that noise, its somehow gone now.

    Is it like a metal scratching noise?

    Same wheels are you as well. 2011 versions though.

    I suppose you could say its like a metal scratching noise, kind of echo-y metal on metal type noise.

    Anyway was out today & dont think the grease has made any diff. Have read a few others say something similar to the above, ie the noise goes away after a while. So may leave it a bit & see, but hope nothing is doing any damage.
  • 964cup964cup Posts: 1,361
    I get this too (front wheel); seems to be fixable by adjusting the bearing pre-load, but then it recurs. May have something to do with QR tension.
  • dennisndennisn Posts: 10,561
    foggymike wrote:
    It's very unlikely to be the bearing. If it is they are cartridge bearings so can't be serviced - it may well be cheaper to get your LBS to replace them than for you to pay the return postage to get that done under warranty.

    I tend to agree that it's most likely NOT the bearings. Unless you have been adjusting them and don't have a good handle on how to do it.

    I also agree that they can't be serviced. However, they are not overly expensive and not all that hard for the home mechanic to replace. They are press fit but getting them out is no big deal and if you put the new ones in the refrigerator before you install them they go back in fairly easily.
  • muzzanmuzzan Posts: 203
    dennisn wrote:
    foggymike wrote:
    It's very unlikely to be the bearing. If it is they are cartridge bearings so can't be serviced - it may well be cheaper to get your LBS to replace them than for you to pay the return postage to get that done under warranty.

    I tend to agree that it's most likely NOT the bearings. Unless you have been adjusting them and don't have a good handle on how to do it.

    Well....maybe a little ill-informed adjustment going on .... From the first ride out I was getting a squeak when out the saddle. Then after a particularly long wet run I got a noise when spinning the front wheel, similar kind of metal scraping sound. Actually contacted canyon & their advice was to tighten the bearings slightly, so thats what I did using the special tool. That got rid of the non-load noise but then the nois under load seems to have gotten worse. Maybe if I experiment with the bearing tension I can discover the happy medium, but I have to say this seems like a lot of hassle for an expensive set of wheels.
  • ADIHEADADIHEAD Posts: 575
    Sounds like you need to take it into a decent bike shop then - easier and less time than returning it to Canyon. If it needs new bearings you might even be able to get it done under Mavic's warranty through a local Mavic dealership, worth trying.

    I will sway though I've a set of 5 year old Mavic Ksyrium Elites and they've not had anything done to them from new, apart from me cleaning out the Freehub and relubing every once in a while. You're always going to get the odd dud set of bearings - I've just had the ones in my car done under warranty and apparently mine's the first of that model of vehicle the main dealers had to do - just one of those things so don't worry about it, get it checked at a dealership and then enjoy the wheels :D
  • buckmulliganbuckmulligan Posts: 1,031
    Read this:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12910261

    You don't actually need the Mavic tool, you can use a 5mm hex key in both sides of the axle.
  • muzzanmuzzan Posts: 203
    Read this:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12910261

    You don't actually need the Mavic tool, you can use a 5mm hex key in both sides of the axle.

    Thanks, this looks well worth a go, doesnt sound too difficult for my limited skills either. Have actually managed to break the little plastic stubs off the 2 mavic tools anyway, not the most robust of designs.
  • dennisndennisn Posts: 10,561
    muzzan wrote:
    Read this:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12910261

    You don't actually need the Mavic tool, you can use a 5mm hex key in both sides of the axle.

    Have actually managed to break the little plastic stubs off the 2 mavic tools anyway, not the most robust of designs.

    I'm thinking that those plastic tools are made out of plastic for a reason. So that you really can't overtighten things too much. Sort of like the plastic tool Shimano provides for their bottom bracket / crank adjustment. You don't want a ton of pressure on bearings.
  • buckmulliganbuckmulligan Posts: 1,031
    dennisn wrote:
    muzzan wrote:
    Read this:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12910261

    You don't actually need the Mavic tool, you can use a 5mm hex key in both sides of the axle.

    Have actually managed to break the little plastic stubs off the 2 mavic tools anyway, not the most robust of designs.

    I'm thinking that those plastic tools are made out of plastic for a reason. So that you really can't overtighten things too much. Sort of like the plastic tool Shimano provides for their bottom bracket / crank adjustment. You don't want a ton of pressure on bearings.

    This is correct. Mavic state in their service manuals:
    Mavic wrote:
    To avoid damaging the bearings due to over tightening of the adjustment nut, the wrench M40123 is made from resin: a sort of safety valve; the lugs will break before the bearings are damaged.

    Definitely give it a go muzzan, like I said, you don't need the Mavic tool. You realise just how simple those Mavic hubs are when you start taking them apart. There's nothing to them!
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