Di2 not working

moscowflyer
moscowflyer Posts: 540
edited March 2013 in Workshop
My Di2 has completely given up the ghost. Was working fine on Sunday night, then got the bike out this morning and nothing, completely dead. I've charged the battery but still nothing, there's no lights on the junction box and I've checked the cable going into this. Now I have no idea how the wiring works but I had new bars and tape fitted on Friday, so could the issue be a loose connection somewhere caused by this or is it likely to be something a bit more sinister?

Comments

  • Hi

    Do you have no light when you depress either of the levers? It could well be a loose connection at the shifter end as that happened to me when I changed my bartap.

    You should be able to peel back the rubber hood on the side connected to the bars, on the inside of the shifters you'll see a cable running in to a small control box. Make sure the cable is properly pushed in to the socket (it can be quite tough to push all the way in and stay in). Before putting it all back together, you can hold the shifter button and check for the green light on the junction box to make sure this has solved the issue.

    Hope this helps
    Mack
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    My Di2 has completely given up the ghost. Was working fine on Sunday night, then got the bike out this morning and nothing, completely dead. I've charged the battery but still nothing, there's no lights on the junction box and I've checked the cable going into this. Now I have no idea how the wiring works but I had new bars and tape fitted on Friday, so could the issue be a loose connection somewhere caused by this or is it likely to be something a bit more sinister?

    I would put money on it that the cables going into your levers are loose. Seen it before after new tape fitted. If the tape is fitted tight, it exerts a pulling pressure on the plugs that go into the lever sockets.

    When you fix it, make sure you push the plugs in until you hear a positive click. You will have been given a tool to do this easier, but it can be done without.
  • moscowflyer
    moscowflyer Posts: 540
    Hi

    Do you have no light when you depress either of the levers? It could well be a loose connection at the shifter end as that happened to me when I changed my bartap.

    You should be able to peel back the rubber hood on the side connected to the bars, on the inside of the shifters you'll see a cable running in to a small control box. Make sure the cable is properly pushed in to the socket (it can be quite tough to push all the way in and stay in). Before putting it all back together, you can hold the shifter button and check for the green light on the junction box to make sure this has solved the issue.

    Hope this helps
    Mack

    Nope, no light if I press on either the junction box button itself or pressing the leavers etc. I did have a look and the cables seemed to be in ok but I'll go and have another look.

    Cheers both for your suggestions.
  • dawebbo
    dawebbo Posts: 456
    From memory, if you hold down the junction box button for the crash protection mode this will work even if the shifters aren't connected.

    I'd defo double check all the connections, and wires for damage though. Failing that, if your lbs does di2 they will probably have the diagnostic tool which can plug into each component to check them.
  • moscowflyer
    moscowflyer Posts: 540
    dawebbo wrote:
    From memory, if you hold down the junction box button for the crash protection mode this will work even if the shifters aren't connected.

    Yeah, this is what I thought. I'd get a light just from pressing the button on the junction box without having to ride or press the levers in, but there's nothing at all. They've got the diagnostics tool at Sigma so I'm taking it there in half an hour. Thankfully it's not in too big a gear so I can still ride it comfortably.
  • moscowflyer
    moscowflyer Posts: 540
    Ok, so there was a loose cable but the main issue was the battery housing had completely died so needed replacing. Less than 500 miles on that bike too.
  • curium
    curium Posts: 815
    Ok, so there was a loose cable but the main issue was the battery housing had completely died so needed replacing. Less than 500 miles on that bike too.

    Excuse my ignorance, I have no experience with these electronic group sets.

    When you say the 'battery housing' had died do you mean that the battery was no longer holding a charge (similar to what you might expect from a 5 year old iPhone?) or was there physical damage to the structure housing the battery?
  • moscowflyer
    moscowflyer Posts: 540
    The bit the battery plugs into;

    2quhmp5.jpg

    The battery is fine and is still fully charged but for whatever reason, the unit it plugged into was just completely dead, as in not working at all. As soon as the battery and cable were connected to a new one it was fine.
  • dawebbo
    dawebbo Posts: 456
    Weird - I thought this piece was literally just an interface so surprised that it has malfunctioned. At least all is working now.