Campagnolo power torque vs ultra torque or alternative

gwillis

My canyon ultimate al (Athena) has picked up an annoying creak from the power torque chainset when outbid the saddle or when you put any power onto the pedals . I've checked and greased the chainring bolts / spds and checked seat post etc but I fear its something within the design of the chainset itself given a few web searches I've done . I have ultra torque on another bike and its been faultless and wondering if I should swop to this or dies anybody have a solution. I'd consider changing to ultra torque or another chainset make asking as it stops the creaking and is on par with the 11 speed on there at present .

Ta
Gwillis

AlahDamIt

Ive seen something on this in the last couple of days. They were referring to a issue with the wavy washer. Trouble is I cant for the life of me remember what i saw. This may be it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFUN24ehy-k

gwillis

Thanks it mentions ultra torque in the clip but seem to recall power torque having a similar problrm

rowlers

Don't know if it helps but I had this exact issue with my Centaur UT. After many hours stripping & rebuilding I tracked the issue down to the rear QR that wasn't as tight as can be!
The sound was travelling to the BB area!

gwillis

It's worth a punt .... It's driving me crackers ... Out the box the canyon was perfect .... Now its driving me bonkers

rowlers

gwillis wrote:

It's worth a punt .... It's driving me crackers ... Out the box the canyon was perfect .... Now its driving me bonkers

Yep I was the same

gwillis

Just tried it by swapping my rear wheel and skewer ... Still there

gwillis

Just tried it by swapping my rear wheel and skewer ... Still there

paultheparaglider

I had a similar noise on an Ultegra geared Trek, and I solved it by regreasing the rear wheel spindle. I had been 100% convinced at first it was the crank, then decided it was the rear QR not tightened properly. Eventually, a little grease on the wheel spindle sorted it.

gwillis

Will try it later anything is worth a go . I'm also going to try and tighten the non drive side crank arm to see if that helps .

IronWolf

Best to check the headset aswell

gwillis

All checked and it looksike the bottom bracket has to come apart .

Is this all I need to strip it down ? Was going to use a price of cut carton to go behind the crank arm to save buying anything .

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/15928/Park-Tool-CBP3-Campagnolo-Bearing-Puller---Installation-Set.html

rolf_f

gwillis wrote:

All checked and it looksike the bottom bracket has to come apart .

Is this all I need to strip it down ? Was going to use a price of cut carton to go behind the crank arm to save buying anything .

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/15928/Park-Tool-CBP3-Campagnolo-Bearing-Puller---Installation-Set.html

That's all you'd need if you were using Ultratorque!

gwillis

Rolf F wrote:

gwillis wrote:

All checked and it looksike the bottom bracket has to come apart .

Is this all I need to strip it down ? Was going to use a price of cut carton to go behind the crank arm to save buying anything .

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/15928/Park-Tool-CBP3-Campagnolo-Bearing-Puller---Installation-Set.html

That's all you'd need if you were using Ultratorque!

But I'm not its power torque !

the_cyclist_of_catan

Is it possible to upgrade from power torque to ultra torque? Having just had my first PT BB last only 5,000 miles, I'm interested to hear if I can upgrade to something that lasts longer - or at least that I can change myself without buying a tray full of special tools for when it next goes.

spanner239

You're looking at £100+ for a tool up to the job of taking a Power Torque crank off. Don't buy the Park ones they are next to useless for this application. I tried removing a crank with the Park CBP-3 and the bit that turns the spindle bent before the crank even looked like moving! Oh and you need both CBP-3 and CBP-5 to remove a Power Torque crank.

Ultra Torque is much easier to service for the home mechanic but the Chorus crank is twice the price of the Athena alloy one.

gwillis

I'd rather pull my eyes out with spoons than use PT again .... Part of the reason I jumped ships to another group set was due to campag prices and tools req . I've kept my athena ultratorque set up but the power torque had to go

pinarellokid

2 power torque set ups for me much easier to maintain, and BB replacement is ok at only £18 each time,

ugo.santalucia

Rewind and you'll find somewhere I told you PT and UT are cack... get a square taper... Velonutter was selling a Record square taper chainset in the classifieds if you don't want to go Shimano

cycleclinic

P-T is not crap it works quite well and is no more prone to creaks than any other external BB system. 5000 miles is normal for an external BB system.

Have you turned the cranks with the chain off if it feels gritty in any way the bearings are no good. If it feels smooth the bearings are fine. Check the crank bolt and ensure it is tight (remove it and refit it). If the NDS crank arm comes of with the bolt then you have a warranty issue to deal with but that is rare.

If you want longer from the P-T bearings do not use campag bearings, use INA 6805 bearings as the P-T bearings are 7mm wide. This way bearing should be extended somewhat.

Given the tooling required to replace P-T bearings
6805 bearing extracter ( the best is the Race face Tool)
DS bearing extractor - Cyclus do a fantastic tool
bearing press with 6805 drifts for the NDS bearing- threaded bar and 37 mm washer will do but wheels manufacturing do a fantastic tool
DS crack arm bearing drift + driver a suitable washer for a drift and crown race setter is what I use.
NDS crank arm extraction tool) to get the crank arm off.

You will be best taking it to a campag friendly shop. You could post the cranks and NDS bearing cup with BB to a suitable shop I do have all the relevent tools but you will have to get the NDS crank arm off. If you INS or SKF bearings then.