Three stupid questions about stems and bars
barrybridges
Posts: 420
I preface this by saying: you know how you can look at something every day for years, but you don't pay any attention and when someone asks you a question about it, you don't know the answer? Well, that's this question.
I've just replaced an old alloy stem with a new carbon stem on my bike.
My first stupid question is this:
Where the front plate of the stem attaches to the main part (with the 4 allen screws), is it acceptable for there to be a gap between the front bit and the main bit (with the bar visible between), or should those two parts be flush and touching? As I said above, I've had my face bent over the stem on the turbo trainer thousands of times but never paid attention, so wasn't sure whether a gap was acceptable!
My second stupid question is this:
Where I've replaced the stem, I can't screw the top 'cap' onto the top of the fork steerer fully; there's a tiny gap of about 0.5mm when the cap is fully screwed in. I'm assuming that this is because the new stem is a fraction less 'tall' than the old stem, but how do I resolve this? I can't screw the cap any further, but there's still a gap. Does this make any sense?
My third and final stupid question is this:
I'm now looking to replace the bars from the old alloy ones I've got, to something a bit nicer, like this:
http://www.cyclingmailorder.co.uk/cinel ... rrency=GBP
Actually, this is two questions: firstly - in your opinion - would a black stem go with these bars? And secondly - and this is really a very stupid question - if I went for these bars, where would the bar tape end (near to the stem)? I'm assuming that the words 'cinelli' and 'ram' would be obscured by the tape?
I've just replaced an old alloy stem with a new carbon stem on my bike.
My first stupid question is this:
Where the front plate of the stem attaches to the main part (with the 4 allen screws), is it acceptable for there to be a gap between the front bit and the main bit (with the bar visible between), or should those two parts be flush and touching? As I said above, I've had my face bent over the stem on the turbo trainer thousands of times but never paid attention, so wasn't sure whether a gap was acceptable!
My second stupid question is this:
Where I've replaced the stem, I can't screw the top 'cap' onto the top of the fork steerer fully; there's a tiny gap of about 0.5mm when the cap is fully screwed in. I'm assuming that this is because the new stem is a fraction less 'tall' than the old stem, but how do I resolve this? I can't screw the cap any further, but there's still a gap. Does this make any sense?
My third and final stupid question is this:
I'm now looking to replace the bars from the old alloy ones I've got, to something a bit nicer, like this:
http://www.cyclingmailorder.co.uk/cinel ... rrency=GBP
Actually, this is two questions: firstly - in your opinion - would a black stem go with these bars? And secondly - and this is really a very stupid question - if I went for these bars, where would the bar tape end (near to the stem)? I'm assuming that the words 'cinelli' and 'ram' would be obscured by the tape?
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Comments
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Warning: I'm quite new to all this, so take anything technical from me with a pinch of salt
There's a couple of mm gap on mine. If there was no gap, would it still be able to grip?barrybridges wrote:Where the front plate of the stem attaches to the main part (with the 4 allen screws), is it acceptable for there to be a gap between the front bit and the main bit (with the bar visible between)
Did you tighten the stem bolts before trying to do up the top cap, by any chance? If you put the front brake on and rock the bike forwards and backwards is there a little play?Where I've replaced the stem, I can't screw the top 'cap' onto the top of the fork steerer fully; there's a tiny gap of about 0.5mm when the cap is fully screwed in.
Been there, noticed the wobble, then undid it all and tightened the top cap first.Is the gorilla tired yet?0 -
q1 - there should be a gap - make sure the gap at the top is the same as the one at the bottom. you will need to ensure the correct torque especially as it is a carbon bar you want to fit
q 2 - you may need an additional spacer to make up for the difference in stem height - cost pennies from LBS
as above you tighten top cap first before steerer blts - this is the pre-load and takes up any slack in the headset - but don't overtighten as this will damage bearings - just go to the point where there is no play in headset. Again ensure right torque setting for steerer bolts.
q3 - up to you to decide on aesthetics!0 -
^^^^
Good answers. Your LBS will tell you if you need a spacer and probably check the torque on the stem and top cap etc. Worth a visit, plenty that can go wrong if you've not done it correctly. And won't cost much at all.0
