Dead freehub - repair/replace?

Anonymous
Anonymous Posts: 79,667
edited March 2013 in Workshop
I was riding along when I assume my freehub went.

Basically pedalling forwards offers the same resistance as pedaling backwards - none.

I have Ultegra 6500 rear hub (and have a new one on the way as the bearings (and races) are dead anyway) but was wondering if this could be temporarily repaired in the meantime. It looks like a new freehub on wiggle is the same price as an NOS 6500 rear hub anyway, so I won't be replacing it.

I presume the pawls are dead or something?

Any help/ideas appreciated
Thanks

Comments

  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    If it's dead anyway then it probably can't harm it by running it under hot water for a while then spraying with some GT or similar to dispel the water.
    It sounds like the pawls have got stuck ...

    There must be a way to take it apart though ... depends how much you're into fixing broken things ... :)
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Happy to fix any broken things! Guess it's off to the shimano tech docs for me!

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 735626.pdf
    and
    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 611839.pdf

    looks like a simple case of removing allen bolt #14 from the 2nd doc. Famous last words...

    Edit: Just read this:
    Note:
    Do not attempt to disassemble the freewheel body, because it may result in a malfunction.

    Oh well. It can't get any worse than not working at all!
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    New freehub time I think. Like their shifters, Shimano freehubs aren't designed to be user serviceable. The best you can easily do is take it off the hub, pick out the seal from the back, and drizzle lots of light oil in there in the hope it will free up the apparently stuck pawls.

    In case you've not done it before:- remove the QR skewer, remove the non-drive side locknut, spacer and cone, then withdraw the axle from the drive side. Best to fish out all the ball bearings at this point. Then a 10mm allen key should fit into the centre of the cylindrical freehub retainer; anticlockwise to remove, freehub is then off.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    coriordan wrote:
    looks like a simple case of removing allen bolt #14 from the 2nd doc. Famous last words...
    nope that is just the bolt to take the freehub off..
    hope you have a vice.

    it will be needed on the new hub. and may be needed on the old wheel.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Would the new hub not come with freehub attached (I am getting photos tomorrow, but it is NOS and comes with skewer - I know that much).

    If I hold the wheel, will that not be sufficient to resist the allen key removing the freehub? Otherwise I will need to dismantle the wheel just to get the hub in a vice.

    What are my other options for freeing up the pawls?

    Thanks for the help
  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484

    What are my other options for freeing up the pawls?

    You can remove the freehub with a 10mm hex key. The freehub can be stripped BUT you'll have to make your own (simple) tool to open it up. The tool fits on the lugs on the bearing race inside the freehub, the race can be unscrewed and the freehub opened. There are lots of small ball bearings to lose so be careful. It's a bit of a faff but you can inspect and clean/grease everything very well.
  • mamba80
    mamba80 Posts: 5,032
    coriordan wrote:
    Would the new hub not come with freehub attached (I am getting photos tomorrow, but it is NOS and comes with skewer - I know that much).

    If I hold the wheel, will that not be sufficient to resist the allen key removing the freehub? Otherwise I will need to dismantle the wheel just to get the hub in a vice.

    What are my other options for freeing up the pawls?

    Thanks for the help

    all you need do is remove the rear axle and bearings, insert a 10 allen key and hit it with a mallet, they come off easy.
    Pop the seal on the end of the free hub and spray in gt85 etc, once its free and pawls engage, fill it up with some thick oil or m/c chain spray, put the seal back on and reassemble.
    as you say its temp repair and i ve done this few times and it lasts for ages.
    Your new hub will come with a freehub as that is where the rear axle bearings sit - otherwise you'd just buying a shell with no axle or bearings :(
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    A rear wheel would come with a freehub attached, and judging by the pics on various websites, so should a rear hub.

    Yes, just holding the wheel still should enable you to unscrew the central freehub retaining bolt. I think you'd only need a vice if you were determined to dismantle the freehub body
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    coriordan wrote:
    Would the new hub not come with freehub attached
    yes but who is rebuilding the wheel?

    or are you just swapping out the worm parts?

    a new wheel would be cheaper than an unbuild and a rebuild. (almost).
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    The rim is new and the spokes are fine.
    Just gonna stick a new hub in the middle. I'll shop around for a quote on the labour.

    If I can temp repair the current situation I may keep it as a winter wheel and build the new hub up on something snazzy, but again I will see if I can get the current one working 1st, and see what the prices are like.

    Thanks for all the help, much appreciated
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    just swap out all the worn parts. with a bit of time and effort it should not take too long.

    the cover can be lifted and the race tapped out from the shell and the body removed and fitted.

    saves on a strip and rebuild. which will be about 30ish. if not more.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Well my plan is to rebuild the whole wheel on the new hub. (old spokes and rim though)

    Swapping the worn parts will mean a new freehub, new ball bearings and (I think) new races.

    Is it even possible to replace the races? I thought if these were gone then it's for the bin (as some people have advised). I know the cones can be replaced....but races too?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    yes. and there would only be one as the other is in the body.

    it is not a service part but as you have all the bits in the new hub.

    it is unlikely the LBS would do it as they would want to charge for the unbuild and rebuild.

    when sorting the scrap we used to strip the hubs right down. and on problem wheels swap races out as needed if there were other probs. (talking shimano hubs here).

    anything is posible with time and thought.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    Do you have a 14 mm Allen Key?
    I remember buying the 14 bit for my ratchet set to fit a Power Torque chainset... I'm pretty sure it was 14... it seems a bit big for a freehub though
    left the forum March 2023
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I am getting a proper toolkit in the next few days, so will be able to remove the freehub and give it a clean.
    Annoyingly a replacement is about 40 quid - the same price for a brand new NOS 6500 hub, so I have a brand new one on the way as well. Hopefully I can squeeze some life out of this one. Sadly the bearing cups are also dead (as you well know!) so I know that it's a question of time before it's for the bin.

    If I can eek some life out of this one, I will keep it running (with new bearings too) and keep the new hub in a spares box. In an ideal world I want it built up on an Archetype rim, but this is just a dream at present!
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    10mm for Shimano Freehub
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    coriordan wrote:
    I am getting a proper toolkit in the next few days, so will be able to remove the freehub and give it a clean.
    Annoyingly a replacement is about 40 quid - the same price for a brand new NOS 6500 hub, so I have a brand new one on the way as well. Hopefully I can squeeze some life out of this one. Sadly the bearing cups are also dead (as you well know!) so I know that it's a question of time before it's for the bin.

    If I can eek some life out of this one, I will keep it running (with new bearings too) and keep the new hub in a spares box. In an ideal world I want it built up on an Archetype rim, but this is just a dream at present!

    Yes, it's the reason at the time I advised you to replace the broken rim but not upgrade to something more pricey... the hub is usable, but it's not worth a full rebuild.
    Replacing balls, cones and races as you would need to do a proper job is going to be more expensive than getting a new hub as you are getting anyway, unless you get access to some magic box of spares in some jumble sale or so.

    I am always torn between advising Shimano hubs, which last longer, but they are a pain to revive once they are gone or hubs with sealed bearings, which last less, but can be revived instantly
    left the forum March 2023
  • pete.whelan
    pete.whelan Posts: 788
    Freehubs, especially Shimano ones are easy to take apart and reassemble. I have a little jig /tool to take them apart. Generally get a few more years use out of them. Campag ones are very easy to do, take sealed bearing out and replace.
    Recipe: shave legs sparingly, rub in embrocation and drizzle with freshly squeezed baby oil.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    yeah - that's the thing. I think I will reuse the old hub on the current Ambrosio rim, but replace all the bearings (maybe cups if I can find some cheap) but leave the cones a bit looser and live with the slight movement and then hopefully it will last longer - assuming I can get the freehub to work.

    Not sure what the do with the brand new hub yet. If the freehub on the old hub cannot be revived then it's a rebuild, which is a shame.