Chorus 11 - sticky right thumb shifter
shamrock134
Posts: 714
Hey,
Hoping some Campag gurus might be able to help me out with sorting out this problem. If it's just down to some small adjustments I'd rather do it than pay an LBS.
Basically, very occasionally my right thumb shifter will stick preventing me from shifting to a higher gear at the rear. Shifting down a gear then back up again fixes it but obviously it's slightly annoying.
I followed the official Campag instructions on adjusting the rear derailluer (http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/do ... 3_2013.pdf) and shifting is generally fine except for this problem. One thing I find a bit ambigious in the instructions though is on pg24 where it says "Position the chain on the 5 degree sprocket counting from the smallest". 5 degree sprocket? :?
Any ideas? It's all well lubed up too.
Cheers
Hoping some Campag gurus might be able to help me out with sorting out this problem. If it's just down to some small adjustments I'd rather do it than pay an LBS.
Basically, very occasionally my right thumb shifter will stick preventing me from shifting to a higher gear at the rear. Shifting down a gear then back up again fixes it but obviously it's slightly annoying.
I followed the official Campag instructions on adjusting the rear derailluer (http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/do ... 3_2013.pdf) and shifting is generally fine except for this problem. One thing I find a bit ambigious in the instructions though is on pg24 where it says "Position the chain on the 5 degree sprocket counting from the smallest". 5 degree sprocket? :?
Any ideas? It's all well lubed up too.
Cheers
0
Comments
-
Have you checked that bar tape and hoods aren't fouling the lever internals?Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
-
I'm not sure how I'd do that! (read: noob)
But those things have been the same since I got the bike, is it likely they have caused this recent issue?0 -
I've had a thumb lever stick a little - because the rubber hood was fouling the lever. All it does, though, is make the lever a little slow to come back up into position.
if I've got the OP right, the thumb lever actually gets jammed so that it can't be pushed down. the only way to release it is to use the finger lever to shift down one, then the thumb lever starts working again. Is that the case?
If it is, I'm afraid I've no idea what causes it - but it no longer happens since I changed cassette. It won't be the cassette change that fixed it though - more likely resetting up the rear mech and cable tension.
Oh, and they mean having the chain on the fifth sprocket in from the smallest (or sprocket 7 if counting from the largest). With the chain there, and also on the large chainring, then the chain is in the same plane as the large chainring and it makes it simpler to line it all up to check the jockey teeth are level with the sprocket.0 -
shamrock134 wrote:One thing I find a bit ambigious in the instructions though is on pg24 where it says "Position the chain on the 5 degree sprocket counting from the smallest". 5 degree sprocket? :?
5th sprocket from smallest. Probably comedy Italian translation glitchery.Faster than a tent.......0 -
@g00se - Yes that is correct. You can't actually press it down. I too experience the delayed return on my left thumb shifter but that isn't a huge issue as never I've needed to rapidly change at the front down-up-down.
I did guess it meant 5th along but I still must have messed up a bit when trying to dial it in. I'll give it another go. There is also something confusing in the front mech guide that says the cage should be 1.5 ÷ 3mm from the large chainring. :?
Another noob question, but since I can use the barrel adjuster by the rear mech to adjust cable tension, what are the Jagwire adjusters near my stem for? Do I just ignore the one for the rear and only use it for the front?
These:
(http://www.excelsports.com/image/Jagwir ... usters.jpg)
Thanks for your help so far guys! Got to learn this stuff to avoid paying silly LBS bills.0 -
Check the cable inside the shifter to make sure it hasn't started to fray.- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
shamrock134 wrote:There is also something confusing in the front mech guide that says the cage should be 1.5 ÷ 3mm from the large chainring. :?
Another noob question, but since I can use the barrel adjuster by the rear mech to adjust cable tension, what are the Jagwire adjusters near my stem for? Do I just ignore the one for the rear and only use it for the front?
The 1.5-3mm is the height of the lower edge of the derailleur cage above the teeth when in the big ring. Too close and the chain will jam between the cage and the ring.
The adjuster on the rear I use to align the mech - ie to do the 5th sprocket setting. Obviously you can turn that whilst you have your eye in on the alignment. The barrel adjusters you can use if need be on the road to tweak if you find the gears aren't spot on but really you only need the one for the front mech (and my Look only has the one).Faster than a tent.......0 -
Thanks again. I'll try adjusting it again more carefully and report back after my next ride.
Re the front mech instructions: So it should be a dash indicating the range of suitable distances not a divide by symbol? Bloody translations!0 -
shamrock134 wrote:Basically, very occasionally my right thumb shifter will stick preventing me from shifting to a higher gear at the rear. Shifting down a gear then back up again fixes it but obviously it's slightly annoying.
I have the Super Record levers, and I have this exact same problem!! Have done over 500 miles and the right hand thumb lever occasionally gets stuck exactly as you describe. I think it depends on how you shift, must be something to do with the timing. I too have to change down before I can change up when it sticks. I hope it will alleviate itself as the indexing mechanisms wears in.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0