Changing an inner tube
Comments
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SmoggySteve wrote:<stuff>
If you really think that its some sort of conspiracy to get more money out of us then i pity you for your paranoia. Some have them, some don't. Its called consumer choice.0 -
Carbonator wrote:keef66 wrote:The dust caps I think are useful only while the tube sits in my seat pack; they prevent the end of the valve rubbing a hole elsewhere in the tube. Once the tube is installed, the dust cap goes too.
If they are nice yellow Continental ones, can you send them to me
Indeed they are; I'll have a look on the garage floor tonight, see how many I can round up.0 -
The cycliist world sheep mentality never ceases to annoy me. Actually no, it is the sheep mentalitly of the human race as a whole that annoys me. Most lemmings just follow the general consensus without giving it any real thought for themselves. Repeaters blindly spouting rhetoric. 'LBS' this. 'Valve Nut' that. 'Clipless t'other'.
Just listen to yourselves!!
I swear if Wiggo swore by valve nuts the majority on here would be all like "yeah valve nuts are the shiiiz..."0 -
Bustacapp wrote:The cycliist world sheep mentality never ceases to annoy me. Actually no, it is the sheep mentalitly of the human race as a whole that annoys me. Most lemmings just follow the general consensus without giving it any real thought for themselves. Repeaters blindly spouting rhetoric. 'LBS' this. 'Valve Nut' that. 'Clipless t'other'.
Just listen to yourselves!!
I swear if Wiggo swore by valve nuts the majority on here would be all like "yeah valve nuts are the shiiiz..."
So which side of the great debate are you on then? Valve nuts or not?0 -
As no-one else has put it up I'll have to. This reinforced my view, as opposed to putting the idea in my head. Every valve nut I've had since arr wurrr a lad has gone in the bin, including one only last night. I still have the yellow cap though - £4.99 to the first in the queue for it.
Rule 60
Edit to add No-one cares really.0 -
SmoggySteve wrote:This is my process using clinchers and folding tyres
What's the difference between the two ?Science adjusts it’s beliefs based on what’s observed.
Faith is the denial of observation so that Belief can be preserved0 -
MattC59 wrote:SmoggySteve wrote:This is my process using clinchers and folding tyres
What's the difference between the two ?
Must be at least a Billion in R&D0 -
Before you reach for the bin make sure your tube valve is long enough for the rim depth-Ive seen many riders with the wrong size valve and the valve nut might just hold it enough to get a pump on it.Whats the solution? Just pedal faster you baby.
Summer B,man Team Carbon LE#222
Winter Alan Top Cross
All rounder Spec. Allez.0 -
SmoggySteve wrote:This is my process using clinchers and folding tyres.
Taking the old one is already off. I slightly inflate the new tube. Place it onto rim and tighten the valve nut to keep the tube still.
Place new tyre onto rim and using thumbs only , push the tyre back onto the rim. Go along the whole tyre looking for any bumps or raised areas that could be the tube being nipped and then inflate to around 30 40 psi. Check again and loosen the valve nut slightly. Pump up to required pressure and check again. Tighten up bolt on valve. Done.
P.s As there as different tyres and rims there is no 1 size fits all way.
disagree with you ref the valve nut, I wouldn't use one anyway and certainly wouldn't fit it before putting the tyre on, the valve area is a classic place to get the tube pinched between the tyre bead and the rim, you need to be able to push the valve back into the tyre to ensure it's not trapped.0 -
Arthur Scrimshaw wrote:SmoggySteve wrote:This is my process using clinchers and folding tyres.
Taking the old one is already off. I slightly inflate the new tube. Place it onto rim and tighten the valve nut to keep the tube still.
Place new tyre onto rim and using thumbs only , push the tyre back onto the rim. Go along the whole tyre looking for any bumps or raised areas that could be the tube being nipped and then inflate to around 30 40 psi. Check again and loosen the valve nut slightly. Pump up to required pressure and check again. Tighten up bolt on valve. Done.
P.s As there as different tyres and rims there is no 1 size fits all way.
disagree with you ref the valve nut, I wouldn't use one anyway and certainly wouldn't fit it before putting the tyre on, the valve area is a classic place to get the tube pinched between the tyre bead and the rim, you need to be able to push the valve back into the tyre to ensure it's not trapped.
Again, read what I say. I use the valve nut to hold it onto the rim while I fit it. I do then loosen it off before I put any high pressure into the tube. It works for me and I have never pinched a tube. If you don't like my way, fine. It was a general guide. I prefer also to keep the nut on as it helps when I put the mini pump on it if required. If you want to throw them away I couldn't care less. I just know that in over ten years of changing tyres this way I have found an effective method of changing an inner tube and I can do so from start to finish in under 5 minutes. In a race this could make a big difference.0 -
Cancelled my post0
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Thought I would dig up this old thread that debates the need for the nut on a threaded presta inner tube valve.
Some have a ridge on one side. Is this so that you can use a presta valve/tube with a schrader rim/valve hole?
If so I am glad I did not thtow them away after all :lol0