Wheel building

Gurner

Afternoon guys and girls.

I'm looking for a few pointers from people that build or have built wheels. I last built a wheel from scratch over 15 years ago as a spritely teenager, which really constituted me completely disassembling a cheap pair of MTB wheels and reassembling them.

Fast forward to now, and I recently thought that I'd like to try this out again. Bearing in mind that I'm quite proficient and technically minded, would you plump straight for the wheels you'd like to build? Being risk averse (I'm an actuary by trade) I though I should maybe start out on a Novatech/105 to Open Pro type front wheel and see how it goes, but then I'm stuck with a wheel I don't need. Other option is to go straight for the Tune/Nemesis front and rear combo, which could end up in tears. Either way, I'm £70 down from a wheel I won't use or a knackered Nemesis.

Is it really that hard? I don't want to be misled by false boyhood memories!

ride_whenever

It's easy, take your time and double check everything as you lace it up. Worses happens and you can't do it then take them to your lbs.

Alternatively ask your lbs if they'd mind taking you though it.

schweiz

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

Buy the book, it's 9 quid and if you can read, you've got a little common sense, a basic understanding of geometry and trigonometry and bucket load of patience, you'll have your first wheel built and trued within an evening. As Roger Musson says on his website "actually wheelbuilding is easy, but other people, especially those running wheelbuilding courses like to convince you otherwise and that you need training"

Monty Dog

As long as you start with a fairly conventional build i.e. 32 hole, 2 or 3 cross and shallow rims you should have few problems if you take your time. It starts getting a bit trickier with 20 hole carbon rim and bladed spokes where the consequences of getting the tension out of whack is usually an expensive mistake. You should have few problems with a quality rim like a Nemesis IME. Get yourself a decent spoke key too - one that engages the nipple on 4 sides, particularly if using alloy nipples e.g. Pedros

Gurner

Cheers for the info guys. I'll pick the book up (though may wait for his 6th edition, I'm in no rush).

I've got four-sided spoke keys and this will be a 32/36 F/R combo with brass nipples and DT Comps, so nothing "exotic". I might opt for Hopes rather than Tunes too, I've ridden them for years on mountain and road bikes and the 100g saving on the Tunes probably isn't worth the money when the lightest I ever am is 95kg.

I'll report back on the process too, once I begin.

ugo.santalucia

Have a look at my blog too, I have put together my thoughts on spokes, hubs, rims and general assembly

http://paolocoppo.drupalgardens.com/

Toolwise, I suggest you invest in a tension gauge... it is the most important tool, together with the spoke key... you don't need a fancy truing stand, the accuracy of my wheels built with a 400 pounds truing stand is pretty much the same I achieved with a 50 pounds one, it just makes the job a bit faster.

Gurner

Cheers Ugo. I do have a Park tension gauge (with the conversion table for different spokes) which I currently use on the wheels that I've trued up and re-tensioned. My truing stand is just a Minoura one, nothing expensive.

EDIT: Actually Ugo, I've been through your blog before. I very much liked your thoughts on spoke selection.

ugo.santalucia

Gurner wrote:

Cheers Ugo. I do have a Park tension gauge (with the conversion table for different spokes) which I currently use on the wheels that I've trued up and re-tensioned. My truing stand is just a Minoura one, nothing expensive.

EDIT: Actually Ugo, I've been through your blog before. I very much liked your thoughts on spoke selection.

I can definitively recommend the cheap and cheerful Alpina (ACI) DB... I have still to have a broken Alpina spoke

Gurner

Where would you recommend shopping for such spokes (and head washers, should I need them)?

cycleclinic

Ugo blog i pretty good really. I had though about writing one then I saw his no point in repeating it.

I don't think you will harm the rim or the hub not matter how hard you try. If you ramp the tension up you will round of the spoke nipple before you pull a spoke through. A spoke tension gauge is a good idea, I use mine all the time it allows you get even tension and avoid that low tension NDS spoke that you will get if you try and tension by feel. A Park TM-1 is enough. A cheap jig is all you need. If you are handy with some MDF you could make your own.

For spoke Sapim Race or DT comps need almost everyones needs. Use lasers or revs if you want to reduce weight a bit. Thin spokes are better for lighter riders. I tend to build alot of road wheels with Sapim laser front and NDS rear and Spaim race spokes drive side rear but sometimes race spokes all round. ovalised or bladed spokes are less common are far more fidley.

ACI spokes are very good as are pillar. These are the four top spoke manufacturers.

Spoke prep is important but not time comsuning. Some use linsead oil. I dip spoke threads in 3 in 1 oil. Seem to prevent wind up and spokes do not seem to loose tension.

ugo.santalucia

thecycleclinic wrote:

Ugo blog i pretty good really. I had though about writing one then I saw his no point in repeating it.

I don't think you will harm the rim or the hub not matter how hard you try. If you ramp the tension up you will round of the spoke nipple before you pull a spoke through. A spoke tension gauge is a good idea, I use mine all the time it allows you get even tension and avoid that low tension NDS spoke that you will get if you try and tension by feel. A Park TM-1 is enough. A cheap jig is all you need. If you are handy with some MDF you could make your own.

For spoke Sapim Race or DT comps need almost everyones needs. Use lasers or revs if you want to reduce weight a bit. Thin spokes are better for lighter riders. I tend to build alot of road wheels with Sapim laser front and NDS rear and Spaim race spokes drive side rear but sometimes race spokes all round. ovalised or bladed spokes are less common are far more fidley.

ACI spokes are very good as are pillar. These are the four top spoke manufacturers.

Spoke prep is important but not time comsuning. Some use linsead oil. I dip spoke threads in 3 in 1 oil. Seem to prevent wind up and spokes do not seem to loose tension.

If you want to write on my blog, you are more than welcome... As long as you stop using predictive text...

cycleclinic

It not predictive text it my typing skills. they are non existant.

Gurner

Gurner wrote:

Where would you recommend shopping for such spokes (and head washers, should I need them)?

Can I ask for some pointers on where to buy spokes etc plede guys?

Monty Dog

Sdeals.com do ACI, Sapim and DT spokes mail order
Specialists like Paul Hewitt in Leyland have good stocks but you'll have to place a telephone order.
If looking for things like Sapim CX Rays, try Starbike in Germany as they sell them singly at 2 Euros again a UK price of £2-£2.50 each.

schweiz

http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/index.php?cPath=606

ugo.santalucia

Gurner wrote:

Gurner wrote:

Where would you recommend shopping for such spokes (and head washers, should I need them)?

Can I ask for some pointers on where to buy spokes etc plede guys?

Depends what you want...
ACI at sdeals.com or cyclebasket
DT swiss... buy them from Germany at Rose bikes, they do singles at a reasonable price
Sapim: there are a few online retailers, none of them particularly well stocked, for those you are better off asking shops who build wheels... Just Riding Along might be the one with the better online presence. Brick Lane Bikes have them too

I recommend ACI if the wheels are for you and you don't have a big budget

Gurner

Cheers guys.

cycleclinic

If you need sapims I may be able to help. I have alot of them in stock in a variety of lengths from 281mm to 299mm in lasers and race spokes in 286-302mm and a fair range of CX-rays. Alot of 26" MTB sizes too. Other length I buy when I need.

Spa cycles also do sapims also.