SPD-SL shoe

richsieb
richsieb Posts: 137
edited January 2013 in Workshop
I currently have Spd-sl cleats attached to my road shoe. The positioning of the cleat is fine, however on the left shoe I can hear the other bolt sliding with each pedal stroke. This isn't happening with the right shoe, and I've tightened the bolts as much as I can I believe. Can anyone shed any light on the cause of this sliding?

Comments

  • lotus49
    lotus49 Posts: 763
    richsieb wrote:
    I currently have Spd-sl cleats attached to my road shoe. The positioning of the cleat is fine, however on the left shoe I can hear the other bolt sliding with each pedal stroke. This isn't happening with the right shoe, and I've tightened the bolts as much as I can I believe. Can anyone shed any light on the cause of this sliding?
    There is something a little odd about this. It's not possible for the cleat to move only in relation to one bolt and also you say you hear it moving but don't mention that you can feel it. If the bolts (and it would have to be more than one bolt) are not holding the cleat properly in position, you would feel the cleat moving in relation to the shoe - is it?
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    Sorry, I didn't explain that very well. The shoes I have (Spiuk ZS11R) fit both type of cleats. It has the SPD-SL holes which i use, and another hole with another fastening (Can't find the name) which slides back and forth in the shoe. It is this other cleat fastening which is not in use that i can hear on the left shoe while pedalling. I hope that makes it clearer. sorry :L
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    So the alternate fixing is sliding around in its slot, under the cleats that you have fitted?
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    Yeah, it's only on the one though. Wasn't sure if it's something i've done wrong in the fastening of the cleat or something. :roll:
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Can't see how as the spd-sl use the three in a triangle so all you can do is bridge over the middle fixing in the slot (if that makes sense).

    Would annoy the hell out of me though if I could feel/hear it moving about.

    How about applying some glue to it (stop it rattling) if you never need the alternative fixing??
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    Yeah think i may do something like that. I really started noticing it when I was on the turbo and It could be heard during quite parts of the music I was listening to and now it's really driving me crazy. Cheers for your help!
  • ellj22
    ellj22 Posts: 122
    Remove your innersole and check to see if you can access the top of this unused fitting, most shoes you can. You may have to pull back a flap on the inside of the shoe. Most shoes do this to allow replacement of fittings (if they round out or corrode). You can then simply remove the unused fitting, it will be similar to a captive nut or a plate with a threaded hole. If this is not possible then remove your cleat and super glue it to prevent movement.
  • CRAIGO5000
    CRAIGO5000 Posts: 697
    I had the same issue with my LG shoes which can accommodate both types of cleat too. I couldn't get to the SPD cleat from under the innersole, so I removed the SL trangle cleat and then cut some small rubber seal off something I found in the garage (literally use anything that is waterproof and light such as a cut up bit of an old inner-tube) and stuffed it into the slot to prevent the inner of the cleat mount from slipping up and down. I then put my SL cleats back on and it's been fine ever since.
    Ribble Stealth/SRAM Force
    2007 Specialized Allez (Double) FCN - 3
  • declan1
    declan1 Posts: 2,470
    I think you're talking about an SPD fitting plate. If so, just take out the insole of the shoe and remove the metal plate underneath it :)

    Road - Dolan Preffisio
    MTB - On-One Inbred

    I have no idea what's going on here.
  • migrantwing
    migrantwing Posts: 385
    You may find, as I did, that when you open up the shoe (all clips and straps undone, insert taken out, and tongue pulled out) that the square cut-out to access the fitting plate is hard to open up. I used a utility/Stanley blade to score over the existing outline in the inside sole, and then was able to flip it open to get to the fitting plate. You can then adjust or take it out, if you want to.

    Below is a video that actually shows the inside of a shoe and the plate. Albeit at a terrible frame rate.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SZEdKSiy3k
    Ghost Race 5000 (2011) Shimano 105 Black
    Carrera TDF (2007)

    http://www.bike-discount.de/#

    http://www.bike24.com/
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    Cheers for all the responses guys, just had another turbo session with the incessive clicking so am doing it now. will check back later ;)
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    nope, mine is all stitched in with mesh vents all over it, looks like i have to remove the cleat and just stuff it to stop the movement
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Put a little bit of blue tack in there or something, it wont take much to stop it moving I wouldnt have thought.
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    I used an allen key to basically derail the piece of metal that was sliding, hopefully it should stay quiet now .Thanks for the tips all! :D
  • TheRealGuybrush
    TheRealGuybrush Posts: 125
    Just a quick note, I imagine that when you say "derail" you mean that you pushed the cleat plate up a bit and to the side?

    That may mean that the plate is pushing up against the insole (and then, the underside of your foot) which could cause you quite a bit of pain if it's mis-shaped the inside on the shoe. You may not be able to feel it if your just walking around but on a longer ride it may become very apparent. The earlier suggestion on a bit of Blu-tac is a much better idea.

    Also, are you sure that you cannot access the plate from underneath the insole? Most shoes LOOK like you cant get in there, but when you look a little closer with a torch, etc you can see that most of them are slightly perforated and you can open up the base of the shoe with a small knife to remove the plate.
  • migrantwing
    migrantwing Posts: 385
    TheRealGuybrush wrote:
    ...Also, are you sure that you cannot access the plate from underneath the insole? Most shoes LOOK like you cant get in there, but when you look a little closer with a torch, etc you can see that most of them are slightly perforated and you can open up the base of the shoe with a small knife to remove the plate.

    +1
    Ghost Race 5000 (2011) Shimano 105 Black
    Carrera TDF (2007)

    http://www.bike-discount.de/#

    http://www.bike24.com/
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    Known of same thing happening with Diadora shoes. One way that was suggested to stop the SPD plate sliding was to put a cleat bolt into one of the holes and tighten it before placing the SPD-SL cleat on top. Making sure that the bolt is fastened down enough so it doesn't impede the cleat itself.
  • richsieb
    richsieb Posts: 137
    Just a quick note, I imagine that when you say "derail" you mean that you pushed the cleat plate up a bit and to the side?
    Yeah, it seems okay, but I will have a proper look next weekend before I wear them again. If I can't get to the cleat from the inside of the shoe I may give this blue tac a go.
  • TheRealGuybrush
    TheRealGuybrush Posts: 125
    It may be perfectly fine, and you may never have an issue. However these things can make themselves know after many, many rides and you wonder what that pain in your foot is.

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