New chain slipping

msideb

So i've just replaced the original chain on my Triban 3 after around 1300 miles. Had no problems with it, but the chain wear tool was indicating it needed changing. The new chain is now slipping a lot on the smaller rear cogs, with no problems on the larger ones. This seems consistent with the cassette having worn down. I'm just a bit surprised that its worn down with so few miles though, is this normal? Any tips on extending the life of the cassette? I've been cleaning and lubing the chain fairly regularly.

Also, seeing as i wasn't having any problems beforehand, im tempted to just put the old chain back on and make do with that until it starts skipping. It's not like it matters if the cassette is getting more worn down seeing as it looks like i'll have to replace it anyway! Is there any obvious problem in doing this?

Thanks in advance for any help!

lef

Yes sounds like the cassette is worn. It's not that normal mileage wise but I have experienced similar some years ago. You may have been cross chaining alot and using that end of the cassette considerably more. Yes I would just put the old chain back on however check first that there isn't a stiff link in the new chain.

declan1

It's probably an idea to get a new cassette.

ADIHEAD

Does sound strange. I'd disagree that you need to change the cassette with every chain, unless of course the chain is extremely worn, ie. 1%plus. Personally I'd put the old chain back on until you've got a new cassette. I'd be worried about wearing the front chainrings if the old chain wears too much more though. I don't know the bike you speak of but perhaps it had a cheap cassette fitted as standard? I normally get 3 chains to a cassette. When I used to use Shimano 10sp chains they could wear out in less than 1000 winter miles. KMC's on my dry bike last over 3000 though.

gezebo

Agree just stick the old chain back on.

Triban is a good bike for money and is fitted with lower price components so I'd be tempted to leave it run and replace chain, cassette and chainrings in one go later.

As for how long it should last, well how long is a piece of string?! Depends on your weight, power output, riding style, weather, terrain...

Buying more expensive components won't necessary increase component life, just reduce weight and increase performance.

Barbarossa

Did you adjust the length of the new chain?

Did you get the right spec. chain?

giropaul

My experience is that a chain may "last" (i.e. not require replacing) for 1,000 to 2,000 miles in summer when it's dry, and if it's kept clean.

In winter, with wet and, most importantly grit, my measuring device tells me that chains can need rplacing well before even 1,000 miles.

maddog 2

I get quite a bit more than 1000 miles out of a chain.... but then I'm a chain cleaner.

The smaller sprockets have less teeth (obviously...) so the load is spread over fewer teeth, increasing wear rates. Try and set your gearing up so that you are in the middle of the cassette more of the time. Or change gear more often.

sungod

i'd put the old chain on and run it until the chain/cassette reach the end of reliable use, then replace both

using a ruler to check for chain wear can be more reliable, if you measure the current chain (choose a pair of rivets 12 complete links apart, the distance will be around 12" apart) you can check results vs. the chain wear tool, make sure the chain is tensioned

when the distance reaches 1/16" past 12" then it's time to order a new chain, more than 1/16" will start to accelerate cassette wear, by 1/8" the cassette will be badly worn

msideb

Thanks for all the replies, some useful information!

I split the chain to make it the same size as the old one, and it's the right type (8 speed) so don't think that's causing the problem. Also checked for a stiff link, but i couldn't find one and its slipping a lot more than when i've had a stiff link before.

I've ordered a new cassette, so i'll keep a better eye on the new chain and hopefully it'll last a bit longer if i replace the chain as soon as needed. Until it arrives i've put the old chain on which is working fine.

Yossie

Stick the old chain until the end of the winter - this weather will jazz up the new one up in no time unless you get all anal on it.

Give the new chain a really good clean and oil when you take it off and all will be cool.

Then fit the new cassette and chain in the spring. Use it as an excuse at the same time to change all inners and outers, grease everything up and make it, as they say in my part of Peckham, pukka mint sweet sorted.

Don't worry too much about teh front chain rings - unless you're a real jeff bag you'll get squillions of miles out of them.

I must admit to running chains and cassettes until they are really jazzed then changing them all over at once - not the way to do it by the book but they last a good few thousand miles of battering to pieces use and so long as you keep an eye on the internet deals cost nothing to replace as a whole. KMC chains are dirt cheap and very good anyway, so once you start piling on discount codes and special deals then they are a bargain.

andyeb

I've had a bog standard KMC chain do 5000 miles before it wore past .5% (as per Park Tools wear checker). But then I generally spin easy gears at 100-110 RPM. Your mileage may, quite literally, vary.

Graham James Le Maitre

I ride about five thousand road miles a year in all different types of weather. I have very rarely changed a cassette but got through loads of chains. I use Rolhoff chain checker and as soon as it indicates to change the chain then do so, it will save you a fortune. Many bike shops will say that you have to change cassette and chain at the same time but generally that is rubbish. Chainrings seem to last for ever but cassettes work harder because they are a smaller size with more metal to metal contact.