Cutting skewers to length

ferritic
ferritic Posts: 120
edited December 2012 in Workshop
I am after a a set of DT Swiss skewers and have dropped on rear mtb skewers (135mm) at a great price.

Is there any reason why these cannot be cut to length and re-threaded to fit a road bike set up?
They have steel axles so I don't forsee an issue with cutting the extended thread and I have acces to a precission saw etc...
Should be simple, right?

Comments

  • Yes, that is no problem... you actually don't need to rethread... just cut to length, the remaining thread will be enough
    left the forum March 2023
  • ferritic
    ferritic Posts: 120
    I will be cutting one of the skewers in order to use it in the front wheel, I guess this will need the thread extending?
    Do you have any idea, off the top of your head, of the thread type used by DT Swiss?

    Thanks for your help.
  • ferritic wrote:
    I will be cutting one of the skewers in order to use it in the front wheel, I guess this will need the thread extending?
    Do you have any idea, off the top of your head, of the thread type used by DT Swiss?

    Thanks for your help.

    Aah, that's different... why don't you just get a front one?
    Anyway, yes, it is doable, you need to rethread and the thread is standard for all manufacturers, right not I can't remember the TPI, but you can measure them
    left the forum March 2023
  • ferritic
    ferritic Posts: 120
    Thanks Ugo,

    The reason I didn't get the front is that they weren't available and the road skewer sets didn't have 83% off.

    Cheers,

    have a great New Year!
  • DON'T cut ,you need stocks (small die holders) the correct dies that are the correct pitch- thread angle- threads per inch or mm. - cutting compound & most important the ability to keep the stocks ( which hold the dies) square to the skewer rod.After a lifetime in engineering I know this is best performed on the correct machine, lathe- capstan, done by hand the results are always vastly inferior, the smaller the rod the poorer the thread cut.
  • migrantwing
    migrantwing Posts: 385
    edited December 2012
    I bought some Ultegra QR skewers a while ago (£20 brand new from Fleabay :)) for my Easton wheels as the QR's that came with the Easton's are open cam and I wanted closed cam QR's. The problem is that the Ultegra QR's have a different lever profile to the stock Easton QR's, so I can't position my rear QR between the seatstay and chainstay as is my preference. I bought some cheaper, bog standard Shimano QR's, but didn't realise they were MTB skewers. I use these on my road bike now and run the lever parallel to the chainstay. The 5mm difference in length makes no odds once the nut is screwed on. There is no protrusion past the nut, in my case. I wouldn't bother cutting it, if I were you.

    Ugo has answered a similar question somewhere else on these forums :)

    viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=12893036&hilit=qr
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  • As an afterthought - don't cut the front skewer - offer it up to front fork - closing it up (locked position)- measure the gap that is left- halve it- skewer in wheel - wheel in forks- fit a distance piece using the halve measurement as your guide- fit this piece on the outside of the dropouts. You could use washers as d/pieces & then when you're happy try to get something in s/steel etc. When you have sweet everlasting joy then cut off the thread that protrudes out of the skewer adjuster, as said before don't try to thread by hand.