Can I just buy a blade from B&Q to cut a carbon steerer
Hi
My new frame arrives soon. In the past I have been too paranoid about cutting a carbon fork but as I do everything on the bike myself so why hassle with a LBS for 1 job. I know the length to cut so what could go wrong...........
I'll have plenty of steerer so i can make a practice run and I've learnt a pipe cutter is a bad idea.
Any suggestions on what hacksaw blade I use, I want to avoid having to wait for a park tool special so can I just pop down to the DIY store?
Any suggestions on TPI, brand, type (ie is a blade for Ceramics good)? Should I tape the fork first and if so is this just to provide a cutting guide or should I actually cut on the tape to avoid splintering?
Any advice welcome
My new frame arrives soon. In the past I have been too paranoid about cutting a carbon fork but as I do everything on the bike myself so why hassle with a LBS for 1 job. I know the length to cut so what could go wrong...........
I'll have plenty of steerer so i can make a practice run and I've learnt a pipe cutter is a bad idea.
Any suggestions on what hacksaw blade I use, I want to avoid having to wait for a park tool special so can I just pop down to the DIY store?
Any suggestions on TPI, brand, type (ie is a blade for Ceramics good)? Should I tape the fork first and if so is this just to provide a cutting guide or should I actually cut on the tape to avoid splintering?
Any advice welcome
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Comments
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a new sharp blade with at least 32 teeth per inch.
some people with wrap the area bing cut with masking tape. they think it helps improve the finish of the cut. I dont.
Remember many makers of carbon forks say the steerer should be longer than the stem and then put an extra spacer on the top.
so check the makers info"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
If you cut it yourself wrap the cut point with bright (yellow- blue etc.) tape, the edge of the tape being where you will cut. obviously check the length& be certain /correct. Check that the tape runs around the tube without any major dips, you can measure the cut point around it's circumference from the end of the tube, this will make sure it's square. Run the h/saw gently following the tape cut point around the tube, with each rev. going a little deeper till eventually the blade goes through. Not many folk can cut a tube square, remember slowly slowly catchee monkey.0
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Why not mark up where you want the cut and take it to your LBS who will have the kit to it correctly?0
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A lot of folk use the clamp of a lock-on grip when cutting mtb bars as a guide - presumably an old stem would do the same for this?0
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owenlars wrote:Why not mark up where you want the cut and take it to your LBS who will have the kit to it correctly?
Because my working life is a pig at the moment and my LBS needs you to book in a specific date and with work I can't guarantee I will be keep to that date. Last time I went to do this I ended up having to wait a week, pain in the backside.
Plus, I like to learn how to do things. With the exception of the dark art of wheelbuilding I can do all my repairs myself so cutting a fork really can't be that difficult. By the looks of things, care and precaution is required but its not rocket science. I'll give it a go using with the help above using some of the excess steerer, and if that goes wrong then I'll defer to lbs to get it done properly.
Lifes for learning, until you are rich enough not to bother!0 -
I did this job a few weeks ago.
I got a blade from the DIY store. One with 32T per inch.
Marked the place I wanted to cut through
Secured the steer as best I could
Slowly and gently started cutting, making sure I was cutting along the mark.
A few minutes later it was all done.
Sand paper to complete the job.
Not difficult at all0 -
If you can cut a piece of wood, you can cut a piece of carbon... it is pretty much the same thing... fibres and resin... same rules applyleft the forum March 20230
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i did mine no problem. As i guide I put two jubilee clips on the seat mast and then left a gap between them where i wanted the cut and made a perfect line cant go wrong. Obvioulsy tape under the jubilee clips first to prevent scratches and only just nip them up they dont need to be tight just as a guide.0
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I use an old stem as a guide. Someone else also suggested using some old crappy spacers as your guide too. Either way, it's pish easy.
I wouldn't get too hung up on it being exactly straight neither. It is certainly recommended to put one of the thinner spacers on top of the stem anyway, so that gives you a few mm of tolerance when cutting.
Oh, and don't breathe in the dust :idea:0 -
you can buy a saw guide for £12 which clamps in a vice. as you get to the bottom of the cut turn the steerer 45 degrees, without removing the saw and finish the cut. wrap masking tape round the cutting point before you start. if it does splinter a bit after the cut then paint the area with super glue to stop it splintering any further. i have seen a fork steerer cut whilst still on the bike using this method (without a vice, just the saw guide clamped to the steerer). it was contador's bike. use a 32 pitch saw blade.Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo0 -
I'm pretty sure no one else has mentioned it, but make sure you use a face mask, the carbon dust particles are pretty nasty if you inhale them. You can also use oil/grease or possibly even water around the cut to stop the carbon dust from getting into the air.
Other than that, it's pretty straight forward and if you have a blade of at least 32tpi, carbon cuts quite nicely.
Measure twice, cut once0