new cassette - some play in sprockets

Pumpkin Positive
Pumpkin Positive Posts: 392
edited November 2012 in Workshop
I've just installed a new 10sp Ultegra 11-28 on an almost new wheel (Mavic Ksyrium Elite S). Previously I had a SRAM equivalent but have decided to move that back onto my old OEM wheel for winter use.

I've tightened up the lock ring as much as I dare (must get a torque wrench!) and there is still a small amount of play in the cassette. I assumed I'd left out a spacer but I checked and they all seem to be in place.

see for yourself - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kE7v4S6OhgI&feature=plcp

Perhaps a small degree of play is OK?

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,321
    Looks like you need the 1 mm spacer at the back of the largest sprocket... should be included in the cassette

    Play is not OK
    left the forum March 2023
  • Pumpkin Positive
    Pumpkin Positive Posts: 392
    That's what I thought too. But i checked and it's in place. I'm wodering whether I might have got the old spacer from the back of the SRAM cassette muddled for the Shimano spacer?

    I'll check again.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    how many spacers have you fitted? there should be two.

    the hub spacer and the cassette spacer, Sram do not need a cassette spacer but you would have had the mavic hub spacer fitted.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    nicklouse wrote:
    how many spacers have you fitted? there should be two.

    the hub spacer and the cassette spacer, Sram do not need a cassette spacer but you would have had the mavic hub spacer fitted.

    Some Mavic wheels (including the Elites) come with a spacer. You are almost certainly missing this. I had some Elites which had the mavic spacer plus the spacer that came with the shimano cassette. I'm pretty sure my Aksiums have the same spacer too.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    So to clarify the other posts - with Mavic wheels you need the mavic spacer AND the shimano spacer. Without both it will not fit correctly.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • Pumpkin Positive
    Pumpkin Positive Posts: 392
    That seems to be the issue. Now where did I put that spacer?

    Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.
  • macerello
    macerello Posts: 57
    I fitted a new 11 - 28 to my Aksiums. It came with a spacer which I fitted in place of the original, but like you, I ended up with some play in the cassette. I refitted the new cassette with the original spacer and solved the problem. I didn't use both old and new spacers together but would be interested to hear if that is the recommended method. My current set up works well with no shifting problems.
  • rrsodl
    rrsodl Posts: 486
    The Mavic spacer is 1.7mm - that might make a difference.
  • idontneedthis
    idontneedthis Posts: 47
    Please bear with a novice in this field!

    I have 2 cassettes - ultegra/dura ace - I want to fit onto an elite wheel. What and where do I put spacers?

    Ive tried to enter spacers through the block to leave enough room for the chain while shifting?

    Does this make sense?
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    IDONTNEEDTHIS wrote:
    Please bear with a novice in this field!

    I have 2 cassettes - ultegra/dura ace - I want to fit onto an elite wheel. What and where do I put spacers?

    Ive tried to enter spacers through the block to leave enough room for the chain while shifting?

    Does this make sense?

    Spacers fo cassettes come in 2 forms.

    1. The plastic ones that are stamped with the speed (e.g 10s) and are designed to go between certain individual cogs to ensure the stack is equally spaced between each cog from start to finish. You do not need one betewen every cog as some have a permanent spacer as part of the cog already (generally where they are in a set of two or more).

    2. Metal spacers that are sometines needed to make a cassette fit the freehub. These are put on before any of the cassette. This is required to make sure there is no play in the cassette when the lockring is tightened. This thread has been about this type so far.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    smidsy wrote:
    IDONTNEEDTHIS wrote:
    Please bear with a novice in this field!

    I have 2 cassettes - ultegra/dura ace - I want to fit onto an elite wheel. What and where do I put spacers?

    Ive tried to enter spacers through the block to leave enough room for the chain while shifting?

    Does this make sense?

    Spacers fo cassettes come in 2 forms.

    1. The plastic ones that are stamped with the speed (e.g 10s) and are designed to go between certain individual cogs to ensure the stack is equally spaced between each cog from start to finish. You do not need one betewen every cog as some have a permanent spacer as part of the cog already (generally where they are in a set of two or more).

    2. Metal spacers that are sometines needed to make a cassette fit the freehub. These are put on before any of the cassette. This is required to make sure there is no play in the cassette when the lockring is tightened. This thread has been about this type so far.
    the spacers being talked about here are 1 the mavic M10 freebody spacer. which is used to reduce the free hub width to make it the same width as a shimano/sram 8/9/10 freebody. Shimano 10spd cassettes come with spacer to make the hub fit that width. (Sram and shimano MTB cassettes dont need this spacer and the Shimano tiagra cassette?

    so Shimano ultegra/dura ace 10spd cassettes will need the Mavic spacer and the shimano spacer fitting first, then the cassette as normal.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • bernithebiker
    bernithebiker Posts: 4,148
    I have a pair of Mavic Carbon Ultimates.

    I also have a small amount of play in the cassette.

    But this is a KNOWN ISSUE with Mavic rear hubs.

    Inside the freehub is a kind of plastic bushing that wears slightly (or even from new can present play), and over time gets worse.

    If you take the cassette in your fingers and rock it, you can feel it moving slightly. (My cassette is tight, and both reasr spacers are in place.

    I already had Mavic redo my rear hub once as I found this unacceptable. Some bike shops will tell you, 'oh that's what they all do, it's not a big deal'. But I disagree - there should not be any play in this area, and whilst the play is too small to pose any immediate problems, is does get worse with time, and I have seen an older wheel where the play was really quite significant - too much.

    Apparently, Mavic have redesigned some MTB rear hubs, but not the road ones yet.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Bloody French, useless at engineering!!!
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • bernithebiker
    bernithebiker Posts: 4,148
    smidsy wrote:
    Bloody French, useless at engineering!!!

    Well, maybe. Useless at customer service certainly, like most French companies (I've lived here for over 8 years).

    I love the wheels themselves - very light (1150g the pair) and strong, and reasonably aero. All carbon construction, so a bit like getting Lightweights on the cheap. But the freehub sucks.
  • idontneedthis
    idontneedthis Posts: 47
    Thank f&^% for forums and the people who help....cheers folks.

    This makes it clear to a newby!

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