Adjusting spokes on Reynolds Assault carbon

mussomusso
mussomusso Posts: 11
edited October 2012 in Workshop
Howdy

I need some advice on how to adjust the spokes on the Reynolds Assault carbon wheelset.

The spokes are adjusted directly through the rim after removing the rim tape and using a 5mm spoke socket tool.

When I try and turn the nut on the spoke the whole spoke starts to turn...how do I keep the spoke from turning?

Do I need to spray a little WD40 on the threaded part?

Thanks :wink:

Comments

  • stokey1964
    stokey1964 Posts: 454
    with one of these


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Park-Tool-BSH ... 20cbefd4d4


    Simon
  • mussomusso
    mussomusso Posts: 11
    stokey1964 wrote:
    with one of these


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Park-Tool-BSH ... 20cbefd4d4


    Simon


    The spokes are not bladed and are very thin...so that wont work :cry:
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    WD40 is a useless penetrating fluid it should be pulled from sale for being so uselss. Plus gas is a better bet.

    However the problem is likey to be alloy nipples have been used whih have seized in place. When I get this problem I remove the spoke by cutting and replace as if it seized normally they cannot be freed easily.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • mussomusso
    mussomusso Posts: 11
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    WD40 is a useless penetrating fluid it should be pulled from sale for being so uselss. Plus gas is a better bet.

    However the problem is likey to be alloy nipples have been used whih have seized in place. When I get this problem I remove the spoke by cutting and replace as if it seized normally they cannot be freed easily.

    They are not nipples but simple steel nuts on the ends of the spokes....all of them do the same thing and all the spokes turn when I use the wrench...cutting the spokes and replacing is not really a practical solution.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    It is very annoying and one of the main drawbacks of straight pull round spokes... Not sure what to advise...
    left the forum March 2023
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    If you grab the spoke with a pair of pliers and you twist them as you tighten, you might be able to un-seize them, but it's not an elegant solution and the spokes might end up damaged
    left the forum March 2023
  • mussomusso
    mussomusso Posts: 11
    tried with pliers as well...very difficult to stop spoke turning without damaging it
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    mussomusso wrote:
    tried with pliers as well...very difficult to stop spoke turning without damaging it

    I know it's a bugger!
    left the forum March 2023
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    Just a thought... have you tried a layer of rubber between the pliers and the spoke? Maybe an old inner tube cutting, something that provides a bit of grip...

    or maybe one of those otherwise completely pointless fourth hand cable pliers?
    left the forum March 2023
  • mussomusso
    mussomusso Posts: 11
    Yip...tried that route...the spoke is so thin that pliers will not get enough grip on it.

    Will ask the lbs how they do it...I admit defeat
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Well when I had the same alloy nipple sieze issue on a set of my old wheels the LBS basically said rebuild.

    Now on a set of wheels worth £100 (new) I decided not to bother.

    I know yours are not the same (worth considerably more) but the solution probaly is (i.e cut the spokes and replace).

    Just a thought ... you are using the Reynolds-specific internal spoke wrench?
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • mussomusso
    mussomusso Posts: 11
    Yes, I am using the right 3/16th spoke wrench...

    It seems that replacing the spokes that need to be adjusted is the only solution
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    I take it you did not get the 3 year replacement warranty?
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    mussomusso wrote:
    Yes, I am using the right 3/16th spoke wrench...

    It seems that replacing the spokes that need to be adjusted is the only solution

    Provided you can find them... and then you are back with the same problem once another one need readjusting... given the valuable part is the rim, you might consider rebuilding it on a different hub for J spokes... I did something similar on a rear Easton with a broken hub, which I rebuilt with a Novatec Hub for J spokes

    DSC_0121.jpg

    and it turned out to cost 120 pounds all included, for a set you are probably looking at 200 pounds... that assuming your rims do take normal internal nipples and are not drilled for some fancy Reynolds patented design nipple

    Something like these (scroll to internal brass)

    http://www.bdopcycling.com/Pillar-Nippl ... ashers.asp

    Anyway, I do this kind of jobs, that normal LBS don't even consider doing
    left the forum March 2023
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Internal Alloy Nipples I think Ugo.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,337
    smidsy wrote:
    Internal Alloy Nipples I think Ugo.

    The material doesn't matter, as long as they have a conventional rounded profile, they can be replaced with standard internal ones... These days brands go a long way to try and make their wheels as unique as possible, to make sure they can never be fixed, but only replaced with an equivalent under their extended warranty scheme program, which also acts as a loyalty card... it is kind of a self-preservation mission

    Very pathetic...
    left the forum March 2023

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