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Headset bearings

StorckSpeedStorckSpeed Posts: 291
edited October 2012 in Workshop
My headset has been getting tighter and tighter to turn recently, I regreased it all but not much difference. So I bought some new bearings from CRC. Went to fit them and although I can get the housing off the forks I can't seem to remove the housing from inside the headset tube. Is there an easy way to do this or do I need to buy bearing extractors or similar ?
There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed

Posts

  • 2Phat4Rapha2Phat4Rapha Posts: 238
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55941

    Presuming that is that it's the cups you're trying to remove.
    I may be a minority of one but that doesn't prevent me from being right.
    http://www.dalynchi.com
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    You will then need some sort of press to fit the cups. You can make your own press froma threaded bar and plate washers though. The cost of the tools makes it worth while to take this to an LBS. They should not charge any more than £15 to fit one. If it's a intergrated headset then it's even easier and should cost a bit less.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • nathancomnathancom Posts: 1,567
    Do you really need to remove the cups? Can't see that being the issue and should be fine if you just got a replacement set of bearings for the headset.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    You normally buy bearing which are in cups. Unles the OP has an intergrated headset in which the you get two bearings and and a top cap, starnut, cap and bolt.

    There is simply not enough info from the OP to determine what he has bought or what his actual problem is.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    StorckSpeed wrote:
    My headset has been getting tighter and tighter to turn recently, I regreased it all but not much difference. So I bought some new bearings from CRC. Went to fit them and although I can get the housing off the forks I can't seem to remove the housing from inside the headset tube. Is there an easy way to do this or do I need to buy bearing extractors or similar ?
    what headset do you have fitted to the frame?

    have a look at the standards on ParkTools if you dont know.

    or post up pictures showing the current headset then the headset service or removal procedure can be described or shown.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • StorckSpeedStorckSpeed Posts: 291
    Thanks for all your replies:
    It's an integrated headset, seemed a really simple job to do and have done similar jobs before using a threaded bar and a washer (bit Heath Robinson but it worked) but this headset has a taper inside it which has made my DIY job much more difficult. Didn't know about the tool but thats exactly what I need.
    Think I now understand what I need to do ie. take it to the LBS as the tool is a bit expensive for a one off job.
    There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    StorckSpeed wrote:
    Thanks for all your replies:
    It's an integrated headset, .
    then no tools are needed just pull it out with your fingers.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TwostageTwostage Posts: 987
    There's a circlip. It can be quite difficult to see.
  • The_JMLThe_JML Posts: 132
    Twostage wrote:
    There's a circlip. It can be quite difficult to see.

    not with any headsets I have used, they will pull out with your fingers of if they are greased in there use a screwdriver and wedge them out, not much force needed. You will then need a thinner flat screwdriver or even a knife to take the caps of the actual bearings. One will have a 45deg offset and the other a 36deg or 45deg offset. (take off both) Then you can change the balls.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    Twostage wrote:
    There's a circlip. It can be quite difficult to see.
    only on the cheap internal ones. not integrated.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TwostageTwostage Posts: 987
    nicklouse wrote:
    Twostage wrote:
    There's a circlip. It can be quite difficult to see.
    only on the cheap internal ones. not integrated.
    Forgot the "if", thought I'd included it.
    Should have read "if there's a circlip...".
  • on-yer-bikeon-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Sometimes the bottom one doesnt come out using fingers or a screw driver, another method has to be deployed. I thought you replaced the whole sealed bearings rather than take it apart and just replace the balls. Thats what Ive always done.
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • The_JMLThe_JML Posts: 132
    on-yer-bike wrote:
    Sometimes the bottom one doesnt come out using fingers or a screw driver, another method has to be deployed. I thought you replaced the whole sealed bearings rather than take it apart and just replace the balls. Thats what Ive always done.

    Same here, i'd buy a new headset, i'v ordered an alpine integrated 45,36deg which is the most common, just make sure you don't buy a campag one.....unless your frame is campag fit ofcourse.
  • StorckSpeedStorckSpeed Posts: 291
    Managed to do this thanks. Couldn't pull the bearings out with my hands but once I fashioned a DIY removal tool, it only needed some light tapping with a hammer to remove (A big old screwdriver with a slight bend on it, thanks for the pictures). New headset fitted really easily and I'm back to smooth steering which is a treat. Yeah.
    There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed
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