Restoration Project!

mrh1ggins
mrh1ggins Posts: 4
edited September 2012 in Workshop
Hello, Im trying to tackle a new project of restoring a bike! here's an image of the beauty I got from eBay

at the moment it needs standard new parts (tyres, tubes, cables etc) nothing too niche.

BUT! im thinking about changing it from a top tube gearing system to a shifter system, something on the lines of these:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=29060

As this is my first ever bike restoration I thought Id ask for some professional advice, so anything would be helpful, thanks!

Matthew

Comments

  • farrina
    farrina Posts: 360
    edited September 2012
    Well I am no expert ... but I would imagine that you would need a new rear/front mech and compatible block & chain.

    Not sure how old the frame is but I think the standard rear drop out width is now 130mm (used to be 126) more here http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html so there is that to consider and also the need for some cable adjuster on the down tube.

    There may also be implications with using the older chainset (I tend to replace everything when I upgrade) but others more knowledgeable than I can no doubt advise.

    Added later
    Good point by later poster about the change to rear wheel and use of cassette bloc complicating matters. Missed that one! At this rate you may only be left with the frame as original :D

    Regards

    Alan
    Regards
    Alan
  • schweiz
    schweiz Posts: 1,644
    To start off, you'll need some of these...http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sti-pai ... le_Stops... to replace the shifters on the downtube. That's the easy bit!

    How many sprockets are on the rear cassette/freewheel? If it's 6 or 7 then to move to 8/9/10 speed will mean a new rear derailleur.

    The biggest problem may be the rear hub. If it's a screw on freewheel then for 9 speed (to match the shifters you linked to) you are limited to SunRace (e.g. http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sunrace-mfe9 ... prod28322/). Otherwise it's a 8 speed freehub and some older 8 speed Sora or 2300 shifters. Even then there may be a problem with the hub size. What is the distance between the rear drop outs? for a 8/9/10 speed road hub it need to be 130 mm. (if it's 128 mm, then you can squeeze a 130 mm hub in). If 8 speed doesn't fit in, bending the frame aside, you're back to 7 speed and looking for some 7 speed STIs. At least you won't need a new derailleur!
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    mrh1ggins wrote:
    BUT! im thinking about changing it from a top tube gearing system to a shifter system,

    I'd stop thinking about that. It looks a pleasant bike so don't spoil it! Unless you have steep hills around, or are riding a lot in heavy traffic, there's no real advantage to integrated shifter/brake systems and plenty of negatives (cost, complexity, reliablity, weight, setup simplicity). The shifters alone are more expensive than the bike is probably worth.

    I cover thousands of miles on bikes with both systems. Don't get me wrong - integrated systems are nice but they aren't nice enough to be worth converting a bike that has a working down tube system.

    Enjoy it for what it is :wink:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • schweiz
    schweiz Posts: 1,644
    despite my advice of what you'd need to do, I agree with Rolf F.

    Just ride it!
  • Good lord, this sounds intensely complicated (for me anyway) thanks for your advise, perhaps it's something to consider when I'm slightly more confident with it all!

    My one problem with the gears is that when I go into a lighter gear, it slips back into a heavier one (excuse my terminology) is this a simple case of having to replace the cables? I assume the chap I bought it from didn't use it recently?

    Thank you

    Matthew
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    mrh1ggins wrote:
    My one problem with the gears is that when I go into a lighter gear, it slips back into a heavier one (excuse my terminology) is this a simple case of having to replace the cables? I assume the chap I bought it from didn't use it recently?

    The downtube shifter might not be tight enough - it works be friction but if it is loose then the lever will be dragged round by the spring in the mechanism and the gear will change - there should be a loop or screwdriver slot on the end of the shifter pivots that you can try tightening. But stripping and cleaning everything is essential too. Whether you need to actually replace the cables or not is another matter but they don't cost much.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • schweiz
    schweiz Posts: 1,644
    Are the shifters indexed (i.e. Do they click as you change gear) or friction (you 'feel' for the gear change)
  • Okay that makes a lot of sense, I was really paying attention to them tonight, and like yiunsay...they're really loose! thanks for your help, think I'll give them a good seeing to tomorrow, they must be the indexed ones because they click through the gears when I shift.

    Appreciate your time and help

    Matthew