11 Speed Front Mech Woes.

Gary Marshall
Gary Marshall Posts: 196
edited August 2012 in Workshop
Just bought Ribble Sportive Bianco with Athena 11 speed.

On the few rides I have managed i noticed that the front mech doesn't seem to allow much 'trimming' ie once it's on the big ring, one touch and its back down onto the inner ring, which means that much of the larger sprockets and big ring combos don't work, the chain grates on the front mech cage.

I've never had this problem on other 10 spd set ups, my older Chorus ergopower 10's have multiple clicks on the left hand lever so are fine to trim, the QS Veloce on my winter bike seems to have 3 clicks but allows trimming on the big ring.

Is this a problem anyone else has had?

I have tried to adjust the stops to allow greater travel over the big ring but that just sends chain over the top, cable tension is very tight i noticed.

Any hints?

Cheers.

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    You have to check the tension when in the low ring, last click... if it's still very high, then you might want to bring it down a bit... when in the small ring, you need the cable to have a bit of tension, not much and not slack.
    10 or 11 speed is irrelevant for the front part of the drivetrain
    left the forum March 2023
  • You have to check the tension when in the low ring, last click... if it's still very high, then you might want to bring it down a bit... when in the small ring, you need the cable to have a bit of tension, not much and not slack.
    10 or 11 speed is irrelevant for the front part of the drivetrain

    Thanks

    I will have a check, I was suprised how tight it was, usually I note ergopower tensions are lower than in the old days of non - index.

    I thought the 11 might be an issue as cramming more sprokets into the same space so flexing the chain more?
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    No, 8 or 11 speed is only an issue at the rear...

    Non indexed front is still the best solution, in fairness, all these indexed front shiters make no sense at all. Either a good old friction shifter or a ratchet type Ergo, but I would stay away from these indexed front
    left the forum March 2023
  • No, 8 or 11 speed is only an issue at the rear...

    Non indexed front is still the best solution, in fairness, all these indexed front shiters make no sense at all. Either a good old friction shifter or a ratchet type Ergo, but I would stay away from these indexed front

    I agree, I was just thinking Lance had it the right way with his eropower right lever and down tube left!
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    No, 8 or 11 speed is only an issue at the rear...

    Non indexed front is still the best solution, in fairness, all these indexed front shiters make no sense at all. Either a good old friction shifter or a ratchet type Ergo, but I would stay away from these indexed front

    I agree, I was just thinking Lance had it the right way with his eropower right lever and down tube left!

    I think you are confusing him with Pantani. Yes, he did use a left downtube in 1998 to keep the weight down.

    Armstrong was on Shimano, at least in the Tour de France days...
    left the forum March 2023
  • No, 8 or 11 speed is only an issue at the rear...

    Non indexed front is still the best solution, in fairness, all these indexed front shiters make no sense at all. Either a good old friction shifter or a ratchet type Ergo, but I would stay away from these indexed front

    I agree, I was just thinking Lance had it the right way with his eropower right lever and down tube left!

    I think you are confusing him with Pantani. Yes, he did use a left downtube in 1998 to keep the weight down.

    Armstrong was on Shimano, at least in the Tour de France days...

    No, I was just using ergopower as generic shifting system terminology, don't remember Pantani doing it, I thought Armstrong persisted with that set up for some years but not definitely sure.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Yes, Pantani had his Bianchi set-up like this for his Giro/Tour double in 1998 - it was copied by some American rider the following year.

    The high tension usually indicates laziness on behalf of the mechanic i.e. rather than simply setting the lower stop screw correctly, just winding-out the adjuster to 'pull' the mech into position. The fact that the mech is overshifting suggests you need to set the stop-screws correctly first.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Thanks,I will check the bottom stop, to be fair, the top stop I altered to see how much it was stopping the mech from having further movement which I thought may have alievitated the problem.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    A lot of this is to do with the introduction of Powershift ergos in 2011 (based on the the earlier 'Escape' ones that were universally hated around 2007/8).

    From 2011 (the new logo), Veloce, Centaur and Athena are Powershift. That is, the thumb button allows for one click only. The Ultrashift ergos (2011+ Chorus, Record and Super Record - and the previous new shape Veloce, Centaur and Athena levers) have the standard Campag thumb levers (5 clicks).

    Ignoring the differences with the rear shifting, and just thinking about the front mech:

    With Ultrashift, a two-chainring front has 4 mech positions - which you can access in either direction using the levers - three clicks across the range.

    With Powershift, the finger lever still does this, but the thumb button dumps the mech to the lowest position in one press. This means you can trim going up to the biggest ring, but when you're on the biggest ring you can't trim the mech in a little if it starts rubbing when you're on the larger sprockets (not unless you jump to the smallest ring first and come back up).

    So the art is to set the front mech up so there is no rubbing across the whole sprocket range when on the largest chainring (with the exception of the largest one or two sprockets when you're cross-chained and should drop a ring anyway). And save the trimming for when you're on the smaller chainring (where you can click back 'up' a notch if it's rubbing on smaller sprockets). Go to the campag website and get the year specific tech manual. If you follow the front mech setup and tuning word for word, you should hopefully get something near to it.
  • Thanks, I have the manual, this is what i was interested in, whether trimming was possible or not, as from my own experience, (now i think about it, across 5 different ergopower set ups over the years) it was usually fine but these levers seem to be different to anything i have used in the past in terms of adjustment.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,301
    Me asks what is powerful about power shift... :?
    left the forum March 2023
  • Exactly, it worked fine before but it's no doubt to make a point of differentiation between the top end and lower ranges. I notice there is now power torque and ultra torque cranks too when originally they were all ultra torque.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I have the same thing with my 2011 veloce shifters. One click and down to the bottom ring. It is why I want to buy older 10 speed shifters.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • I had a quick look at it last night, by relaxing the cable tension and adjusting the stops so there's just enough movement to get it on the big ring, it works a lot better. Not perfect but it's an improvement.

    Thanks for the tips.