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Velocity A23 rear wheel build problem

surfgodsurfgod Posts: 97
edited August 2012 in Workshop
After test riding a friends hed ardennes wheels, I was became convinced of the many benefits of riding wider clincher rims. So being a frugal sort of chap, I reckoned I could build decent set with some Velocity A23 rims and Hope Pro 3 hubs.


The main problem seems to be insufficent Non driveside spoke tension on the rear wheel, despite having nice high driveside spoke tension..

As you can see in the photo, velocity spoke holes are offset left and and right when viewed from above, while they seem to exit the rim dead centre. I am using the spoke holes offset twords to the left brake track for the left hub flange, and the spokeholes offset twords the right braketrack, for the right hub flange....

I'm using 290mm spokes driveside and 292 NON driveside.....32 hole 3 cross spoke pattern

SkodaOctaviaHeaterCoreRemoval015.jpg


I have built lots of pretty good wheels over the years, and tend use mavic rims with shimano or campag hubs. Velocity isn't a brand I'm familiar with

Any advise would be greatly appreciated....SD...

Posts

  • ugo.santaluciaugo.santalucia Posts: 26,443
    It is he other way round, to have a good angle, but it does not matter in terms of tension. I normally build them with Bitex hubs and get around 550 N on the left for 1200 N on the right. This Is typically enough... You can use prolock nipples or a thread lock compound if you are worried of them coming loose
  • ride_wheneverride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    As above, you've got the rim the wrong way round, although it doesn't really matter. The holes are offset to make the wheel easier to turn.

    Personally I'd just add more tension to all the spokes until the tension on the NDS is high enough for your liking. Alternatively you can do my other favourite method which is to evenly tension the wheel until the rim starts to deform and at that point, back it off a little for even tension. This allows for the maximum possible spoke tension.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Well most wheel building guides suggest the left hand offset holes for the left hand flange and visa versa. Doing it the other way would have spokes crossing the centre line oif the rim and that seems wrong.
    http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles ... /index.htm
    http://thebiketube.com/wheel-building/l ... ycle-wheel

    I was also taught this way so I consider it "right". I have never tried lacing the other way to know if a problem would occur. However raisng the spoke tension is the only way of solving your NDS problem. The flange to centre distances set the tension balance. Rim ERD has little effect unless comparing a 88mm deep rim to the A23.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • ugo.santaluciaugo.santalucia Posts: 26,443
    Well most wheel building guides suggest the left hand offset holes for the left hand flange and visa versa. Doing it the other way would have spokes crossing the centre line oif the rim and that seems wrong.
    http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles ... /index.htm
    http://thebiketube.com/wheel-building/l ... ycle-wheel

    I was also taught this way so I consider it "right". I have never tried lacing the other way to know if a problem would occur. However raisng the spoke tension is the only way of solving your NDS problem. The flange to centre distances set the tension balance. Rim ERD has little effect unless comparing a 88mm deep rim to the A23.

    It is not the hole offset. Only the holes on the outside of the rim are offset in the velocity, to allow for a nipple driver a better reach... It has no eyelets. therefore left outer holes are laced to the right side... If you do it the other way round you have no purchase to wind/unwind the nipple
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