couple of issues with avid juicy brakes

crispy1980
crispy1980 Posts: 310
edited July 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
hi all, i have these on my new ( second hand ) specialized xc pro ( 2009 ) . the stopping power is awesome but at the moment there are a couple of probs. first up, the rear brakes catchres all the while. seems to be be catching all the way round as if the brakes are always slightly on? second, the lever is a bit floppy for the first few mil of its action? i would guess the second to be a bleed required?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Centre the caliper.

    Which brakes are they. Juicy?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    they are avid juicy 4. did think of centering the caliper as i had to do this on my gt, but both pads seem to be too close to the disk?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Remove wheel, push in travel spacer hard to spread pads slightly, refit wheel, job done!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    Not sure what a travel spacer is myself... I use a flat head screwdriver and 'twist' it (don't 'prise') to re-set the pistons.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Avids all come with a travel spacer (for insertion when wheel is out), it is nicely shaped to spread the pads without risking damage.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    trouble is bike is second hand soim guessing the travel spacer is long gone. ill have to try with the screwdriver.
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    It will do a little damage to the pads, but won't affect braking performance. People used to suggest tyre levers but I don't know of a single lever which will fit between the pads. When you reinsert the wheel and pump the brake lever, the pistons should centre themselves leaving a slight gap from the rotor.
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    have tried the above but not much better. one piston is sitting right in and one out. the one siting in does move out when braking, so its not stuck. the other one will push in with a fair amount of force, but seems to slowly creep out again. i have adjusted the lie of the caliper and its a bit better but still catches. i have the horrible feeling that they may need stripping down?
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    ps the rotor is also a little bent which isnt helping
  • oxocube1
    oxocube1 Posts: 651
    crispy1980 wrote:
    ps the rotor is also a little bent which isnt helping

    This is the reason for one piston being pushed a long way in and the other out. When the disc first buckled it would have entered the caliper rubbing against one pad pushing it slowly inwards overtime. To compensate, the other piston would have move more outwards when the brake lever was pulled.

    You need to straighten the disc before trying to set the pads/pistons because anything you do will just be undone eventually by the buckled disc. I always just use an adjustable spanner and bend the disc where it is buckled against the buckle. Start off with more force and gradually less as the buckle straightens out and just fine tune it with smaller tweaks.

    There's a vid here that gives you a rough idea: http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/artic ... tor-34369/

    Once that is sorted, you can get to adjusting the caliper.
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    the lad i bought it off says the disc is sprung metal? meaning it cant be striaghtened? not sure about this, i straightened the disc on my gt ok?
  • EH_Rob
    EH_Rob Posts: 1,134
    Straighten as above or buy a new one off superstar if it doesn't work out. They're not expensive to replace.