shimano deore crankset and front deraileur

insaino86
insaino86 Posts: 32
edited July 2012 in MTB workshop & tech
I have just changed my stock suntour crank to a deore crankset. swapped the cranks no problem. I then tried to adjust the deraileur to suit. (it was adjusted offline before hand due to a bent middle chain ring). But now i cannot set the high limit accross far enough to not rub the cage? The screw will fall out in my hand before the cage is far enough accross.

the crankset came with 3 spacer 1 installed on non drive side and 2 installed on drive side as per the instructions for 68mm bb. my initial thoughts would be to remove one spacer on the drive side, but i am then worried about the low limit?

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong before i remove a bb again for no reason?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    will the cage move out far enough by hand?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Horton
    Horton Posts: 327
    and are you sure you've pushed the drive side crank through the BB as far as it will go?
  • crispy1980
    crispy1980 Posts: 310
    ifell foul to possibly the same thing. have you checked that the crank lenght is matched to the chainset? i didnt realise this and i ended up with the incorrect match. basically, the front mech would not reach far enough out to get the chain onto the outer ring
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Chainset width isn't usually an issue with HT2 but with sets with a separate axle and missmatching the 2.

    Unless it's a 73mm BB and now has too many spacers!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • hairy_boy
    hairy_boy Posts: 345
    nicklouse wrote:
    will the cage move out far enough by hand?

    I agree with Nicklouse, try disconnecting the cable (once chain is on the big ring) and try pushing the mech out by hand (careful - the cog teeth are sharp and it hurts if your fingers slip !!!).

    If the mech cage can be manually pushed out far enough to sit right then its cable tension and not the limit screw at fault.

    If the cable tension is at fault, adjust the outer limit screw until right - then pedal to allow the mech/chain to change down onto the small ring, adjust the inner limit screw so the chain cannot fall off the inner front ring, wind in your gear cable adjuster nearly all the way in (at the trigger end of the cable), fix the cable tight at the mech end and take things from there in terms of fine/final adjustment.

    Oh, and clearly you need to allow for having the gears in the right combinations - if I am on the middle front ring and the smallest cogs on the back then my chain rubs a little on the front mech cage, letting me know I should have changed up to the large front cog already ! I assume you aren't running the large cog front and large cogs back as that would cause some rubbing of the chain on the front mech cage.

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